March 3, 2006 El Calafate to Purto Natales
Today we woke up in the much nicer hostel in El Calafate. After a quick breakfast of (again) burnt bread and water, we boarded a nicer bus and headed out to Puerto Natales. Today's busride through the desert was again very scenic, but long. It totaled about 5.5 hours to Puerto Natales, but we had to stop at both the Argentinian and Chilean borders for immigration. The Argentine exit-border patrol were quick and painless, although with a bus of about 50 people, takes about 30 minutes. Four miles down the road we got our first ¨taste of Chile.¨ Due to high winds whipping through the dessert, we all piled into the patrol shack. It took these guys forever. I'm not sure why, as their secret detective was doing a most remarkable job with the baggage inspection. It was pure comedy. First of all, they were supposed to X-Ray and randomly inspect all luggage on the bus. For about 50 people, this is a considerable amount. Not only did they not even open the luggage bins for the bus, they didn't even board the bus. So if you were bringing contraband, it wouldn't take a brain surgeon to simply realize to leave it on your seat. So back to Sherlock, the great baggage inspector... He had a Chilean Soap Opera on the TV literally inches behind him. As he zipped open 1 of the 4 zippers on my backpack, he didn't even look away from the TV, as he briefly put his hand in the bag and then let me go. During Eddie's baggage check, the inspector was turning up the volume because he was annoyed with all the noise. The guy couldn't have been more uninterested in the security of his country. Kinda scary. By the way, we saw some really great scenery on the drive today. Although it's technically desert, it reminds me of travelling through the Southwest US. There's plenty of mountains and water to look at, but the mountains are more jagged with peaks vaulting into the sky. In addition, our group member Paul is a bird enthusiast and has been educating Terri and I on the sights along the way. We saw plenty of buzzard eagles, condors, caracaras, and pink flamingos along the way. No, not plastic flamingos! The real deal. Pretty cool.So another hour of driving has brought us to the small town of Puerto Natales. Given the remote location of the area, I will have to reserve judgment on Chile later. But this town reminds me a lot of some bad places in Mexico. From what I see now, it's pretty dirty and the people seem poorer than in Argentina. We've only done a quick run-through, but the hostel is at least nice and we do have a private room. It's still quite windy, with the temp. probably around 60. I'm feeling even sicker today, and it's been a pretty rough-go the last 24 hours. Due to arriving late from the busride and the long busride today, it's been more than a full day since our least real meal. I devoured a huge burger and salad for lunch, and Terri, some pasta. We'll eat again soon before heading off to the National Park tomorrow (Torres del Paine).The next 3 days we'll be camping in the mountains. The hiking is reported to be treachorous and much more difficult than what we've done. We've been briefed that the hikes will measure 15+ miles per day, with some difficult terrain. They're world-famous and a destination in itself. I'm sure I'll make it fine though, as these next hikes are the primary reason I signed myself up for this. It'll take a lot more than this nasty sinus thing to keep me down... Terri is excited for the hiking too. I'll write again March 6 or 7.UPDATE: After collecting ourselves and settling in a few of us headed out to Don Jorges Restaurant. They had a skinned lamb hoisted up over a wood fire there, as lamb is the specialty of the region. Although prices here were consistent for American food (a little cheaper for the quality), the meal was remarkable. I had the lamb (huge chunks of different cuts), and Terri, an Argentine Bife de Chorizo (huge cut of sirloin steak). Being in Chile, of course they had fresh chili salsa that they served with the bread, and we were introduced to the local drink--Pisco Sours. It's made with brandy, egg white, limes, and sugar. It's quite strong and is sipped in a glass just larger than a shot glass. YUM! We also knocked out 2 bottles of the local Chilean wine, also quite tasty. I'll be looking for it more often when I return. Also of interest was the friendly grillmaster, dressed in traditional Chilean gaucho attire. During the day, he was happy to let us photograph the parilla (meat, grill, and lamb cooking). After cooking all our meat, he came out with his guitar, stood in the middle of the loud restaurant with no microphone, and belted out several tunes with his guitar and flamenco style fingering. Very impressive. Anyway, we left the restaurant more than happy, and although I've not had lamb that good anywhere, I have to admit that Terri's steak was probably even better.
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