Feb. 25, 2006 Buenas Aires Day 2 Patagonia Trip

Feb. 25, 2006Finally with a chance to sleep in, Ines picked us up at Noon for a day in Tigres. This is the summerhome area for wealthy Argentinians. It's a spot on the confluence of the Tigres and Pirana Rivers, a delta area that reminds me of Florida or marshy bayou. Upon arrival via car and train, the 3 of us arrived competely starving. Ines suggested a local parilla, which of course means more STEAK! It should be noted, also, that another local dish is provolone cheese that is actually put on the grill and then meshed with olive oil and then some sprinkled basil on top. It is ridiculously tasty, and served in ANY restaurant in the US would be a huge hit. Disregarding our wishes for filet, Ines ordered the table a traditional parilla. It's a gluttonous amount of meat, probably totalling 6-8 pounds. Huge chunks of asado (ribeye), chorizo sausage, sirloin, and then several unidentifiable cuts of meat. They actually serve all of this on your own personal grill with coals underneath, and it's continuing to cook while you dig in. Fear Factor Moment #1 of this trip came right about this time. Ines proceeded to deliver some blood sausage and sausage filled into intestine to our plates. I think either bite was the smallest amount of food possible to put on a fork, but I made it. And yes, I would've lost the prize on Fear Factor. Otherwise, lunch was yummy. And by the way, yes--I've already commited myself to 3 hours of gym-time per day upon arrival. The quantities of food available for next to nothing is overwhelming.While in Tigre, the day was filled with sunshine, a boat cruise, and shopping. The whole area was a little over-the-top as far as touristy stuff, but it was nice. Ines also brought us some Mate, a local drink that is ¨must-have¨ drink of Argentina and Uruguay. It's an actual event to drink Mate, and people will stop their day to circle up and pass it around. The taste is like a sweet tea, and is served hot. People actually carry their little thermos bags around with them all day, as it is that important to them.With just enough time to pick up some local items from the market, we made it back to Buenos Aires to clean up. Dinner tonight is at Cattares, a tapas restaurant and flamenco show. Upon arrival at 10, we were seated about 5 feet from the stage and promptly met a guy at the next table from--you guessed it--Seattle. Weird. Among the other 60-odd people in the cramped room, no other tourists were present. The authentic tapas were great, as was the sangria ($6 a pitcher). The show started after 11, and it was one of the more amazing things I've ever seen. It had a 4-piece band with a flamenco guitarist, bass player, and two singers (one of which sat on and played a wooden box as a drum). This guy was unbelievable. The rhythym and speed he engaged that wooden box is believed only if seen. The guitarist was outstanding, and then the ladies came out. I've not seen true flamenco dancing before, but these chicks strutted about the stage with a THUNDEROUS lower body and an amazingly graceful upper body. It was surreal. The older of the two scowled as she moved about, and at one point she had a look like she was gonna jump on onto our table and kick my a$%. It was about 3 hours of dancing and music while munching on tapas and sipping on sangria. For the money (about $15 each), I felt like I robbed the place. It was the most intense show I've ever seen, bar-none. You'd dare not blink it was so intense, with the crowd hooping, hollering, and clapping the entire time. The owner made several visits to our table to make us feel welcome, and I hope we have a spare night to go back...Walking home at 1 AM, it should be noted what the city looks like. The streets are dark, cobble-stoned in the alleys, and the overall scene is kinda scary. In any big city in the US, you wouldn't be caught in them in dark at all, let alone 1AM. But here, it's totally safe. Tonight was a big Carnivale celebration, and kids and families are out partying without regard for the seemingly scary environment. Even after 1 AM. Even in the flamenco show, we saw several kids below the age of 5 with their parents just hanging out and watching the show. One of them even had a black cowboy hat on, was sipping a whiskey, and smoking a Camel Light. OK, maybe not that far, but they teach em' early here. Buenas noches.