We woke at 4 AM today to catch the sunrise over Angkor Wat. Last night our only option at the Guesthouse was a non-AC room, which will definitely be the last time we do that. The fan provided little comfort and it was a pretty miserable, humid night.
Despite his attempt to ask for more $, our driver picked us up at 5 and delivered us to the temple. The sunrise was dramatic, from my digital screen on the camera, I think anyone could take a picture of this setting worthy of any postcard shop. It was stunning, with the colors changing over the top of the silhouetted temple off in the distance, then the sun rising ultimately over the top. After a breakfast of bread and jelly on the steps of a thousand year old gallery, we met our new guide. We offered the driver a $5 bonus to bring us a GOOD English speaking guide, which we interviewed over the phone yesterday. It was hard to tell, so we just had him come along in hopes it worked out. Well, it didn't. We tried really hard to let him speak, and again, Terri and myself found little value in hiring him. He kept telling us stories about revolting cucumber farmers, and that was the last straw... We even on one occasion found him peeking into another tourists book to tell us things about the temple. That very same book I have in my own backpack, as we've used it the last 2 days to educate ourselves. So that was the end of him. I feel like Donald Trump, as I've been in Cambodia for 3 days and fired 3 people.... We paid him for his work and decided our final destination, Angkor Wat, would best be explored alone with our books. It's unfortunate the luck we've had with guides, as we see many speaking English fluently and relaying many interesting facts about the temples.
We gave the driver a break today between 11 and 2 so he could attend a wedding (which he invited us to as long as we bring gifts--uhhh, yeah, no thanks...), and we were able to escape the heat. It was a great idea to do this, as it's sweltering during the middle of the day. Lunch was great at the Green River Guesthouse, a Chinese Restaurant serving Cambodian cuisine. We spurged today, the bill totalling $8 for the 2 of us.
Upon arriving to pick us up, the driver was a little late, only to find out he's been drinking beer at the wedding... Great.... By the time he admitted this with beer-breath, we were halfway to the temple. This was also after he decided to pull over and pee on the side of the road, with basically no objects to cover himself. Also, a memorable moment. Although Terri now reminds me I've peed outside 3 temples (in the jungle I might add), so I have little I can complain on the issue. Anyway, the rest of our afternoon was spent at the actual Angkor Wat, the namesake of the entire complex. Again, this temple is HUGE. It has 3 different levels made of giant boulders all enscripted beautifully with carvings. The place was crawling with people, and we estimated there must have been 1000 people in this temple alone at one time. Some of them were said to have housed 12,000 people, just to give you perspective on their enormity. I spent some time talking to a monk on top, which was rather interesting. The monks obviously live very disciplined lives, but in Cambodia and in Thailand, they can be very young. Some even as young as 8.
So as the sun set, we decided to go outsid the east entrance and try for a sunset picture. As the colors emerged, we met Sean from Boston, who was enduring a trip that blows away anything I've ever heard. He's taking 4 months to view the "wonders of the world," visiting about 25 countries and seeing everything you can imagine, plus plenty of places I've never heard of. As a rabid Red Sox fan, he's photographing people with his Sox hat on in every location. Pretty funny, and Terri was his subject tonight. The sunset was spectacular (better then sunrise), and we met Sean for Cambodian dinner in town.
I think my favorite moment of the day was when a temple boy asked me in English, You buy my postcards, yes?" I said, "Je parle francais" which is the little French I do remember. Then the kid followed me around for 5 minutes speaking French . I should have learned Swahili in High-School, as it would've proven much more useful in ridding this little guy... These kids learn how to sell in English, French, and Japanese. Unbelievable. Off to bed, as tomorrow is a day to relax and enjoy the town. Without a guide!
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