This has been one of the most exciting, lengthy, and eye-popping trips Terri and I have taken. There will be quite a bit we'll take back home with us from this one. Here are some of the lighter and maybe some deeper thoughts on the trip:
1. As far as we can tell, Charmin (or even 2 ply toilet paper) does not exist in Africa. Find a way to import it, and you'll be a millionaire.
2. The food in the places we visited was largely western. We had to go out of our way to not have a cheeseburger and fries. Although we did score some amazing feasts, the S. African Restaurants cater largely to tourists.
3. Speaking of cheeseburgers... McDonald's? Scarily similar in taste to the US. I don't know how they do it. KFC? Much, much worse. And every town that has more than 100 people and 3 goats appears to have a KFC. I think we saw 3 McDonald's, which is quite rare.
4. Wildlife: I had no clue we would see the variety and volume of animals that we did in Kruger Park. It was like being a visitor in God's Zoo. Outstanding.
5. Crime: Yes, South Africa is as scary as we'd been warned. We feel lucky that we came away unscathed. No one at all in our travel group had an incident, and that was largely due to traveling in numbers and very good guidance from our hosts and guides. However, living in S. Africa would be another story. Our guide (Mart) has had her home robbed 3 times, and that is WITH security alarms, 2 guard dogs, electric fence, and barbed wire fence. Eugene and Laura put it to us this way: The don't know anyone who hasn't at one time been robbed or mugged. It's just a part of life in South Africa. I know I couldn't handle it, but the locals appear to have national pride similar to ours (right along with mocking of the president).
6. Racism: Yes, apartheid ended in 1994. Things are better than the prior 300 years of apartheid. But that depends on who you ask. There are MANY people who would prefer to see it right back where it was. Like the U.S., South Africa is a melting pot. It's primarily made up of 3 groups.
The Afrikaans (descendents of the Dutch settlers), the blacks, and the coloreds (including the Indian and the tribal people). They appear more of a mix, but are their own distinct group. We've learned that obviously, the whites and blacks have issues in South Africa. Much worse issues than in the U.S.(in my opinion). I can say that we were treated quite well by everyone we met. However, when watching the news, reading the paper, and talking to locals, I got the feeling that things were largely unsettled when it came to racial relations.
7. Traveling to Africa. Go once. Take 3 or 4 weeks. Do it all. I don't think I could handle the flight again. From Seattle, South Africa actually is the furthest spot on the planet to reach by plane.
8. Economy: Once again, Terri and I have found a spot in the world where the US$ is strong. Even in touristy areas with inflated prices, activities and food was cheap. In the trendiest spot in the country (Cape Town waterfront), 2 filet mignon dinners, a bottle of wine, and all the fixings: $50 US. Most of our big meals were closer to $5-$10 each, including wine.
9. Cape Town is the prettiest city on the planet. With the good weather we had, I can't even think of a close 2nd place.
10. After countless hours of watching cricket at bedtime in Africa, I'll never understand what the hell they're trying to do.
11. Yes. I'll admit it. Rugby players are far more savage than NFL football players. No pads, and just as brutal. Broken leg? There are no medical carts driving onto the pitch. Carry the fool off the field NOW!
12. Terri and I are masters at clicking the "X" when saying the word Xhosa. We practice every day.
13. In the words of an unknown South African, "South Africa Isn't for Sissies." For sure.
Monday, March 21, 2011
South Africa - Day 21 - April 30, 2008
Worst part of traveling to Africa? Sitting on your butt for incredible amounts of time. We had a VERY long drive from Phalabora to our plane in Johannesburg today. Although our plane left at 6 PM. We left around 9 for about a 6 hour drive south. Crossing a mountain range at speeds no van should ever attempt, we miraculously made it to the flatlands. Then we could really fly. I tried to go to sleep in fear of the excessive speeds our hosts were traveling at, approaching 100 mph at times and rarely dipping below 90. With Eugene's gun properly secured under his leg at all times, I wasn't sure if I was trying to catch a plane or outrun the police. The police weren't sure either, which is probably why they pulled us over. We'd been warned about speed traps in Africa, and they are much more prevalent then in the US. We were clocked doing 90 in a 60, and the following chain of events in the US would land us nothing short of jail.
In South Africa, it's a given that you bribe a cop to not get a speeding ticket. Basically, put a nice little gesture under your license when you hand it to the cop, have a nice little chat, and you're on your way. Neither Eugene nor Laura had any cash, and the cop was wanting to find out the Carlson's story in the back seat. After a friendly chat with us, the agent of the law described how he and his buddy would like to have a "very nice lunch today." He wondered what it'd cost. Eugene belted out, "30 Rand," and Laura, "50 Rand!" Nope, he wanted 100 Rand ($13 US). Having a nice stack of 100's in my travel wallet, the police enjoyed a milkshake on us, and we were on our way. Simple as that. Eugene and Laura were angry beyond words that I won't type here. I thought it was interesting to say the least, and unreasonably cheap to pay off a cop in South Africa.
Anyway, we peeled ourselves out of the back seats, said our good-byes, and stumbled into Johannesburg International. If ever there was a long distance trip to be happy about, it was this one: Upgrade to Business class.
The flight home was much easier on us: Jo'Burg-->Dakar, Senegal-->Atlanta-->Seattle. Door-to-door: 31 hours, 17 minutes.
In South Africa, it's a given that you bribe a cop to not get a speeding ticket. Basically, put a nice little gesture under your license when you hand it to the cop, have a nice little chat, and you're on your way. Neither Eugene nor Laura had any cash, and the cop was wanting to find out the Carlson's story in the back seat. After a friendly chat with us, the agent of the law described how he and his buddy would like to have a "very nice lunch today." He wondered what it'd cost. Eugene belted out, "30 Rand," and Laura, "50 Rand!" Nope, he wanted 100 Rand ($13 US). Having a nice stack of 100's in my travel wallet, the police enjoyed a milkshake on us, and we were on our way. Simple as that. Eugene and Laura were angry beyond words that I won't type here. I thought it was interesting to say the least, and unreasonably cheap to pay off a cop in South Africa.
Anyway, we peeled ourselves out of the back seats, said our good-byes, and stumbled into Johannesburg International. If ever there was a long distance trip to be happy about, it was this one: Upgrade to Business class.
The flight home was much easier on us: Jo'Burg-->Dakar, Senegal-->Atlanta-->Seattle. Door-to-door: 31 hours, 17 minutes.
South Africa - Day 20- April 29, 2008
Today was our last day in the park, and by adding lions to our list of animals seen, we were lacking just the leopard to complete the "Big 5." It was our mission today to spot a leopard, no matter how far away in a tree. Given that we had a very long distance to tonight's hotel (north part of park only miles from Mozambique and Zimbabwe), we decided to start at 6am and hopefully spot a leopard coming in after a night's hunt. This strategy paid up immediately! Within 5 minutes of leaving camp, there were about 8 cars blocking the road. We patiently pulled up, knowing we had a cat of some type. Before we knew it, a spotted leopard walked right by our car, and just like that, disappeared into the bush. For all of us, it was a highlight of the trip. Of all the animals we've seen, it was by far the prettiest and most graceful. And quite rare to see when in Kruger Park.
At this point, we didn't really care what we saw. But the list was rather prolific today.
Birds: Hornbill, African Eagles, vultures, guinea fowl
Antelope: Impala, Waterbuck, wildabeest, duiker, steenbock, kudu
Other animals: Leopard, Jackal, Giraffe, monkey, wild dogs, warthogs, zebra (Disco Donkeys, as Eugene likes to call them), elephants, chamelion, crocodiles, baboons
The other highlight of the day was seeing wild dogs. Spotted like a hyena (but taller), wild dogs are some of the rarest animals on the planet. There are only 4 places in the world that have wild dogs, and Kruger is home to only 300. We were lucky enough to come across 10 that were crossing the road and apparently looking for trouble.
The other highlight (for Terri) was when I spot a window bock. I should start by telling you that "bock" is Afrikaans for any type of deer or antelope. As I spotted a giraffe I was obviously quite fond of, I immediately lunged to put my head and camera out the window to secure the perfect shot. One problem. Window was up. With a force that should have shattered a pane glass window, the sound of my cranium bouncing off the tinted glass was music to Terri's, Eugene's, and Laura's ears. All I could exclaim was, "Uhhh... Window Bock." And yes. I got the shot.
Tonight's housing was a fantastic B+B in the town of Phalabora. Owned and operated by Honey, this place was the nicest room we've had on the trip yet. Again with grass ceilings and roofs, our room was modernized to even US standards, with a wall mounted TV/DVD Player, fancy artwork, stone floors, and a canopy bed fully equipped with mosquito nets. Dinner was filet at "The Buffalo" and our last moments in the Kruger were spent watching the sun drop over the bush. We couldn't ask for more out of Kruger and our capable guides.
At this point, we didn't really care what we saw. But the list was rather prolific today.
Birds: Hornbill, African Eagles, vultures, guinea fowl
Antelope: Impala, Waterbuck, wildabeest, duiker, steenbock, kudu
Other animals: Leopard, Jackal, Giraffe, monkey, wild dogs, warthogs, zebra (Disco Donkeys, as Eugene likes to call them), elephants, chamelion, crocodiles, baboons
The other highlight of the day was seeing wild dogs. Spotted like a hyena (but taller), wild dogs are some of the rarest animals on the planet. There are only 4 places in the world that have wild dogs, and Kruger is home to only 300. We were lucky enough to come across 10 that were crossing the road and apparently looking for trouble.
The other highlight (for Terri) was when I spot a window bock. I should start by telling you that "bock" is Afrikaans for any type of deer or antelope. As I spotted a giraffe I was obviously quite fond of, I immediately lunged to put my head and camera out the window to secure the perfect shot. One problem. Window was up. With a force that should have shattered a pane glass window, the sound of my cranium bouncing off the tinted glass was music to Terri's, Eugene's, and Laura's ears. All I could exclaim was, "Uhhh... Window Bock." And yes. I got the shot.
Tonight's housing was a fantastic B+B in the town of Phalabora. Owned and operated by Honey, this place was the nicest room we've had on the trip yet. Again with grass ceilings and roofs, our room was modernized to even US standards, with a wall mounted TV/DVD Player, fancy artwork, stone floors, and a canopy bed fully equipped with mosquito nets. Dinner was filet at "The Buffalo" and our last moments in the Kruger were spent watching the sun drop over the bush. We couldn't ask for more out of Kruger and our capable guides.
South Africa - Day 19 - April 28, 2008
Today was, as Eugene would say, "Another horrible day in the Kruger..." Today was equally a fantastic viewing day. It started with the sounds of vervet monkeys on our patio, stealing the remainders of last night's braai. Today we started with a full day of driving the park.
Birds: Scops Owl, African Fish Eagle, Southern Ground Hornbill, Stork, Egret, Magpie Shrike, Lilac Breasted Roller, Kingfisher, Spur Fowl, Hornbill, and Saddle-Billed Stork
Antelope: Impala (sparring--horns smashing together sounded like a shotgun blast), wildabeest
Other game: Giraffe, Elephant, 2 Lions, Cheetah, monkeys, zebra, 20 Hippos together, warthog, Crocodiles
For the night drive, we all piled into an open-aired jeep and were led along the roads with spotlights for viewing. It was quite a thrill, as we got close up to several BIG cats and some other nightlife we wouldn't have seen. In all, we saw warthog, impala, giraffe, kudu, kingfisher, crocodiles, zebra, hippos, bushbuck, small-spotted genet (cat), 8 Lions (2 cubs), impala, baboons, water buffalo. The highlight was definitely getting within a few feet of the lions laid out on the paved roads. They wouldn't budge for anything, as they looked life a meat-eating version housecats, laying claim to a sunny spot on the carpet. Tonight's night-drive was not something we'll soon forget.
Birds: Scops Owl, African Fish Eagle, Southern Ground Hornbill, Stork, Egret, Magpie Shrike, Lilac Breasted Roller, Kingfisher, Spur Fowl, Hornbill, and Saddle-Billed Stork
Antelope: Impala (sparring--horns smashing together sounded like a shotgun blast), wildabeest
Other game: Giraffe, Elephant, 2 Lions, Cheetah, monkeys, zebra, 20 Hippos together, warthog, Crocodiles
For the night drive, we all piled into an open-aired jeep and were led along the roads with spotlights for viewing. It was quite a thrill, as we got close up to several BIG cats and some other nightlife we wouldn't have seen. In all, we saw warthog, impala, giraffe, kudu, kingfisher, crocodiles, zebra, hippos, bushbuck, small-spotted genet (cat), 8 Lions (2 cubs), impala, baboons, water buffalo. The highlight was definitely getting within a few feet of the lions laid out on the paved roads. They wouldn't budge for anything, as they looked life a meat-eating version housecats, laying claim to a sunny spot on the carpet. Tonight's night-drive was not something we'll soon forget.
South Africa - Day 18 - April 27, 2008
Today we got up early and spent nearly the entire day huting for animals. It was a great success, with some close-up views.
Birds: Blue Sterling, Hornbill, African Eagle, Saddle-Billed Stork (rare)
Antelope: Impala, Wildabeest, Kudu
Other game: 30+ elephants in a herd, Rhino, Zebra, Mating Giraffe, Warthog, Vervet Monkeys
The big highlight of today was the elephants. I can now say I was charged by an elephant in the bush and lived to tell the story. What can be quite scary in the Kruger is when large game such as elephants cross the road. You can be literally blocked in by the herd, with nowhere to go. The park actually mandates you stay 50 meters away. If your car gets between a momma and a baby elephant, you better hope you have real good car insurance. If the elephants come out of the thick bush and surround you, there's nothing you can do. Which is what happened today. At first we thought we had a herd of 10 elephants or so, which was fantastic in itself. As we were definately too close (about 20 yards away), they started crossing the road. It was around this time we realized it wasn't 10 elephants we were watching; it's more like 30. Some of them ambled literally feet from the front bumper of our van. All four of us were watching a big bull male elephant just about 20 feet from us---Too close!!! He was roaring, waving his ears, and on occasion putting his head down to mock charge. As this was the the largest elephant I've ever laid eyes on, I will honestly say it was scary. However, what was scarier was his buddy, another male that came charging out of the bush, straight at our car (actually, straight at ME!). I froze and all I could let out was a soft, "Whoa." That was the wrong thing to say, as Eugene hadn't seen it in time and instead of punching the gas, he slammed the breaked when I said, "Whoa." Long story short, the elephant was no further than 10 feet from us, at a full charge, head coming down to smash our van to bits... I'm not exaggerating at all here. One more second in that spot, and this story would have ended much differently. Although elephants top speed is around 30 mph, sharp turns are not their forte. So Eugene punched it at the literal last second, and we all agreed we'd prefer not to see another elephant at that close range again...
Camp tonight was in Berg-en-Dal, a camp with larger 2 room huts. We shared a nice place with an outside deck and grilling area. South African's don't grill or bbq, they "Braai." And that's exactly what we did. We got some steak, chicken, pork, and African sausage, Braai rub, fire, and Eugene worked his magic along with a full bar of drinks. I went to bed tonight wondering if we ate too much or drink too much. It was both. You have to eat a healty diet to stare down a charging elephant...
Birds: Blue Sterling, Hornbill, African Eagle, Saddle-Billed Stork (rare)
Antelope: Impala, Wildabeest, Kudu
Other game: 30+ elephants in a herd, Rhino, Zebra, Mating Giraffe, Warthog, Vervet Monkeys
The big highlight of today was the elephants. I can now say I was charged by an elephant in the bush and lived to tell the story. What can be quite scary in the Kruger is when large game such as elephants cross the road. You can be literally blocked in by the herd, with nowhere to go. The park actually mandates you stay 50 meters away. If your car gets between a momma and a baby elephant, you better hope you have real good car insurance. If the elephants come out of the thick bush and surround you, there's nothing you can do. Which is what happened today. At first we thought we had a herd of 10 elephants or so, which was fantastic in itself. As we were definately too close (about 20 yards away), they started crossing the road. It was around this time we realized it wasn't 10 elephants we were watching; it's more like 30. Some of them ambled literally feet from the front bumper of our van. All four of us were watching a big bull male elephant just about 20 feet from us---Too close!!! He was roaring, waving his ears, and on occasion putting his head down to mock charge. As this was the the largest elephant I've ever laid eyes on, I will honestly say it was scary. However, what was scarier was his buddy, another male that came charging out of the bush, straight at our car (actually, straight at ME!). I froze and all I could let out was a soft, "Whoa." That was the wrong thing to say, as Eugene hadn't seen it in time and instead of punching the gas, he slammed the breaked when I said, "Whoa." Long story short, the elephant was no further than 10 feet from us, at a full charge, head coming down to smash our van to bits... I'm not exaggerating at all here. One more second in that spot, and this story would have ended much differently. Although elephants top speed is around 30 mph, sharp turns are not their forte. So Eugene punched it at the literal last second, and we all agreed we'd prefer not to see another elephant at that close range again...
Camp tonight was in Berg-en-Dal, a camp with larger 2 room huts. We shared a nice place with an outside deck and grilling area. South African's don't grill or bbq, they "Braai." And that's exactly what we did. We got some steak, chicken, pork, and African sausage, Braai rub, fire, and Eugene worked his magic along with a full bar of drinks. I went to bed tonight wondering if we ate too much or drink too much. It was both. You have to eat a healty diet to stare down a charging elephant...
South Africa - Day 17 - April 26, 2008
After a VERY early alarm clock chimed, we were off to the airport to experience the crown jewel of South Africa--Kruger National Park. Situated in the northeast corner of the country, Kruger borders Mozambique and is absolutely immense. The territory the animals have to roam is incredibly vast and I would say the size of some small US states.
We have heard numerous stories regarding safety in Johannesburg and were not too keen on spending 1 minute on our own in this city. We were quite fortunate in respect that some friends of my Dad were available and willing to play "tour guide" for us for 5 days in the park. We were picked up by Eugene Tondolo and his girlfriend Laura, and after briefly meeting with Fritz and Neil (Eugene's bosses) at the airport, it was off to Kruger with a loaded gun in the front seat and beers in hand. The rules are a bit different in South Africa, Jo'Burg especially. Crime is not just a scary inconvenience. It's literally a daily aspect of life. Anyway, I'm here to tell you about the animals, so here goes.
After a 5 mile drive to the park at terminal speed, we hit the gates of "The Kruger," as the locals like to call it. Kruger National is home to the Big 5, the most dangerous and elusive hunting animals of Africa. They include, the rhino, elephant, water buffalo, lion, and leopard. To see 3 or more of these animals on a given visit to Kruger is special. To see them all is actually quite rare. Kruger has the same rules as most national parks you'd visit. Don't feed the animals, no littering, all that. The major difference is that under any circumstances, you ARE NOT to get out of your car. There are documented cases of gentlemen using the "bush" toilets or trying to get a better photo, only for a big cat to get a nice morsel of food. These animals are wild and we are on their home turf. In particular, hippos, elephants, buffalo, rhinos, and big cats will take a human out--no problem. If one comes after you, you'd better hope you're near a REAL big tree and that your full time job is a gymnast. The other rule is that you must be into camp (barbed wire and electric fenced area) before 6pm, when those big cats get out and fancy a meal...
Once hitting the park, we had just a couple hours to drive the paved and sometimes dirt roads to see what was out there. It didn't take long before we spotted impala. This is the "cow" of Kruger Park, with literally 250,000 roaming the bush. By the end of the 4 day stay in Kruger, we would see one and say, "Oh. Just a stinkin' impala."
Due to the large amount of animals, I'll break what we say into 3 classes: Birds, Antelope, and Other animals.
Today we saw:
Birds: Falcon, Hornbill
Antelope: Impala, Steenbock, Kudu
Animals: 8 Rhinos, 3 Elephants, Water Buffalo, Zebra
Not bad for just a few hours work. Three of the Big 5 were seen within an hour, and to view this game in their own habitat was fascinating. No steel bars in a zoo to give you full security. Eugene had the car in drive at all times, and let me tell you, when you get 50 feet from an Africa Elephant staring at you, you REALLY watch the elephant...
Our accommodations was in Skukuzu Camp tonight, with each couple having their own grass roofed hut. Dinner was buffet, including some interesting wild game. While Terri stuck to the basics, I had kudu (toughest meat I've ever tried to cut with a butter knife), and a really nice lamb. We enjoyed our meals/beers outside, under the stars, and listening to the "nightlife" stir. This is an amazing place.
We have heard numerous stories regarding safety in Johannesburg and were not too keen on spending 1 minute on our own in this city. We were quite fortunate in respect that some friends of my Dad were available and willing to play "tour guide" for us for 5 days in the park. We were picked up by Eugene Tondolo and his girlfriend Laura, and after briefly meeting with Fritz and Neil (Eugene's bosses) at the airport, it was off to Kruger with a loaded gun in the front seat and beers in hand. The rules are a bit different in South Africa, Jo'Burg especially. Crime is not just a scary inconvenience. It's literally a daily aspect of life. Anyway, I'm here to tell you about the animals, so here goes.
After a 5 mile drive to the park at terminal speed, we hit the gates of "The Kruger," as the locals like to call it. Kruger National is home to the Big 5, the most dangerous and elusive hunting animals of Africa. They include, the rhino, elephant, water buffalo, lion, and leopard. To see 3 or more of these animals on a given visit to Kruger is special. To see them all is actually quite rare. Kruger has the same rules as most national parks you'd visit. Don't feed the animals, no littering, all that. The major difference is that under any circumstances, you ARE NOT to get out of your car. There are documented cases of gentlemen using the "bush" toilets or trying to get a better photo, only for a big cat to get a nice morsel of food. These animals are wild and we are on their home turf. In particular, hippos, elephants, buffalo, rhinos, and big cats will take a human out--no problem. If one comes after you, you'd better hope you're near a REAL big tree and that your full time job is a gymnast. The other rule is that you must be into camp (barbed wire and electric fenced area) before 6pm, when those big cats get out and fancy a meal...
Once hitting the park, we had just a couple hours to drive the paved and sometimes dirt roads to see what was out there. It didn't take long before we spotted impala. This is the "cow" of Kruger Park, with literally 250,000 roaming the bush. By the end of the 4 day stay in Kruger, we would see one and say, "Oh. Just a stinkin' impala."
Due to the large amount of animals, I'll break what we say into 3 classes: Birds, Antelope, and Other animals.
Today we saw:
Birds: Falcon, Hornbill
Antelope: Impala, Steenbock, Kudu
Animals: 8 Rhinos, 3 Elephants, Water Buffalo, Zebra
Not bad for just a few hours work. Three of the Big 5 were seen within an hour, and to view this game in their own habitat was fascinating. No steel bars in a zoo to give you full security. Eugene had the car in drive at all times, and let me tell you, when you get 50 feet from an Africa Elephant staring at you, you REALLY watch the elephant...
Our accommodations was in Skukuzu Camp tonight, with each couple having their own grass roofed hut. Dinner was buffet, including some interesting wild game. While Terri stuck to the basics, I had kudu (toughest meat I've ever tried to cut with a butter knife), and a really nice lamb. We enjoyed our meals/beers outside, under the stars, and listening to the "nightlife" stir. This is an amazing place.
South Africa - Day 16 - April 25, 2008
Our last full day in Cape Town, we completed a drive to around the south point of Africa. Actually, the "most southwest point of Africa," but meaningful nonetheless. We initially drove to Boulder Beach and checked out the penguins. This experience was unique, as approaching them within 1 meter, swimming with them, and photographing from within a couple feet are no problem at all. April appears to be nesting season, as we saw fresh eggs being incubated as well as a few newborn chicks. Very cool. Let's hope just one out of the 300 photos I took today turns out.
Onward we drove to Cape Point, boasting the spot where the Indian and Atlantic Oceans Merge. Imagine the Northern Coast of California, throw in a desert-like climate, and perhaps a few wild baboons, ostrich, penguins, rare birds, and dassies. We saw them all on our drive today. We also hit up the Cape of Good Hope, just around the corner from the Cape Point Lighthouse. Fantastic views were revealed around every corner. We also saw by far the largest beach I've ever layed eyes upon. Just HUUUUUUUUGE. And not a single person on it.
Dinner was some Mozambican steak dipped in peri-peri sauce, and then it was off to the hotel to get up for an early flight tomorrow.
Onward we drove to Cape Point, boasting the spot where the Indian and Atlantic Oceans Merge. Imagine the Northern Coast of California, throw in a desert-like climate, and perhaps a few wild baboons, ostrich, penguins, rare birds, and dassies. We saw them all on our drive today. We also hit up the Cape of Good Hope, just around the corner from the Cape Point Lighthouse. Fantastic views were revealed around every corner. We also saw by far the largest beach I've ever layed eyes upon. Just HUUUUUUUUGE. And not a single person on it.
Dinner was some Mozambican steak dipped in peri-peri sauce, and then it was off to the hotel to get up for an early flight tomorrow.
South Africa - Day 15 - April 24, 2008
Today we woke up early and hopped in the car for a day of pampering. Terri reserved 4 hours of spa treatment. I was the happy recipient of some golf treatment: 18 Holes at Steenberg Resort. Stuck in the midst of the vineyards, Steenburg is 5 Stars all the way. The golf course itself even winds itself through the grapevines. After all the non-stop travel and adventure we've had on this trip, it was wonderful to stop for a moment and punish some golf balls. I'm sure Terri would tell you the spa was just what the Dr. ordered as well. The course was rated one of the tops in the entire country, and I could see why. While it probably wouldn't register in the top 50 in the U.S., the manicured grass, wild birds, African foliage, and BOOMING neighboring mountains made this one of my most memorable rounds ever. In case you're wondering, I shot an 84 off the back tees, and think I could've cracked 80 with my sticks... Who knows, maybe I would've shot 90. I played with a couple of friendly local Cape Towners. I also learned some new golf lingo, including, "Well nudged..." when a shot was particulary effective or if a putt was made.
After a quick pizza and a drive back to the hotel, we again hit the waterfront for some shopping and to re-load on some Rands. Dinner tonight was at Biesmielah, a local spot well known for Cape Malay cuisine. A quick aside for a little history lesson: In the developing stages of South Africa, the Dutch settling farmers needed some slaves to work their fields. While the Zulu and Xhosa tribes were far from accommodating in this regard, the settlers looked elsewhere. So they shipped their slaves in from India and Malaysia. What's left today is a unique population and lots of blended folks (British, Dutch, Malay, and Indians, and of course the native Black). An additional bonus is that restaurant menus in South Africa usually will hold any combination of these ethnic foods. Cape Town has proved to be the absolute best at producing fantastic meals. Back to Biesmieallah.... As our cabbie drove us into the Muslim neighborhood (at night), Terri and I both did not want to get out of the cab. It was sketchy, to say the least. What awaited us was one of the most recommended restaurants we've seen in all our travel books. Specializing in "Cape Malay," the food awaiting us was singular in it's presentation. We've had nothing like it. Imagine a cross between African spices, Indian Curries, local flavors, and served with a smile from the proud owner. We've had some great food experiences in Africa, but this one got the most "Wows" after each new food tried.
Just one more day of adventure in Cape Town. And perhaps now is the time to buy a bigger belt. Good night.
After a quick pizza and a drive back to the hotel, we again hit the waterfront for some shopping and to re-load on some Rands. Dinner tonight was at Biesmielah, a local spot well known for Cape Malay cuisine. A quick aside for a little history lesson: In the developing stages of South Africa, the Dutch settling farmers needed some slaves to work their fields. While the Zulu and Xhosa tribes were far from accommodating in this regard, the settlers looked elsewhere. So they shipped their slaves in from India and Malaysia. What's left today is a unique population and lots of blended folks (British, Dutch, Malay, and Indians, and of course the native Black). An additional bonus is that restaurant menus in South Africa usually will hold any combination of these ethnic foods. Cape Town has proved to be the absolute best at producing fantastic meals. Back to Biesmieallah.... As our cabbie drove us into the Muslim neighborhood (at night), Terri and I both did not want to get out of the cab. It was sketchy, to say the least. What awaited us was one of the most recommended restaurants we've seen in all our travel books. Specializing in "Cape Malay," the food awaiting us was singular in it's presentation. We've had nothing like it. Imagine a cross between African spices, Indian Curries, local flavors, and served with a smile from the proud owner. We've had some great food experiences in Africa, but this one got the most "Wows" after each new food tried.
Just one more day of adventure in Cape Town. And perhaps now is the time to buy a bigger belt. Good night.
South Africa - Day 14 - April 23, 2008
After a pickup to the airport we ditched Saasveld Lodge and rented a car for some freedom along the Cape. A note on the differences of driving in South Africa vs. the U.S.:
1. Left side of the road here, and steering wheel is on the right side of the vehicle.
2. Any and all traffic laws in Africa merely are suggestions. It's a stinkin' free-for-all out there.
3. It seems half the traffic lights in Cape Town are functional. Maybe this is due to the energy loading (planned power outages do to shortage of power). So approach an intersection, take your best guess if you should blast through or regard it as a 4-way stop. There is no standard rule as far as I can tell.
4. Taxis. OK. There are "tourist" taxis, which are metered and very much safe. And there are local taxis, which are little white buses that pick up the thousands of locals literally roaming the roads. While they pay based on where they're going, these poor folks are literally crammed into these taxis. We've seen as many as 12-15 passengers crammed into a bus that should seat no more than 8. Anyway, the white bus taxis are far and away motorized renegades held to no law whatsoever. They're completely dangerous, they start and stop without warning, and I honestly think as part of their DMV inspection, all blinker and brake lights have been removed.
5. Pedestrians: I touched on this briefly, but the common person on the street cannot afford a car. So streets in many cases are basically sidewalks. Jaywalking is the norm, not the exception.
6. Carjackings: I won't go into much further detail, but driving in Africa requires you to not just notice pedestrians, but to read their body language too. That's perhaps the most nerve-wracking part, as I'm constantly leaving room between cars and planning escape routes at traffic signals. You may think I'm being paranoid, but I'm not kidding. Carjacking is very much a part of driving here.
Other than that, it's a pleasure to drive around on your own in South Africa.
After a much rushed journey to the VA Waterfront, (and my faceplant into a deceptively clean revolving door), it was off to South Africa's version of Alcatrez: Robben Island. Robben Island was used for a number of forms of separation (including a leper colony in the early 1900's). It was most recently used as a prison for political prisoners during apartheid. It's famous for being the "home" to Nelson Mandela for 20+ years, as we got a look at his tiny cell (no more than 6 x 10 feet. The most stirring part of our tour was the fact that our tour guide was Mkotze, a former political prisoner himself. Arrested for his beliefs and protests for equality, he was tried and locked at Robben Island for 7 years, Mkotze told us exactly what it was like to live during apartheid. He was actually released the day Mandela was sworn into office: April 27, 1994. Speaking of, "Freedom Day" is coming up soon, and I'm excited to be in-country to see how people celebrate. Anyway, our tour to Robben Island was not something I'll soon forget, and I wish it was a tour that was mandatory for all Americans. There are places in the world still today equally as savage as South Africa was 14 years ago, but it's jarring to meet someone who's lived it and has a story to tell.
To lighten up the rest of the day, we spent some time shopping and enjoying the SUNSHINE. It's again gorgeous, hitting 85 today. We hopped aboard a sunset sailboat cruise, draining far too much champagne and watching the sun drop into the Indian Ocean.
Dinner followed at Belthazer, touted as Cape Town's premiere steak house the last 3 years running. It did not disappoint with it's filet, and we stumbled into a cab to our hotel. Perhaps I've not mentioned it, but we booked ourselves a treat in advance at the Southern Sun Hotel. Just a bit off the waterfront, it's the poshest place we've stayed yet (athough can't even touch the views at some of our other hotels). We're talking about a shower that doesn't flood the bathroom, 2 ply toilet tissue, and functional lights in the case of energy outages (mandated 3 times per week). Even ESPN, CNN, and 12 other channels on the flatscreen TV. I don't know what I'll do without the 1980's Kung Fu movies we've been watching, but we'll figure it out.
1. Left side of the road here, and steering wheel is on the right side of the vehicle.
2. Any and all traffic laws in Africa merely are suggestions. It's a stinkin' free-for-all out there.
3. It seems half the traffic lights in Cape Town are functional. Maybe this is due to the energy loading (planned power outages do to shortage of power). So approach an intersection, take your best guess if you should blast through or regard it as a 4-way stop. There is no standard rule as far as I can tell.
4. Taxis. OK. There are "tourist" taxis, which are metered and very much safe. And there are local taxis, which are little white buses that pick up the thousands of locals literally roaming the roads. While they pay based on where they're going, these poor folks are literally crammed into these taxis. We've seen as many as 12-15 passengers crammed into a bus that should seat no more than 8. Anyway, the white bus taxis are far and away motorized renegades held to no law whatsoever. They're completely dangerous, they start and stop without warning, and I honestly think as part of their DMV inspection, all blinker and brake lights have been removed.
5. Pedestrians: I touched on this briefly, but the common person on the street cannot afford a car. So streets in many cases are basically sidewalks. Jaywalking is the norm, not the exception.
6. Carjackings: I won't go into much further detail, but driving in Africa requires you to not just notice pedestrians, but to read their body language too. That's perhaps the most nerve-wracking part, as I'm constantly leaving room between cars and planning escape routes at traffic signals. You may think I'm being paranoid, but I'm not kidding. Carjacking is very much a part of driving here.
Other than that, it's a pleasure to drive around on your own in South Africa.
After a much rushed journey to the VA Waterfront, (and my faceplant into a deceptively clean revolving door), it was off to South Africa's version of Alcatrez: Robben Island. Robben Island was used for a number of forms of separation (including a leper colony in the early 1900's). It was most recently used as a prison for political prisoners during apartheid. It's famous for being the "home" to Nelson Mandela for 20+ years, as we got a look at his tiny cell (no more than 6 x 10 feet. The most stirring part of our tour was the fact that our tour guide was Mkotze, a former political prisoner himself. Arrested for his beliefs and protests for equality, he was tried and locked at Robben Island for 7 years, Mkotze told us exactly what it was like to live during apartheid. He was actually released the day Mandela was sworn into office: April 27, 1994. Speaking of, "Freedom Day" is coming up soon, and I'm excited to be in-country to see how people celebrate. Anyway, our tour to Robben Island was not something I'll soon forget, and I wish it was a tour that was mandatory for all Americans. There are places in the world still today equally as savage as South Africa was 14 years ago, but it's jarring to meet someone who's lived it and has a story to tell.
To lighten up the rest of the day, we spent some time shopping and enjoying the SUNSHINE. It's again gorgeous, hitting 85 today. We hopped aboard a sunset sailboat cruise, draining far too much champagne and watching the sun drop into the Indian Ocean.
Dinner followed at Belthazer, touted as Cape Town's premiere steak house the last 3 years running. It did not disappoint with it's filet, and we stumbled into a cab to our hotel. Perhaps I've not mentioned it, but we booked ourselves a treat in advance at the Southern Sun Hotel. Just a bit off the waterfront, it's the poshest place we've stayed yet (athough can't even touch the views at some of our other hotels). We're talking about a shower that doesn't flood the bathroom, 2 ply toilet tissue, and functional lights in the case of energy outages (mandated 3 times per week). Even ESPN, CNN, and 12 other channels on the flatscreen TV. I don't know what I'll do without the 1980's Kung Fu movies we've been watching, but we'll figure it out.
South Africa - Day 13 - April 22, 2008
Eager to remove any memories of Stellenbosch from our databanks, we cut out of town at 6am to beat the traffic.
Today makes up for any recent disappointments. First of all, it was a GORGEOUS day. As Cape Town is about as far south in Africa as you can get, it's known for it's stormy seas and unpredictable weather. Despite being autumn, today topped out around 90 degrees and without a cloud in the sky. As we drove into town, it was easy to see why Cape Town regarded as one of the most beautiful cities in the world. Terri and I agreed, San Francisco comes close, but we've not seen a finer city when it comes to landscape. Cape Town is surrounded by the stormy blue waters of the Indian Ocean to one side. To the other, spectacular mountain formations including Table Mountain, the 12 Apostles, and Lion Head.
Our first stop of the day was at Table Mountain, where we took a rotating gondola ride to the top. After a couple hours of photographs and hiking around, it was on to the meat of the day--a hike to the top of Lion Head. From the casual oberver, this peak looks insurmountable. However, a 1.5 hour, ankle-twisting trail and boulder scramble got us to the top to some unreal views. It wasn't without much effort and sweat, as the trail required ladders and chains in the rock in the more difficult sections. Anyway, the top view delivered a 360 degree panorama of Cape Town. Both Terri and I immediately inserted Lion Head into our Top 5 Hikes, anywhere in the world. Stunning.
After a much needed nap and some relaxation, it was on to dinner. Africa Cafe was the spot, and they delivered in a big way. Africa Cafe serves a set menu, around $23 per person (very expensive in comparison to the average meal-out in this country). The draw is the set menu, in which they shell out 15 dishes, all hailing from a different part of Africa. The meats included a garlic/lime chicken, curried lamb, and Mozambican prawns. Although these were tasty, it was all the delightful side dishes that left us stuffed and incapable of walking home. Cab please!
Three more action-packed days in Cape Town to go, and then 4 days in Kruger National Park to watch the animals. If you're following this journal daily, we actually may not update until our return home. Will do my best.
Today makes up for any recent disappointments. First of all, it was a GORGEOUS day. As Cape Town is about as far south in Africa as you can get, it's known for it's stormy seas and unpredictable weather. Despite being autumn, today topped out around 90 degrees and without a cloud in the sky. As we drove into town, it was easy to see why Cape Town regarded as one of the most beautiful cities in the world. Terri and I agreed, San Francisco comes close, but we've not seen a finer city when it comes to landscape. Cape Town is surrounded by the stormy blue waters of the Indian Ocean to one side. To the other, spectacular mountain formations including Table Mountain, the 12 Apostles, and Lion Head.
Our first stop of the day was at Table Mountain, where we took a rotating gondola ride to the top. After a couple hours of photographs and hiking around, it was on to the meat of the day--a hike to the top of Lion Head. From the casual oberver, this peak looks insurmountable. However, a 1.5 hour, ankle-twisting trail and boulder scramble got us to the top to some unreal views. It wasn't without much effort and sweat, as the trail required ladders and chains in the rock in the more difficult sections. Anyway, the top view delivered a 360 degree panorama of Cape Town. Both Terri and I immediately inserted Lion Head into our Top 5 Hikes, anywhere in the world. Stunning.
After a much needed nap and some relaxation, it was on to dinner. Africa Cafe was the spot, and they delivered in a big way. Africa Cafe serves a set menu, around $23 per person (very expensive in comparison to the average meal-out in this country). The draw is the set menu, in which they shell out 15 dishes, all hailing from a different part of Africa. The meats included a garlic/lime chicken, curried lamb, and Mozambican prawns. Although these were tasty, it was all the delightful side dishes that left us stuffed and incapable of walking home. Cab please!
Three more action-packed days in Cape Town to go, and then 4 days in Kruger National Park to watch the animals. If you're following this journal daily, we actually may not update until our return home. Will do my best.
South Africa - Day 12 - April 21, 2008
I hate to say it, but today was the first day I felt disappointed in the group part of our trip. Even considering the rainy days, we got hoodwinked on this one...
Today was to be a "day of wine tasting," per our itinerary from GAP Adventures. In reality? How about 7 hours on the bus, a rushed tour of a rather terrible winery in the wine country, an extremely boring tour of Stellenbosch University (our guide's son just "happens" to be a student there- thus our tour). As it truly unfolded, we spent about 10 minutes tasting wine at the aforementioned establishment. Even my inexperienced pallate could discern how bad this stuff was. Perhaps it was the fact that they had twist-off bottles that gave it away...
As for Stellenbosch, though, it is South African wine country in an absolute picturesque natural environment. Imagine Napa with TOWERING mountains in the background. Now comes the bad part. Like many parts of South Africa, security and safety is a major issue. It seemed all the wineries and grapevines were protected with both electric fences and razor wire. Needless to say, it didn't exactly give an inviting feeling. I have been trying to refrain from "our country is better," but in this case, there's no comparison between a Napa experience and what we saw.
The rest of the day went downhill from there. We checked in to our "hotel," and obviously GAP Adventures was running out of cashflow on this part of the trip. The rooms we stayed in could only be described as partially functioning mobile home trailors. It was no larger than 10x18 feet, and we could hear every breath and footstep of the adjoining trailor housing Pascal, the friendly 6'5 German. Our humble abode was properly decorated with a plastic patio lawn table and matching plastic chairs. Not on the patio, but IN the trailor, completely stuffing any possible open space in our shack.
Our trailor-park manager was nice enough to inform us that due to the "energy loading" situation in South Africa, we indeed would be without power for several hours. As it was getting dark, we were equipped with candles and flashlights as we got ready for dinner. In my years of travel, I can only think of only one hostel in Cambodia that I would consider worse digs.
Tonights dinner was our farewell dinner to the GAP Group. We made some new friends and enjoyed traveling with most everybody. Terri had chicken pot pie, a South African favorite. I tried the S. African sampler, a nice trio of lamb curry, pot pie, and bobotie (minced meat with custard and cheese on top).
Our guide Mart had awards for everyone in the group.
Terri - Most likely to have a picture of herself and her meal.
Brian - Most likely to get on a hyper, out of control horse.
(I had a secondary award for "Most likely to travel with a suitcase from Radio Shack." Apparently some people have taken exception to my "bag of technology."
Good night, people.
Today was to be a "day of wine tasting," per our itinerary from GAP Adventures. In reality? How about 7 hours on the bus, a rushed tour of a rather terrible winery in the wine country, an extremely boring tour of Stellenbosch University (our guide's son just "happens" to be a student there- thus our tour). As it truly unfolded, we spent about 10 minutes tasting wine at the aforementioned establishment. Even my inexperienced pallate could discern how bad this stuff was. Perhaps it was the fact that they had twist-off bottles that gave it away...
As for Stellenbosch, though, it is South African wine country in an absolute picturesque natural environment. Imagine Napa with TOWERING mountains in the background. Now comes the bad part. Like many parts of South Africa, security and safety is a major issue. It seemed all the wineries and grapevines were protected with both electric fences and razor wire. Needless to say, it didn't exactly give an inviting feeling. I have been trying to refrain from "our country is better," but in this case, there's no comparison between a Napa experience and what we saw.
The rest of the day went downhill from there. We checked in to our "hotel," and obviously GAP Adventures was running out of cashflow on this part of the trip. The rooms we stayed in could only be described as partially functioning mobile home trailors. It was no larger than 10x18 feet, and we could hear every breath and footstep of the adjoining trailor housing Pascal, the friendly 6'5 German. Our humble abode was properly decorated with a plastic patio lawn table and matching plastic chairs. Not on the patio, but IN the trailor, completely stuffing any possible open space in our shack.
Our trailor-park manager was nice enough to inform us that due to the "energy loading" situation in South Africa, we indeed would be without power for several hours. As it was getting dark, we were equipped with candles and flashlights as we got ready for dinner. In my years of travel, I can only think of only one hostel in Cambodia that I would consider worse digs.
Tonights dinner was our farewell dinner to the GAP Group. We made some new friends and enjoyed traveling with most everybody. Terri had chicken pot pie, a South African favorite. I tried the S. African sampler, a nice trio of lamb curry, pot pie, and bobotie (minced meat with custard and cheese on top).
Our guide Mart had awards for everyone in the group.
Terri - Most likely to have a picture of herself and her meal.
Brian - Most likely to get on a hyper, out of control horse.
(I had a secondary award for "Most likely to travel with a suitcase from Radio Shack." Apparently some people have taken exception to my "bag of technology."
Good night, people.
South Africa - Day 11 - April 20, 2008
Today was another long day of travel, perhaps 5 hours in total. We hit up some shopping along the way and snapped some nice ocean views. Our first stop of the day was Cango Caves in the Little Karoo. Boasting caverns dating back 1.5 million years, it was a nice tour.
Our second activity in Karoo was quite an interesting ostrich farm. It provided a nice little educational experience, shopping stop, and more fun for Terri. As I was elected the "Man" of the group, I was forced to kiss an ostrich. You'll be pleased to know that this be done by inserting a grain pellet in your mouth, closing your eyes, and hoping the stupid bird doesn't "make out" with half your face. Surprisingly, Betty the Ostrich was a nice kisser and properly eradicated the food from my mouth. And for you sick people who are wondering, NO!--Ostriches do NOT lead with their tongues. Yes, Mrs. Carlson indeed does have a video of this.
Food today was also noteworthy. I had an ostrich burger for lunch (probably my last), and Crocodile Salad and Pizza for dinner. Good eats on the Little Karoo...
Our second activity in Karoo was quite an interesting ostrich farm. It provided a nice little educational experience, shopping stop, and more fun for Terri. As I was elected the "Man" of the group, I was forced to kiss an ostrich. You'll be pleased to know that this be done by inserting a grain pellet in your mouth, closing your eyes, and hoping the stupid bird doesn't "make out" with half your face. Surprisingly, Betty the Ostrich was a nice kisser and properly eradicated the food from my mouth. And for you sick people who are wondering, NO!--Ostriches do NOT lead with their tongues. Yes, Mrs. Carlson indeed does have a video of this.
Food today was also noteworthy. I had an ostrich burger for lunch (probably my last), and Crocodile Salad and Pizza for dinner. Good eats on the Little Karoo...
South Africa - Day 10 - April 19, 2008
I wish I had great stories of adventure and thrilling experiences. In short, it rained today. Not just some rain. All day. This was unfortuante, as Terri and I had game viewing (on horseback) and kayaking with dolphins on tap.
As a result, today was a day of recharging batteries. Literally and figuratively... We collected ourselves, took a MUCH needed nap, updated our journals, and just enjoyed some downtime. And let me tell you, the hotel in "Plett" had some sweet 80's American movies on. I can't imagine anybody would've watched that crap even in it's own day.
Dinner tonight was the saving grace. We decided on a unique looking spot called "LM Prawns--A Taste of Mozambique." It looked rather nice, and the lure of true African food was enough to bring us in. For a short history lesson, Mozambique's food and historical culture is greatly influenced by the Portugese. So we dined on delicious marinated beef and chicken, alongside a prawn salad. The best part was peri peri sauce. Peri Peri apparently is made of a mix of chilis, lime, garlic and who knows what else. It would turn any vegetarian into a carnivore. As we were wrapping up the meal, we heard someone with a VERY large voice, burst into perhaps the most popular South African traditional song: SHOSHOLOZA!!!!!!!! This is a song of national pride, sung in the tribal "Xhosa" language. The song is infectious, and I have gone days upon days getting this tune stuck in my head... Before we knew it, the entire wait staff, managers, and cooks (about 15 people) were masterfully wailing this song, Happy Birthday in Xhosa, and then another. It was one of those "had-to-be-there" kind of moments, but ALL of these people could sing, dance, and fill up a room. It was like listening to a gospel choir that can cook the hell out of some prawns... Anyway, it was one of my most memorable dining experiences anywhere, and a great way to top a rainy day.
As a result, today was a day of recharging batteries. Literally and figuratively... We collected ourselves, took a MUCH needed nap, updated our journals, and just enjoyed some downtime. And let me tell you, the hotel in "Plett" had some sweet 80's American movies on. I can't imagine anybody would've watched that crap even in it's own day.
Dinner tonight was the saving grace. We decided on a unique looking spot called "LM Prawns--A Taste of Mozambique." It looked rather nice, and the lure of true African food was enough to bring us in. For a short history lesson, Mozambique's food and historical culture is greatly influenced by the Portugese. So we dined on delicious marinated beef and chicken, alongside a prawn salad. The best part was peri peri sauce. Peri Peri apparently is made of a mix of chilis, lime, garlic and who knows what else. It would turn any vegetarian into a carnivore. As we were wrapping up the meal, we heard someone with a VERY large voice, burst into perhaps the most popular South African traditional song: SHOSHOLOZA!!!!!!!! This is a song of national pride, sung in the tribal "Xhosa" language. The song is infectious, and I have gone days upon days getting this tune stuck in my head... Before we knew it, the entire wait staff, managers, and cooks (about 15 people) were masterfully wailing this song, Happy Birthday in Xhosa, and then another. It was one of those "had-to-be-there" kind of moments, but ALL of these people could sing, dance, and fill up a room. It was like listening to a gospel choir that can cook the hell out of some prawns... Anyway, it was one of my most memorable dining experiences anywhere, and a great way to top a rainy day.
South Africa - Day 9 - April 18, 2008
We awoke early this day to catch the sunrise from our deck. The views were superb, as we spotted impala and wildabeest from our perch. Terri was delighted that a canine joined us for this sunrise. Adolf's Jack-Russel, properly named "Hitler," playfully fetched sticks while we enjoyed the crisp morning.
Estelle again had a traditional Afrikaan breakfast for us. Scrambles eggs, porridge (with tomato sauces cheese mixed in), antelope sausage, bacon, and fruit made it's way to our bellies.
We then commenced on a 3 hour drive to Plettenburg Bay, commonly known as "The Plett." Plettenburg Bay is well known for its aventure and outdoors activities. Seven of us hit up the zipline tours, as we went from tree-to tree along a line with a harness. At times we were 300 feet from the forest floor, standing on platforms attached to the trees with nothing but cables. Zipping between 10 different lines, this was great fun. Look for the pictures to see how cool I look in a zip line harness....
The rest of the day was spent walking the beaches in Tsitsikamma National Park. This park is a lush rainforest area that opens up right onto rocky beaches on the Indian Ocean. With views most comparable to the California coast near Carmel and Monterey, the waves coming in were impressive. We're told a storm is definitely coming in, as some were swelling greater than 20 feet.
Today we finally received word that our request for dinner was confirmed. Having been on a waiting list for a month, we got the green light for dinner at TreeTop Lodge in Knysna. This is a 5-Star Lodge and Restaurant that came highly recommended by some friends. So we cleaned up (Terri does this better than I), and arranged transport to the lodge. This place is 5-star all the way. With candles along a trail to the restaurant, it is literally perched on a cliff and built amongst the treetops. A GIGANTIC wooden door opens the restaurant. You'll have to see the photos, but this place would be 5 stars in the U.S. or anywhere else. It was gorgeous, well decorated, and quite jarring to see such a fantastic spot in Africa. It was quite unexpected. Dinner was a set menu, and we were a little worried due to the lack of prices on anything. Here are the courses:
Compliments of Chef: Quail Egg and Salmon on Biscuit
Pastry with Sun-Dried Tomato
Cream of Chickpea and Carrot Soup
Crispy Broccoli Salad
Pineapple and Coriander Sorbet (I've never had sorbet BEFORE the main course)
Brian - Marinated Ostritch Filet wrapped in Parma Ham with Veggies
Terri-Local Fish (Roman) with Olive and Pine Nut Crust, Potatoes and Avacado cooked in Truffle Oil
Respective deserts (I had brownie and ice cream. I'm not even sure what Terri's was).
1 Bottle of Laarts South African Wine
Again, we saw no prices on anything. We enjoyed every bite, and we feared the bill to land somewhere between $200-$300 for the quality food and outsanding service we had. To our surprise, it was $130 (hefty tip included). Tonight's gluttony stands as one of the top meals of our lives, without a doubt. I can think of only a handfull of special dinners that even came close. How fortunate we are to get to experience this type of lifestyle if even once in a while...
Estelle again had a traditional Afrikaan breakfast for us. Scrambles eggs, porridge (with tomato sauces cheese mixed in), antelope sausage, bacon, and fruit made it's way to our bellies.
We then commenced on a 3 hour drive to Plettenburg Bay, commonly known as "The Plett." Plettenburg Bay is well known for its aventure and outdoors activities. Seven of us hit up the zipline tours, as we went from tree-to tree along a line with a harness. At times we were 300 feet from the forest floor, standing on platforms attached to the trees with nothing but cables. Zipping between 10 different lines, this was great fun. Look for the pictures to see how cool I look in a zip line harness....
The rest of the day was spent walking the beaches in Tsitsikamma National Park. This park is a lush rainforest area that opens up right onto rocky beaches on the Indian Ocean. With views most comparable to the California coast near Carmel and Monterey, the waves coming in were impressive. We're told a storm is definitely coming in, as some were swelling greater than 20 feet.
Today we finally received word that our request for dinner was confirmed. Having been on a waiting list for a month, we got the green light for dinner at TreeTop Lodge in Knysna. This is a 5-Star Lodge and Restaurant that came highly recommended by some friends. So we cleaned up (Terri does this better than I), and arranged transport to the lodge. This place is 5-star all the way. With candles along a trail to the restaurant, it is literally perched on a cliff and built amongst the treetops. A GIGANTIC wooden door opens the restaurant. You'll have to see the photos, but this place would be 5 stars in the U.S. or anywhere else. It was gorgeous, well decorated, and quite jarring to see such a fantastic spot in Africa. It was quite unexpected. Dinner was a set menu, and we were a little worried due to the lack of prices on anything. Here are the courses:
Compliments of Chef: Quail Egg and Salmon on Biscuit
Pastry with Sun-Dried Tomato
Cream of Chickpea and Carrot Soup
Crispy Broccoli Salad
Pineapple and Coriander Sorbet (I've never had sorbet BEFORE the main course)
Brian - Marinated Ostritch Filet wrapped in Parma Ham with Veggies
Terri-Local Fish (Roman) with Olive and Pine Nut Crust, Potatoes and Avacado cooked in Truffle Oil
Respective deserts (I had brownie and ice cream. I'm not even sure what Terri's was).
1 Bottle of Laarts South African Wine
Again, we saw no prices on anything. We enjoyed every bite, and we feared the bill to land somewhere between $200-$300 for the quality food and outsanding service we had. To our surprise, it was $130 (hefty tip included). Tonight's gluttony stands as one of the top meals of our lives, without a doubt. I can think of only a handfull of special dinners that even came close. How fortunate we are to get to experience this type of lifestyle if even once in a while...
South Africa - Day 8- April 17, 2008
Today we woke with another great sunrise over the Indian Ocean. We skipped the formal breakfast and ate granola bars on the rocks as the waves came in. A storm is coming, as the seas were awesome today. It looked much like the North Shore of Hawaii, with 10-15 foot swells repeatedly crashing the beach.
Today required a lengthy drive to Patensie. Wildlife viewing along the road included wildabeast, eagles, giraffe, and hornbill birds. Our drive also wasn't met without a stop at a gas station for the much beloved Mincemeat Pie. New Zealand has the best meat pies, but S.A. isn't far behind...
By the way, KFC is bigger than ever in S.A. Most all the small towns we drove through has one. It should be noted, I've seen a total of ONE McDonald's so far in a week in this country. Quite refreshing. That's not to say KFC is great. In fact, my advice is to avoid eating at KFC at all costs in S.A. It was barely edible, and the Colonel would not be proud.
After 7 hours of travel, we arrived to Patensie. Our lodge was a game reserve in the bush, called Shumba Lodge. This place was a definite highlight of the trip. We were met by Adolf, owner of Shumba. We all piled into 4x4 jeeps, as our bus couldn't make the 5 mile road up to the lodge itself. Upon arrival, we got our keys and walked a windy path to our accommodations. Perched on the edge of a cliff, Terri and I held the key to a tribal hut like the ones in Lesotho. Actually constructed in the Xhosa Tribe architecture, our mushroom-shaped hut had dried grass for walls in the interior, and a dung/clay mix enclosing the roof like some sort of space pod. We had a one-door entrance, and a wood-deck on the cliff that overlooked the game reserve. Unreal. It should be noted that it did have running water (although brown), electricity, and definitely the smallest, narrowest shower I've ever tried to use in my life. I think my elbows are still bruised.
So we dropped our bags and piled back into the jeeps for a sundown game drive. We drove for a couple hours and spotted some great wildlife: zebras, impala, sable antelope, wildabeest, monkeys, and steenbock antelope. Ultimately we watched the sun set over the plains from a high-point in the reserve. What a treat.
Adolf's wife Estelle was hard-at-work in the kitchen, preparing for us a very traditional Dutch/Afrikaan meal. It included bean and sausage soup, outside fire-cooked bread, chicken pie, yellow rice, pumpkin fritters, green beans, steenbock antelope patties, and dessert.
I forgot to mention that Shumba Lodge has the best bar I've ever seen. Including a snooker table and dart board, the lodge is home to the many beasts mounted by Adolf and his now deceased father (killed by lions, sadly). Along the walls were zebra, a full cheetah, a hippo, and more than 10 types of antelope.
Adolf has quite a few adventures of his own to tell. Although it was his wife Estelle that exlained the wounds on his neck and face. Adolf was attacked by 9 lions and lived to tell the story. After 3 months in ICU, he indeed did survive. As she stated, "It's kind of a big deal in this area."
Today required a lengthy drive to Patensie. Wildlife viewing along the road included wildabeast, eagles, giraffe, and hornbill birds. Our drive also wasn't met without a stop at a gas station for the much beloved Mincemeat Pie. New Zealand has the best meat pies, but S.A. isn't far behind...
By the way, KFC is bigger than ever in S.A. Most all the small towns we drove through has one. It should be noted, I've seen a total of ONE McDonald's so far in a week in this country. Quite refreshing. That's not to say KFC is great. In fact, my advice is to avoid eating at KFC at all costs in S.A. It was barely edible, and the Colonel would not be proud.
After 7 hours of travel, we arrived to Patensie. Our lodge was a game reserve in the bush, called Shumba Lodge. This place was a definite highlight of the trip. We were met by Adolf, owner of Shumba. We all piled into 4x4 jeeps, as our bus couldn't make the 5 mile road up to the lodge itself. Upon arrival, we got our keys and walked a windy path to our accommodations. Perched on the edge of a cliff, Terri and I held the key to a tribal hut like the ones in Lesotho. Actually constructed in the Xhosa Tribe architecture, our mushroom-shaped hut had dried grass for walls in the interior, and a dung/clay mix enclosing the roof like some sort of space pod. We had a one-door entrance, and a wood-deck on the cliff that overlooked the game reserve. Unreal. It should be noted that it did have running water (although brown), electricity, and definitely the smallest, narrowest shower I've ever tried to use in my life. I think my elbows are still bruised.
So we dropped our bags and piled back into the jeeps for a sundown game drive. We drove for a couple hours and spotted some great wildlife: zebras, impala, sable antelope, wildabeest, monkeys, and steenbock antelope. Ultimately we watched the sun set over the plains from a high-point in the reserve. What a treat.
Adolf's wife Estelle was hard-at-work in the kitchen, preparing for us a very traditional Dutch/Afrikaan meal. It included bean and sausage soup, outside fire-cooked bread, chicken pie, yellow rice, pumpkin fritters, green beans, steenbock antelope patties, and dessert.
I forgot to mention that Shumba Lodge has the best bar I've ever seen. Including a snooker table and dart board, the lodge is home to the many beasts mounted by Adolf and his now deceased father (killed by lions, sadly). Along the walls were zebra, a full cheetah, a hippo, and more than 10 types of antelope.
Adolf has quite a few adventures of his own to tell. Although it was his wife Estelle that exlained the wounds on his neck and face. Adolf was attacked by 9 lions and lived to tell the story. After 3 months in ICU, he indeed did survive. As she stated, "It's kind of a big deal in this area."
South Africa - Day 7- April 16, 2008
We woke up early today and caught the sunrise over the water. The Wild Coast is home to thousands of dolphins, and we enjoyed plenty of them playing in the surf as the sun jumped out of the Indian Ocean.
After a quick breakfast, Emma, Jamie, Terri, and I hiked up to whale point to catch the views. Moving along the rocky beach and ultimately up a 500 foot hill, we had a great perch to watch the dolphins play. They actually would sit out in the swells like surfers, waiting for a big wave to come in. When it did, we could easily spot upwards of 10 dolphins weaving in and out of the waves. Right before they'd curl and crash, the dophins would jot to the back and do a perfect leap out of the wave. Incredible. I'd say there were upwards of 50-75 in the pod we were watching this morning. It's still too early for the whales, as they come in the "winter," around June or July.
The latter events of this day were perhaps ones Terri will enjoy telling for years to come. To start, Terri, myself, and Liz Taylor (not joking) from TX booked a horse-riding tour through a small game reserve and onto the beach. To be specific, we were picked up by Ninky Noo himself, owner of the ranch and game reserve. This crazy old S. African looked like he was straight out of a movie. He told us his philosphies of life, beer-drinking stories, and rules of the ranch. All intermingled amongst each other. Most importantly, Ninky Noo warned us of the Ninky Moo. This rule requires anyone who falls off a horse to start in the bar, run across the pasture naked to the cow watering hole, moo like a cow, and stay there until the bar patrons moo back at you.
I must foremention that on ANY horse-riding tour, anywhere in the world, it is mandatory that I get the hugest, ugliest, foaming-at-the-mouth horse within a 50 mile radius. Like all past rides, today held true. I was mounted on top of Jack, the horse that ejected Jutta from Austria yesterday. Lovely. I'm not sure yet if she moo'd or not. I'm thinking not, as she hurt her wrist. Immediately after getting into the saddle, Jack apparently found it useful to slam my right leg repeatedly into the fence to which he was tied. I enjoyed this thoroughly.
As this was just partially a game viewing ride, our final destination was the beach where we were to run the horses. I will readily admit I knew this going in... Now I have run horses, although this was in Montana many years ago on very well trained horses. Right off the bat, Jack and I clearly didn't have the best communication with the reigns. If you want my opinion, the stupid horse didn't want to listen to any direction I pulled. It was only when we were going downhill that Jack decided to run in circles on the hill at full speed, tossing me around his back within inches of certain Ninky Moos... To say the least, this was startling. But still, with Mike's (guide and son of Ninky Noo) help, Jack was settled down and ready to ride. Onward to the beach we went.
Although Mike may have mentioned this before we started, I started to understand the full meaning of this statemtnt: "Now when we get to the beach, these horses are gonna RUN!" The closer we got, the more these horses wanted to take off. This very much included the stupid 2000 pound beast beneath me, Jack. Since Jack was uncooperative a majority of the ride, it was genuine concern from everyone as to whether we should turn around and go back, or just commence with blastoff. If you know me well, unsurmountable challenges can easily be met with a balance of stubborness and uncalculated risk-taking. Many times this works out for the best. Today at the Ninky Noo Ranch, it was realized in perhaps the most grandest of all backfires. It was absolute terror.
When I made my final decision ("let's do it"), it was a matter of seconds before Jack took off in thoroughbread fashion. It was like the opening moments of the Kentucky Derby. This animal took off from Zero to (had to be) 50 mph in about 3 seconds. Believe it or not, I was actually OK for about 50 yards of this, speeding across the beach at breakneck speed. Then Jack decided (unilateraly) that it would be fun to run full-speed into the ocean. So (despite my pulling left) we veered right, and then ran parallel to the beach in about 6 inches of water, splashing and now moving with no control at all. I'm not sure if the splashing of water was before or after I started screaming like a schoolgirl at the top of my lungs. I'm thinking it was after, and also around the point where I realized Ninky Noo's ranch had indeed not invested in helmets for it's distinguished guests. At this point both of my feet had exited their reserved stirrups, and I was basically holding on for dear life with my legs. Pulling back on the reigns with everything I had I screamed "STOOOOOOOOOOP!" as loud as I ever have said anything in my 34 years. By the grace of God, I hope to see my 35th. After maybe 300 yards of travel, the horse miraculously ended the ride, standing "hoof-deep" in water. Long story short, that was the end of the running, and after a short beach WALK, we headed back.
You can ask Terri what she saw, but she reports being drop-jawed while running her much-smaller horse with complete control and grace.
And no, I did not have to do the Ninky Moo. And no, I will never run a horse again. Ever.
We ended our horse experience at Ninky Noo's Pub. This was adjacent to his pasture golf course that had wild turkeys an sheep on the 9th green. A much needed beer was enjoyed as Ninky Noo himself slowly poured a shot of whiskey on Liz's blistered finger. Well known for expletives, Liz delivered in full as Dr. Ninky worked his voodoo magic. He also told us the story of cutting off his son Mike's (our guide) finger with a kitchen knife after he was bit by a puff adder snake. Yes, we are in Africa. Time for bed.
After a quick breakfast, Emma, Jamie, Terri, and I hiked up to whale point to catch the views. Moving along the rocky beach and ultimately up a 500 foot hill, we had a great perch to watch the dolphins play. They actually would sit out in the swells like surfers, waiting for a big wave to come in. When it did, we could easily spot upwards of 10 dolphins weaving in and out of the waves. Right before they'd curl and crash, the dophins would jot to the back and do a perfect leap out of the wave. Incredible. I'd say there were upwards of 50-75 in the pod we were watching this morning. It's still too early for the whales, as they come in the "winter," around June or July.
The latter events of this day were perhaps ones Terri will enjoy telling for years to come. To start, Terri, myself, and Liz Taylor (not joking) from TX booked a horse-riding tour through a small game reserve and onto the beach. To be specific, we were picked up by Ninky Noo himself, owner of the ranch and game reserve. This crazy old S. African looked like he was straight out of a movie. He told us his philosphies of life, beer-drinking stories, and rules of the ranch. All intermingled amongst each other. Most importantly, Ninky Noo warned us of the Ninky Moo. This rule requires anyone who falls off a horse to start in the bar, run across the pasture naked to the cow watering hole, moo like a cow, and stay there until the bar patrons moo back at you.
I must foremention that on ANY horse-riding tour, anywhere in the world, it is mandatory that I get the hugest, ugliest, foaming-at-the-mouth horse within a 50 mile radius. Like all past rides, today held true. I was mounted on top of Jack, the horse that ejected Jutta from Austria yesterday. Lovely. I'm not sure yet if she moo'd or not. I'm thinking not, as she hurt her wrist. Immediately after getting into the saddle, Jack apparently found it useful to slam my right leg repeatedly into the fence to which he was tied. I enjoyed this thoroughly.
As this was just partially a game viewing ride, our final destination was the beach where we were to run the horses. I will readily admit I knew this going in... Now I have run horses, although this was in Montana many years ago on very well trained horses. Right off the bat, Jack and I clearly didn't have the best communication with the reigns. If you want my opinion, the stupid horse didn't want to listen to any direction I pulled. It was only when we were going downhill that Jack decided to run in circles on the hill at full speed, tossing me around his back within inches of certain Ninky Moos... To say the least, this was startling. But still, with Mike's (guide and son of Ninky Noo) help, Jack was settled down and ready to ride. Onward to the beach we went.
Although Mike may have mentioned this before we started, I started to understand the full meaning of this statemtnt: "Now when we get to the beach, these horses are gonna RUN!" The closer we got, the more these horses wanted to take off. This very much included the stupid 2000 pound beast beneath me, Jack. Since Jack was uncooperative a majority of the ride, it was genuine concern from everyone as to whether we should turn around and go back, or just commence with blastoff. If you know me well, unsurmountable challenges can easily be met with a balance of stubborness and uncalculated risk-taking. Many times this works out for the best. Today at the Ninky Noo Ranch, it was realized in perhaps the most grandest of all backfires. It was absolute terror.
When I made my final decision ("let's do it"), it was a matter of seconds before Jack took off in thoroughbread fashion. It was like the opening moments of the Kentucky Derby. This animal took off from Zero to (had to be) 50 mph in about 3 seconds. Believe it or not, I was actually OK for about 50 yards of this, speeding across the beach at breakneck speed. Then Jack decided (unilateraly) that it would be fun to run full-speed into the ocean. So (despite my pulling left) we veered right, and then ran parallel to the beach in about 6 inches of water, splashing and now moving with no control at all. I'm not sure if the splashing of water was before or after I started screaming like a schoolgirl at the top of my lungs. I'm thinking it was after, and also around the point where I realized Ninky Noo's ranch had indeed not invested in helmets for it's distinguished guests. At this point both of my feet had exited their reserved stirrups, and I was basically holding on for dear life with my legs. Pulling back on the reigns with everything I had I screamed "STOOOOOOOOOOP!" as loud as I ever have said anything in my 34 years. By the grace of God, I hope to see my 35th. After maybe 300 yards of travel, the horse miraculously ended the ride, standing "hoof-deep" in water. Long story short, that was the end of the running, and after a short beach WALK, we headed back.
You can ask Terri what she saw, but she reports being drop-jawed while running her much-smaller horse with complete control and grace.
And no, I did not have to do the Ninky Moo. And no, I will never run a horse again. Ever.
We ended our horse experience at Ninky Noo's Pub. This was adjacent to his pasture golf course that had wild turkeys an sheep on the 9th green. A much needed beer was enjoyed as Ninky Noo himself slowly poured a shot of whiskey on Liz's blistered finger. Well known for expletives, Liz delivered in full as Dr. Ninky worked his voodoo magic. He also told us the story of cutting off his son Mike's (our guide) finger with a kitchen knife after he was bit by a puff adder snake. Yes, we are in Africa. Time for bed.
South Africa - Day 6- April 15, 2008
I should mention our route of travel. GAP has provided a new bus and a driver, and the 16 of us all travel in relative comfort and air-conditioning. My only complaint is that the bucket seats were clearly designed for someone about 80 pounds lighter than me. Although I don't claim to be the fittest I've ever been, only small-statured North American males would actually fit in those damn seats.
We started this day with a 7 hour drive to Haga Haga. Again, the road provided fantastic African countryside, complimented by mountains, bush, and very small villages with huts and tiny-but-bustling markets. I'm still trying to figure out how these women can carry 40 pound loads on their heads and it doesn't waver an inch...
The most interesting of our stops was in the town of Mthatha. This is the childhood home of Nelson Mandela, where we saw one of his current homes. Mandela, turning 90 this year, has just about everything in this town named after him. And for good reason.
I will take a moment to opine about my views on the South African culture and economy. Traveling through the interior, it is quite obvious of the discrepancy of wealth and resources. A majority of the area we've seen in S.A. is clearly populated by very poor people lacking things such as running water or electricty. A majority of the people live in what we'd call boxcars or the mushroom-shaped huts with grass roofs. At this point, there appears to be two parallel universes existing in South Africa. The cities such as Durban, Cape Town, and Johannesburg, and then everything else. It is like this in many countries I've visited, but the depths of poverty in S. Africa I think are unique in quantity. Especially for a country so rich in other ways. To remember, April 27, 1994 is "Freedom Day" in S.A., the day the constitution approving racial equality was passed with a new constitution. It is quite interesting to be in a country where freedom is such a new concept and a high majority of the population can remember the day they couldn't vote or own property.
Before I get too reflective, I'll get back to the facts at hand. We arrived at Haga Haga Beach Resort, a fine spot on the beaches of the Wild Coast. This is our 2nd time to travel with GAP, and never have we had accommodations like this. We all received 2-story beach houses to share (ours was with Mart-our guide). Two bedrooms, 3 bathrooms, kitchen, and a bedroom deck opening out with an full direct view of the Indian Ocean. The bedroom was about 20 feet from the crashing surf and rocks. The view--fantastic. You could put this beach anywhere on any island in Hawaii---it would be right at the top of the list for most beautiful beaches. You'll have to see the pictures.
Terri and I walked the beach and snapped the sunset as it retracted over the mountains to the west. Dinner was out on the patio next to the beach, enjoying a bottle of wine and stories with our entire group.
We started this day with a 7 hour drive to Haga Haga. Again, the road provided fantastic African countryside, complimented by mountains, bush, and very small villages with huts and tiny-but-bustling markets. I'm still trying to figure out how these women can carry 40 pound loads on their heads and it doesn't waver an inch...
The most interesting of our stops was in the town of Mthatha. This is the childhood home of Nelson Mandela, where we saw one of his current homes. Mandela, turning 90 this year, has just about everything in this town named after him. And for good reason.
I will take a moment to opine about my views on the South African culture and economy. Traveling through the interior, it is quite obvious of the discrepancy of wealth and resources. A majority of the area we've seen in S.A. is clearly populated by very poor people lacking things such as running water or electricty. A majority of the people live in what we'd call boxcars or the mushroom-shaped huts with grass roofs. At this point, there appears to be two parallel universes existing in South Africa. The cities such as Durban, Cape Town, and Johannesburg, and then everything else. It is like this in many countries I've visited, but the depths of poverty in S. Africa I think are unique in quantity. Especially for a country so rich in other ways. To remember, April 27, 1994 is "Freedom Day" in S.A., the day the constitution approving racial equality was passed with a new constitution. It is quite interesting to be in a country where freedom is such a new concept and a high majority of the population can remember the day they couldn't vote or own property.
Before I get too reflective, I'll get back to the facts at hand. We arrived at Haga Haga Beach Resort, a fine spot on the beaches of the Wild Coast. This is our 2nd time to travel with GAP, and never have we had accommodations like this. We all received 2-story beach houses to share (ours was with Mart-our guide). Two bedrooms, 3 bathrooms, kitchen, and a bedroom deck opening out with an full direct view of the Indian Ocean. The bedroom was about 20 feet from the crashing surf and rocks. The view--fantastic. You could put this beach anywhere on any island in Hawaii---it would be right at the top of the list for most beautiful beaches. You'll have to see the pictures.
Terri and I walked the beach and snapped the sunset as it retracted over the mountains to the west. Dinner was out on the patio next to the beach, enjoying a bottle of wine and stories with our entire group.
South Africa - Day 5 - April 14, 2008
Today was a definite eye-popper. After a quick brekkie in the hotel, we all piled into 4x4 jeeps for a journey into Lesotho (pronounced Li-soo-too). As you can see on the map, Lesotho is a small country completely enclosed into South Africa. It's population is 2.2 million people, as historically their original tribal people avoided the British and Dutch settlers. Much like the U.S. and their natives, the original settlers in South Africa pushed the native tribes (Zulu and Xhosa) into the interior, in some cases all but squashing their lives and culture. Lesotho, due to it's mountainous terrain and strong tribal leaders, seems to have avoided this. Apparently there are areas of Lesotho that are quite civilized, industrialized, and have things such as electricity and running water. The area we encountered, was very much tribal and incredibly poor.
We traveled for about 2 hours each way along perhaps the windiest, rockiest, most brutal dirt road I've seen in my life: The Sani Pass. Only heavy-duty 4x4's could make this 20 mile trip up to the village. After crossing the border, the landscape was surreal. Huge green mountains, rocky cliffs, and not a person or structure to be seen for miles and miles. Wildlife of note were African bearded eagles, baboons, elan (largest of the antelope species), and sugar birds.
Unfortunately, the top was clouded-in upon arrival, so the best views were shielded today. The village at the top of the Sani Pass is one of the higher spots in all of Africa: 9400 feet elevation. It actually snowed yesterday, although has melted since. The seasons are reversed here in S.A., so we are entering the middle stages of autumn at this point. Our visit also boasted a first for us. Terri and I had a beer (Maluti) and burger (McBostho Burger) in the Highest Pub in all of Africa. Pretty good digs for the extremely remote spot we've found.
Other than lunch and a beer, our purpose for the trip was to spend some time with the local Basotho people and experience their culture. As they speak Sesotho, our guide interpreted. A few interesting tidbits:
1. The Basotho people live in small circular huts, about 15 feet in diameter. The coned roofs are entirely made of dried grass, and the walls and floors are made of a mixture of clay and cow dung. They are quite resourceful people for the extreme climate and resources of the area. Most of the winter is lived under snow and below-zero temperatures. They actualy use steel grates to cook their fires upon, and below the dirt floor are rocks touching the metal grate that heat and provide heated floors.
2. Identification: The locals all carry small sticks about 2 feet long. Wrapped along each end is a creative design of multi-colored telephone wire. Each pattern is absolutely unqique to a person, and it serves as their I.D. their entire lives. As there obviously is no DMV to get a license, a stick found along the rocky terrain would indicate who most likely died. They carry these sticks literally everywhere they go.
3. Education: Unfortunately, the village we visited is far to remote and poor to allow for education. A vast majority of the people here go uneducated in any formal manner. If the parents can afford boarding school, then some kids will be sent to some of the larger villages. I sense this the opportunity for this is very poor though.
4. Economy: Beyond the straw hats and beaded jewelry they sell to tourists such as ourselves, I see very little income for the people of this village. In fact, I sense that bartering and the use of livestock is truly the currency of choice. We did offer a collection for a woman who told her stories and shared her home with us. With a few tours per day coming in, I imagine that would allow just enough for their infrequent cab rides into the neighboring villages for the essentials.
5. Marriage: Ancient traditions still hold true. To marry, one must come up with the dinero first. When I say money, I mean..... Cows. A traditional marriage requires 12 cows to go to the father before a ceremony is performed. However, if the wife already has 1 child to another man--11 cows. And so on and so on. 12 kids..... Free! And I thought planning a wedding in Lake Tahoe was a mess....
Anyway, we finished up our educational chat with a local woman, who shared some bread and beer with us in her hut. The bread was actually pretty good. The beer, 2% alcohol and fermented in plastic buckets in her hut, not-so-good.
After a spine-rattling 2 hour drive back to the hotel, we enjoyed some dinner in the adjacent village of Underberg (back in South Africa). Terri had the filet this night, and I had some butternut squash/sweet potato soup and some chicken and pasta. Again, very good eats.
We traveled for about 2 hours each way along perhaps the windiest, rockiest, most brutal dirt road I've seen in my life: The Sani Pass. Only heavy-duty 4x4's could make this 20 mile trip up to the village. After crossing the border, the landscape was surreal. Huge green mountains, rocky cliffs, and not a person or structure to be seen for miles and miles. Wildlife of note were African bearded eagles, baboons, elan (largest of the antelope species), and sugar birds.
Unfortunately, the top was clouded-in upon arrival, so the best views were shielded today. The village at the top of the Sani Pass is one of the higher spots in all of Africa: 9400 feet elevation. It actually snowed yesterday, although has melted since. The seasons are reversed here in S.A., so we are entering the middle stages of autumn at this point. Our visit also boasted a first for us. Terri and I had a beer (Maluti) and burger (McBostho Burger) in the Highest Pub in all of Africa. Pretty good digs for the extremely remote spot we've found.
Other than lunch and a beer, our purpose for the trip was to spend some time with the local Basotho people and experience their culture. As they speak Sesotho, our guide interpreted. A few interesting tidbits:
1. The Basotho people live in small circular huts, about 15 feet in diameter. The coned roofs are entirely made of dried grass, and the walls and floors are made of a mixture of clay and cow dung. They are quite resourceful people for the extreme climate and resources of the area. Most of the winter is lived under snow and below-zero temperatures. They actualy use steel grates to cook their fires upon, and below the dirt floor are rocks touching the metal grate that heat and provide heated floors.
2. Identification: The locals all carry small sticks about 2 feet long. Wrapped along each end is a creative design of multi-colored telephone wire. Each pattern is absolutely unqique to a person, and it serves as their I.D. their entire lives. As there obviously is no DMV to get a license, a stick found along the rocky terrain would indicate who most likely died. They carry these sticks literally everywhere they go.
3. Education: Unfortunately, the village we visited is far to remote and poor to allow for education. A vast majority of the people here go uneducated in any formal manner. If the parents can afford boarding school, then some kids will be sent to some of the larger villages. I sense this the opportunity for this is very poor though.
4. Economy: Beyond the straw hats and beaded jewelry they sell to tourists such as ourselves, I see very little income for the people of this village. In fact, I sense that bartering and the use of livestock is truly the currency of choice. We did offer a collection for a woman who told her stories and shared her home with us. With a few tours per day coming in, I imagine that would allow just enough for their infrequent cab rides into the neighboring villages for the essentials.
5. Marriage: Ancient traditions still hold true. To marry, one must come up with the dinero first. When I say money, I mean..... Cows. A traditional marriage requires 12 cows to go to the father before a ceremony is performed. However, if the wife already has 1 child to another man--11 cows. And so on and so on. 12 kids..... Free! And I thought planning a wedding in Lake Tahoe was a mess....
Anyway, we finished up our educational chat with a local woman, who shared some bread and beer with us in her hut. The bread was actually pretty good. The beer, 2% alcohol and fermented in plastic buckets in her hut, not-so-good.
After a spine-rattling 2 hour drive back to the hotel, we enjoyed some dinner in the adjacent village of Underberg (back in South Africa). Terri had the filet this night, and I had some butternut squash/sweet potato soup and some chicken and pasta. Again, very good eats.
South Africa - Day 4 - April 13, 2008
Again we have discovered that our hotel is pretty much ground zero of the biggest all night street-party in South Africa. The locals were yelling, whistling, honking horns, and fighting literally till the sun came up. As our hotel is situated right on the beach, there is apparently little to no police intervention to keep quiet. It actually was quite scary out there, and I'm very please to move onward. As Durban is merely the "take-off" point of our trip, this town offers quite little.
Today's journey covered a stretch of about 6 hours of driving into the Drakensburg Mountains. As Drakensburg means "dragon" in Afrikaan (language of the Dutch settlers that today is one of 9 offical S.A. languages), they are so named to represent the spine of the beast. We passed through many small villages with basically huts and some livestock. The women were carrying large boxes or baskets on their heads as they walked down the highway, which was one of our first signs that indeed we are in Africa. A quick stop along the way allowed for snapping a few pics of a 300 ft. waterfall.
Our final destination was at the Himeville Arms Hotel, a quaint B+B in the English Tudor style. Our cabin was huge compared to the hotel in Durban, even with our own fireplace. Due to the rain-out of our horseback riding, we spent the entire afternoon in the bar tasting the local brews and wines. They have quite a nice pub, complimented with non-stop rugby and cricket on the tubes. This was also a great chance to get to know our fellow travelers, as the people we meet on GAP trips are always so well-traveled and have great stories.
As our hotel is quite remote in the town of Himeville (population easily under 200), dinner tonight was at the hotel. It definitely impressed, as Terri had the local trout and I had a very large filet. Just to add an African touch, options for the sauce on the steak were pepper, garlic, or MONKEY GLAND. Ummmmmm, pepper sauce please...
Today's journey covered a stretch of about 6 hours of driving into the Drakensburg Mountains. As Drakensburg means "dragon" in Afrikaan (language of the Dutch settlers that today is one of 9 offical S.A. languages), they are so named to represent the spine of the beast. We passed through many small villages with basically huts and some livestock. The women were carrying large boxes or baskets on their heads as they walked down the highway, which was one of our first signs that indeed we are in Africa. A quick stop along the way allowed for snapping a few pics of a 300 ft. waterfall.
Our final destination was at the Himeville Arms Hotel, a quaint B+B in the English Tudor style. Our cabin was huge compared to the hotel in Durban, even with our own fireplace. Due to the rain-out of our horseback riding, we spent the entire afternoon in the bar tasting the local brews and wines. They have quite a nice pub, complimented with non-stop rugby and cricket on the tubes. This was also a great chance to get to know our fellow travelers, as the people we meet on GAP trips are always so well-traveled and have great stories.
As our hotel is quite remote in the town of Himeville (population easily under 200), dinner tonight was at the hotel. It definitely impressed, as Terri had the local trout and I had a very large filet. Just to add an African touch, options for the sauce on the steak were pepper, garlic, or MONKEY GLAND. Ummmmmm, pepper sauce please...
South Africa - Day 3 - April 12, 2008
April 12, 2008
Well, the beach party apparently ends at 5 AM. Sleeping hours at the Beach Hotel are GREAT between 5 AM to 8 AM. Tonight, ear plugs will come into play.
Durban Beach Hotel offers a generous buffet breakfast. No Holiday Inn here. We're talking cheese/meat trays, eggs, bacon, bangers, taters, breads, fruit, yogurt, cereal. And my favorite---chicken heart curry. It made it to my plate, but not an inch closer to my mouth once I figured what was going on there.
Today we took a city tour of Durban with a private guide. Basically, we hired a taxi driver to take us around. As this is primarily a "startup point" of our tour, Durban was by no means a highlight. Imagine it as a dangerous version of Detroit or Tacoma. Situated on the water, it's the busiest port in all of Africa. That's about all I can say about Durban. The botanical gardens were cool and we saw some noteworthy birds and plants. Terri is quite fond of "spoonbills," which are modified ducks with super-cool, curved bills.
Lunch today was fantastic. Crab curry and chicken curry. Durban has the highest population of Indians outside of India. This makes for some good eats...
We've been warned many times about how dangerous South Africa can be. Although we've come across no conflict yet, we have been extremely aware of our surroundings. Durban is one of those spots. We've been told by more than one local not to be out of our hotel after 5 PM. Sounds like dinner in tonight.
We met our GAP Tour Group tonight. Our leader is Mart, a South African, mother of 3 grown children, and quite a nice lady. We will be traveling with 15 others. We've yet to get to know them yet, but they come from Austria, Germany, Canada, Scotland, England, and a few from the U.S.
Dinner tonight was at the Hotel (Pier 107 Restaurant). We both dined on some local fish called Kingklip. It was delish!
Well, the beach party apparently ends at 5 AM. Sleeping hours at the Beach Hotel are GREAT between 5 AM to 8 AM. Tonight, ear plugs will come into play.
Durban Beach Hotel offers a generous buffet breakfast. No Holiday Inn here. We're talking cheese/meat trays, eggs, bacon, bangers, taters, breads, fruit, yogurt, cereal. And my favorite---chicken heart curry. It made it to my plate, but not an inch closer to my mouth once I figured what was going on there.
Today we took a city tour of Durban with a private guide. Basically, we hired a taxi driver to take us around. As this is primarily a "startup point" of our tour, Durban was by no means a highlight. Imagine it as a dangerous version of Detroit or Tacoma. Situated on the water, it's the busiest port in all of Africa. That's about all I can say about Durban. The botanical gardens were cool and we saw some noteworthy birds and plants. Terri is quite fond of "spoonbills," which are modified ducks with super-cool, curved bills.
Lunch today was fantastic. Crab curry and chicken curry. Durban has the highest population of Indians outside of India. This makes for some good eats...
We've been warned many times about how dangerous South Africa can be. Although we've come across no conflict yet, we have been extremely aware of our surroundings. Durban is one of those spots. We've been told by more than one local not to be out of our hotel after 5 PM. Sounds like dinner in tonight.
We met our GAP Tour Group tonight. Our leader is Mart, a South African, mother of 3 grown children, and quite a nice lady. We will be traveling with 15 others. We've yet to get to know them yet, but they come from Austria, Germany, Canada, Scotland, England, and a few from the U.S.
Dinner tonight was at the Hotel (Pier 107 Restaurant). We both dined on some local fish called Kingklip. It was delish!
South Africa - Day 2 - April 11, 2008
What the heck happened to April 10, 2008? I'll tell you what. I spent 23 hours, 50 minutes of it sitting on my rear end. In case you're curious, the travel to South Africa is brutal. I've done some big trips, but this one wins outright. Ready for this? Door-to-door (Seattle to hotel in Durban): 40 Hours, 51 minutes, 12 seconds.
There were a few "high"lights of our air travel:
1. Near brawl between 2 female passengers on the NY-->ATL flight. Catfight!
2. Brian spilling Polynesian Sauce ALL over his pants at Chick-Fil-A in ATL Airport (Terri would report this #1 highlight--she's easily entertained).
3. We're loving the personalized TV's on the seats with video games, trivia, HBO, and ala carte TV programming. Perhaps it's not a new thing, but first time we've seen it.
4. The area to check your guns and ammo in Johannesburg Intl. Airport literally is AFTER you walk 10 feet into the men's bathroom. Nice stop-off...
5. Guess what's on the TV at midnight? The Masters Golf Tourney, LIVE!!! Now that beats the Dukes of Hazard dubbed into Spanish (1st night in Argentina). Actually, on 2nd thought...... Anyway, interesting that a South African has the lead...
As for the "cranky" award, I'll fess up and take it. However, I will blame it on a rancid turkey sandwich obtained in Senegal. I felt the worst stomach pain I think I've ever experienced upon landing in JoBurg. It nearly brought me to my knees.
As for the digs, we're set up at a basic beach hotel in Durban. I can tell you we have an ocean view, but not much else yet. Oh, except that the locals make the area an ALL-NIGHT beach party area and it's nearly impossible to sleep. Complete exhaustion helped us last night. I'm thinking some seafood and multiple bottles of local brew will do the trick tonight.
Off to explore the city and meet our GAP Travel Group tonight.
There were a few "high"lights of our air travel:
1. Near brawl between 2 female passengers on the NY-->ATL flight. Catfight!
2. Brian spilling Polynesian Sauce ALL over his pants at Chick-Fil-A in ATL Airport (Terri would report this #1 highlight--she's easily entertained).
3. We're loving the personalized TV's on the seats with video games, trivia, HBO, and ala carte TV programming. Perhaps it's not a new thing, but first time we've seen it.
4. The area to check your guns and ammo in Johannesburg Intl. Airport literally is AFTER you walk 10 feet into the men's bathroom. Nice stop-off...
5. Guess what's on the TV at midnight? The Masters Golf Tourney, LIVE!!! Now that beats the Dukes of Hazard dubbed into Spanish (1st night in Argentina). Actually, on 2nd thought...... Anyway, interesting that a South African has the lead...
As for the "cranky" award, I'll fess up and take it. However, I will blame it on a rancid turkey sandwich obtained in Senegal. I felt the worst stomach pain I think I've ever experienced upon landing in JoBurg. It nearly brought me to my knees.
As for the digs, we're set up at a basic beach hotel in Durban. I can tell you we have an ocean view, but not much else yet. Oh, except that the locals make the area an ALL-NIGHT beach party area and it's nearly impossible to sleep. Complete exhaustion helped us last night. I'm thinking some seafood and multiple bottles of local brew will do the trick tonight.
Off to explore the city and meet our GAP Travel Group tonight.
South Africa: Day 1 - April 9, 2008
This trip is officially 6 weeks long. 3 weeks to pack, and 3 weeks to travel.
Will keep you updated as soon as possible. Place your bets on who's crankier after a 40+ hour air "experience". Smart money would go on Brian.....
Terri is just excited to get her compartment-plate dinners on the plane.
Will keep you updated as soon as possible. Place your bets on who's crankier after a 40+ hour air "experience". Smart money would go on Brian.....
Terri is just excited to get her compartment-plate dinners on the plane.
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