Monday, September 06, 2010
Sunday, September 05, 2010
James - Meet Your Weiner Dog Friends
The Dr. let us come home on 9/5/10. After three sleepless nights in the hospital, James met his two new furry friends.
Thursday, September 02, 2010
September 2, 2010 - We Welcome James Christopher Carlson
The latest and greatest adventure!!! James Christopher Carlson Born 9/2/10
Sunday, April 04, 2010
April 4: Departure and Wrap-up
Another great vacation in the books... I'm certainly thankful for not only the opportunity to travel, but also a great country to call home. Although our time away was nothing short of adventurous and fun, staying somewhere like Bali can be a quick reminder of how good we have it. That said, Bali was beautiful, the culture was fascinating, and the people were as friendly as you could hope. In full disclosure, I wasn't expecting the level of poverty and lack of education that I saw. It was a little more Third World than I expected. I'm not sure why I expected more development--perhaps less planning than I normally do for an international trip. This takes nothing away from Indonesia or its culture. I'd recommend Bali to anyone. The land itself is beautiful and very similar to Hawaii. Palm trees, coconuts, and volcanoes. The weather---well, it's scorching hot, humid, and sweaty. The food--far better than expected. I'll be seeking out Indonesian eateries in Seattle. The people, religion, and culture are what makes Bali what it is. They're peaceful, inviting, and pleasant. Hindu religion appears to be a constant force in their lives. We met folks at the touristy resorts, along with cooking with locals in the northern villages. They all shared a common Balinese spirit of making us feel welcome. It's a bit hard to describe, but I recommend you go see for yourself!
Singapore was all about the eats. It's basically a concrete jungle, similar to your giant cities like NYC, Tokyo, or London. Although the adventure can be found here or there, it's really all about the food, the family, the people-watching, and relaxing in a nice hotel. Again, Singapore did not disappoint.
I'm currently sitting in the Tapei Airport, knocking out a 6 hour layover. So time to wrap it up. If you've been following along with the blog, I hope you enjoyed it. I'll leave you with an ongoing list Terri and I compiled along the way:
10 Unique Sightings/Experiences in Bali:
1. 25 year-old mother driving a motorbike at 30 mph--
A. Handle bar in right hand
B. Infant baby cradled in the left arm
C. Not a helmet anywhere
2. Ordered by village police to buy a sarong at Besakih Temple. Ignored them.
3. US $100 bill is worthless because it's older than a 2006 version
4. Where being a millionaire (rupiah) can be erased by a nice dinner and a few cocktails.
5. Where Arak Attack is a tasty concoction next to your plate-- not something ordered by George W.
6. Where you can go to the spa, spend $5, and get a 30-minute vaginal steam that will prevent cancer.
7. SCUBA certification? Not necessary. A broken English 5-minute briefing will do.
8. Balinese Cooking Class:
Step 1: Take your shirt off.
Step 2: Always taste seasoned raw chicken before cooking.
9. BBQ Red Snapper and Prawns at a Jimbaran Sunset Dinner. Serenaded by a 5-piece Balinese Band. Song Selection: Sweet Home Alabama.
10. Where you just might find yourself on the phone saying, "We're ready for our butler Drusadi to come drive us to dinnner."
Thanks Bali and Singapore! Till next time...
Singapore was all about the eats. It's basically a concrete jungle, similar to your giant cities like NYC, Tokyo, or London. Although the adventure can be found here or there, it's really all about the food, the family, the people-watching, and relaxing in a nice hotel. Again, Singapore did not disappoint.
I'm currently sitting in the Tapei Airport, knocking out a 6 hour layover. So time to wrap it up. If you've been following along with the blog, I hope you enjoyed it. I'll leave you with an ongoing list Terri and I compiled along the way:
10 Unique Sightings/Experiences in Bali:
1. 25 year-old mother driving a motorbike at 30 mph--
A. Handle bar in right hand
B. Infant baby cradled in the left arm
C. Not a helmet anywhere
2. Ordered by village police to buy a sarong at Besakih Temple. Ignored them.
3. US $100 bill is worthless because it's older than a 2006 version
4. Where being a millionaire (rupiah) can be erased by a nice dinner and a few cocktails.
5. Where Arak Attack is a tasty concoction next to your plate-- not something ordered by George W.
6. Where you can go to the spa, spend $5, and get a 30-minute vaginal steam that will prevent cancer.
7. SCUBA certification? Not necessary. A broken English 5-minute briefing will do.
8. Balinese Cooking Class:
Step 1: Take your shirt off.
Step 2: Always taste seasoned raw chicken before cooking.
9. BBQ Red Snapper and Prawns at a Jimbaran Sunset Dinner. Serenaded by a 5-piece Balinese Band. Song Selection: Sweet Home Alabama.
10. Where you just might find yourself on the phone saying, "We're ready for our butler Drusadi to come drive us to dinnner."
Thanks Bali and Singapore! Till next time...
Saturday, April 03, 2010
April 3: Singapore, Day 5
One last day on the equator, and guess what? Rain. Rain. Rain. So off to the movies we went. As much as I hate going to the movies in the US, I absolutely love the movie experience in other countries. For example, in Thailand, they have the pledge of allegiance and sing to the King before every showing. Love it! Today's showing was "Clash of the Titans," a movie I've seen no less than a dozen times in my teenage years. It seems every English/History teacher from 1st-12th grade found the old 1981 flick as the only way to teach Greek mythology...
So right off the bat, Singapore has some striking differences at the Cineplex.
1. Box office: The queue was ridiculous long. They have security at the front of the line to let you know when it's your turn, a 50 foot gap, and more security at the ticket counter. No disorder here. No unruliness or you're OUT!
2. Seating: Buy your tickets, PICK YOUR SEATS! That's right. Good Lord, PLEASE let this be the next thing coming to the US. We paid our $27 Singapore ($20 US) for 2 seats for the 3D film. On the LCD screen built into the counter, up pops a real-time seating chart. Red seats are sold already, and white seats are available. We picked two in the dead center of the theater, and couldn't ask for a better spot. I'd be happy to pay a premium to purchase movie tix online in the US, but only if I get my seating choice as well. A lovely benefit of this--no need to arrive 30 minutes early and get visually assaulted by commercial after commercial; your seats are waiting for you as the movie starts.
3. Previews: Some people love them; I loathe them. I feel like I'm held hostage by corporate America every time I go to the movies. Well none of that in Singapore. I think we got 30 seconds of Toy Story 3, and maybe one other. That was it. Once the lights went out, the movie was up and running within 90 seconds.
4. Rating system. Interesting...
PG: Anyone can attend
NC 16: Under 16 not admitted
M 18: Under 18 not admitted
R21: Under 21 not admitted
Also of interest---Movies rated R21 are prohibited in Singapore to be released on video. NOW I get why so many movies go after that US PG-13 rating. Many countries in Asia are quite conservative when it comes to sex/violence/language. I imagine losing these markets worldwide could translate into billions of $ in box office losses.
5. Popcorn: As it should be. I ordered a #1 Combo, which included a medium-sized Pepsi and a medium sized popcorn. By medium-sized, I'm not talking about a mop bucket and a 60 ounce drink. I finished my popcorn just as I gained satiety. $4 US for the combo. If I lived in Singapore, I might go to the movies more than twice a year.
6. Popcorn, Part 2:
BC: "I'll have a #1 combo."
Popcorn Hostess: "Would you like that sweet or salty?"
BC: "HUH?"
Popcorn Hostess: "Sweet, or salty?"
BC: "HUH?"
Repeat 5 more times.
Turns out, salty is regular popcorn (buttery tasting, but not doused with butter most similar in taste/consistency to motor oil). Sweet popcorn is regular popcorn, then draped with some type of sticky honey substance. I opted for salty, but now I'm dying to know how the sweet tastes...
As for the new "Clash," we were impressed by the action, but horribly mystified that the robotic owl was all but left out of the film. Seriously? No owl!!!! Instead, Perseus was led around by some mystical goddess woman, whom of course he fell in love with. Such rubbish. I'm also angered at how he killed Medusa, but I'm digressing here.
The rest of the afternoon was spent completing the "Singapore Chicken Rice Challenge." Hainanese Chicken Rice is a Singaporean food if there ever was one. It's chicken flavored rice, served along with a perfectly succulent srips of chicken breast. The skin is removed just prior to eating. Popular dipping sauces include ginger, chili, and sweet soy. Take a bite of moist chicken, flavored rice, and dip it in all 3 sauces. Ahhhh.... Heaven.
Contender 1:
Terri's family has been going to a spot on Orchard Road for years, known as the Chatterbox. Residing in the Mandarin Oriental Hotel, this upscale diner has been famous for the chicken rice since 1971. They've served it to celebreties, dignitaries, and anyone willing to walk up and pay $25 a plate. This is absolutely an expensive price to pay for one dish. They're either very proud of their chicken rice, or they know people will pay their price in this prime location. There actually was a 10 minute wait for a table. The menu tells the whole story, including how they have their own farm supplying the "superior quality" chickens. Having eaten here last time in Singapore, we knew it was not to be missed. When the food came, the flavors jumped as expected. The chicken was perfect, the rice flavorful, and the sauces as bold as we rememembered. Along with great service in a top-notch hotel, this is the prototype Orchard Road dining exerience. Rating: A
Contender 2:
Immediately after paying our bill, it was off to Chinatown. Destination: Maxwell Road Food Center, and its famous Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken. Exposed to the world on a recent episode of Anthony Bourdain's "No Reservations," Tian Tian was actually sold out minutes before arrival on our first attempt to eat 4 days ago. Today we were prepared, arriving at 3 PM. Tian Tian is located in the middle of a hawker center, about a 10 minute walk from the MRT. It was not easy to find, and you'd need a map and good directions to find the place. Yes, at 3 in the afternoon, I counted the line at 12 people deep. There were about 80 stands in this hawker center, and no other stand had more than 2 or 3 people in line. This is a good sign. Despite a large photo of Bourdain and a review from his show, Terri and I were the only tourists. That is an even BETTER sign. Having just payed $25 for the same exact dish at the Chatterbox, the large-size chicken rice at Tian Tian: $3.30. That is not a typo, and that is in Singapore currency. In US$, that's about $2.50. Although the portion was about 20% smaller, that's a helluva deal for a large portion of rice, chicken breast, and bowl of onion soup. So let's get on with it... Whatever Tian Tian does to their chicken, it was amazing. Clearly more flavor, more moist, and in a word: better. The chicken rice as well, as just a few grains packed the singular taste that makes this dish so good. Although the sauces weren't quite as good (and no ginger), it didn't matter. It was clear we had to re-set our minds as to the best chicken rice in Singapore. Bourdain steered us properly, and the cost was literally 8x less. Rating: A+
With just enough time for a nap and a shower, it was time for... Dinner. Our friend Ian (from Bali trip) met us in the lobby, and Uncle Robert/Aunt Valerie collected us. Destination: Long Beach Seafood Restaurant. I'd be remiss if I failed to reveal just how adventurous it was to ride as a passenger with Robert. At one point, I actually asked, "Ummm, Robert. Did you know we're in the queue for Burger King drive through-right now?" Somehow we all made it safe and sound. The Long Beach boasts the best pepper crab in all of Singapore, and we had the appetite for one last big meal. The place was enormous, hosting table after table of banquet dinners, served family-style. I'd guess there were 300+ people dining at round tables with lazy-susans. Aunt Esther apparently has some pull at the Long Beach, as we had our own private room (along with sliding doors). We all sat down at 7PM, greeted with the information that: "Sorry, we're out of crab." That's pretty much when nuclear war erupted. Aunt Esther is a force to be reckoned with. First of all, the discourse quickly went from English to Mandarin. Aunt Valerie chimed in from time-to-time, and the hostess brought in reinforcements through restaurant management. Esther then delivered a fierce verbal assault that left Ian and myself afraid to look up from our laps... This went on for quite some time, and something seemed to be negotiated. Five minutes later, we were informed our beloved Sri Lankan crabs are being sent by courier from another seafood restaurant. Wow. I've been known to deliver the stinkeye from time-to-time. However, this type of artillery is something that can only be delivered in the form of a petite, feminine assassin.
Ultimately, the Long Beach delivered as promised. Having had pepper crab 2 days ago, this crab was 50% larger and had almost a smoky/peppery flavor to the taste--something completely foreign to me when eating crab. It was fantastic. Another highlight was the drunken prawns. The manager came by with a giant glass bowl of live prawns. Then she pours in a quarter-bottle of brandy, as we watch the little buggars squirm around. Three minutes later, the prawns come back, but about 150 degrees warmer. And completely tasty. Other dishes included roast chicken (awesome), baby gai lan, bean curd, and grouper. Feast is the only word that could describe the scene.
The true highlight of dinner: Terri's 89 year-old grandmother unashamedly stating that nothing tastes good---except for her Guinness. Yes, she still drinks 2 cans of Guinness a day. And has a bigger appetite than most people my age. You go, Ama.
So right off the bat, Singapore has some striking differences at the Cineplex.
1. Box office: The queue was ridiculous long. They have security at the front of the line to let you know when it's your turn, a 50 foot gap, and more security at the ticket counter. No disorder here. No unruliness or you're OUT!
2. Seating: Buy your tickets, PICK YOUR SEATS! That's right. Good Lord, PLEASE let this be the next thing coming to the US. We paid our $27 Singapore ($20 US) for 2 seats for the 3D film. On the LCD screen built into the counter, up pops a real-time seating chart. Red seats are sold already, and white seats are available. We picked two in the dead center of the theater, and couldn't ask for a better spot. I'd be happy to pay a premium to purchase movie tix online in the US, but only if I get my seating choice as well. A lovely benefit of this--no need to arrive 30 minutes early and get visually assaulted by commercial after commercial; your seats are waiting for you as the movie starts.
3. Previews: Some people love them; I loathe them. I feel like I'm held hostage by corporate America every time I go to the movies. Well none of that in Singapore. I think we got 30 seconds of Toy Story 3, and maybe one other. That was it. Once the lights went out, the movie was up and running within 90 seconds.
4. Rating system. Interesting...
PG: Anyone can attend
NC 16: Under 16 not admitted
M 18: Under 18 not admitted
R21: Under 21 not admitted
Also of interest---Movies rated R21 are prohibited in Singapore to be released on video. NOW I get why so many movies go after that US PG-13 rating. Many countries in Asia are quite conservative when it comes to sex/violence/language. I imagine losing these markets worldwide could translate into billions of $ in box office losses.
5. Popcorn: As it should be. I ordered a #1 Combo, which included a medium-sized Pepsi and a medium sized popcorn. By medium-sized, I'm not talking about a mop bucket and a 60 ounce drink. I finished my popcorn just as I gained satiety. $4 US for the combo. If I lived in Singapore, I might go to the movies more than twice a year.
6. Popcorn, Part 2:
BC: "I'll have a #1 combo."
Popcorn Hostess: "Would you like that sweet or salty?"
BC: "HUH?"
Popcorn Hostess: "Sweet, or salty?"
BC: "HUH?"
Repeat 5 more times.
Turns out, salty is regular popcorn (buttery tasting, but not doused with butter most similar in taste/consistency to motor oil). Sweet popcorn is regular popcorn, then draped with some type of sticky honey substance. I opted for salty, but now I'm dying to know how the sweet tastes...
As for the new "Clash," we were impressed by the action, but horribly mystified that the robotic owl was all but left out of the film. Seriously? No owl!!!! Instead, Perseus was led around by some mystical goddess woman, whom of course he fell in love with. Such rubbish. I'm also angered at how he killed Medusa, but I'm digressing here.
The rest of the afternoon was spent completing the "Singapore Chicken Rice Challenge." Hainanese Chicken Rice is a Singaporean food if there ever was one. It's chicken flavored rice, served along with a perfectly succulent srips of chicken breast. The skin is removed just prior to eating. Popular dipping sauces include ginger, chili, and sweet soy. Take a bite of moist chicken, flavored rice, and dip it in all 3 sauces. Ahhhh.... Heaven.
Contender 1:
Terri's family has been going to a spot on Orchard Road for years, known as the Chatterbox. Residing in the Mandarin Oriental Hotel, this upscale diner has been famous for the chicken rice since 1971. They've served it to celebreties, dignitaries, and anyone willing to walk up and pay $25 a plate. This is absolutely an expensive price to pay for one dish. They're either very proud of their chicken rice, or they know people will pay their price in this prime location. There actually was a 10 minute wait for a table. The menu tells the whole story, including how they have their own farm supplying the "superior quality" chickens. Having eaten here last time in Singapore, we knew it was not to be missed. When the food came, the flavors jumped as expected. The chicken was perfect, the rice flavorful, and the sauces as bold as we rememembered. Along with great service in a top-notch hotel, this is the prototype Orchard Road dining exerience. Rating: A
Contender 2:
Immediately after paying our bill, it was off to Chinatown. Destination: Maxwell Road Food Center, and its famous Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken. Exposed to the world on a recent episode of Anthony Bourdain's "No Reservations," Tian Tian was actually sold out minutes before arrival on our first attempt to eat 4 days ago. Today we were prepared, arriving at 3 PM. Tian Tian is located in the middle of a hawker center, about a 10 minute walk from the MRT. It was not easy to find, and you'd need a map and good directions to find the place. Yes, at 3 in the afternoon, I counted the line at 12 people deep. There were about 80 stands in this hawker center, and no other stand had more than 2 or 3 people in line. This is a good sign. Despite a large photo of Bourdain and a review from his show, Terri and I were the only tourists. That is an even BETTER sign. Having just payed $25 for the same exact dish at the Chatterbox, the large-size chicken rice at Tian Tian: $3.30. That is not a typo, and that is in Singapore currency. In US$, that's about $2.50. Although the portion was about 20% smaller, that's a helluva deal for a large portion of rice, chicken breast, and bowl of onion soup. So let's get on with it... Whatever Tian Tian does to their chicken, it was amazing. Clearly more flavor, more moist, and in a word: better. The chicken rice as well, as just a few grains packed the singular taste that makes this dish so good. Although the sauces weren't quite as good (and no ginger), it didn't matter. It was clear we had to re-set our minds as to the best chicken rice in Singapore. Bourdain steered us properly, and the cost was literally 8x less. Rating: A+
With just enough time for a nap and a shower, it was time for... Dinner. Our friend Ian (from Bali trip) met us in the lobby, and Uncle Robert/Aunt Valerie collected us. Destination: Long Beach Seafood Restaurant. I'd be remiss if I failed to reveal just how adventurous it was to ride as a passenger with Robert. At one point, I actually asked, "Ummm, Robert. Did you know we're in the queue for Burger King drive through-right now?" Somehow we all made it safe and sound. The Long Beach boasts the best pepper crab in all of Singapore, and we had the appetite for one last big meal. The place was enormous, hosting table after table of banquet dinners, served family-style. I'd guess there were 300+ people dining at round tables with lazy-susans. Aunt Esther apparently has some pull at the Long Beach, as we had our own private room (along with sliding doors). We all sat down at 7PM, greeted with the information that: "Sorry, we're out of crab." That's pretty much when nuclear war erupted. Aunt Esther is a force to be reckoned with. First of all, the discourse quickly went from English to Mandarin. Aunt Valerie chimed in from time-to-time, and the hostess brought in reinforcements through restaurant management. Esther then delivered a fierce verbal assault that left Ian and myself afraid to look up from our laps... This went on for quite some time, and something seemed to be negotiated. Five minutes later, we were informed our beloved Sri Lankan crabs are being sent by courier from another seafood restaurant. Wow. I've been known to deliver the stinkeye from time-to-time. However, this type of artillery is something that can only be delivered in the form of a petite, feminine assassin.
Ultimately, the Long Beach delivered as promised. Having had pepper crab 2 days ago, this crab was 50% larger and had almost a smoky/peppery flavor to the taste--something completely foreign to me when eating crab. It was fantastic. Another highlight was the drunken prawns. The manager came by with a giant glass bowl of live prawns. Then she pours in a quarter-bottle of brandy, as we watch the little buggars squirm around. Three minutes later, the prawns come back, but about 150 degrees warmer. And completely tasty. Other dishes included roast chicken (awesome), baby gai lan, bean curd, and grouper. Feast is the only word that could describe the scene.
The true highlight of dinner: Terri's 89 year-old grandmother unashamedly stating that nothing tastes good---except for her Guinness. Yes, she still drinks 2 cans of Guinness a day. And has a bigger appetite than most people my age. You go, Ama.
Friday, April 02, 2010
April 2: Singapore, Day 4
After yesterday's foodie adventures, we needed a change of pace. Although breakfast again was Breadtalk, the doughnut shop was open today. I had a crazy strawberry-frosted doughnut with crunchy chocolate balls on top--flatly disappointing. Terri's belgian chocolate/cappucino cream doughnut also missed the mark.
Our next stop was Sentosa Island, as it was time to play "the tourist." Sentosa is a mix of Universal Studios (they just opened one but it's completely sold out), Las Vegas casino (stock full of Chihuly glass), amusement park, and beaches. The "Images of Singapore" exhibit was like something you'd see at Epcot, both entertaining and educational. Someone turned the heat up today, as it was oppressively hot. Basically we just walked around, seeking the next area of air-conditioned refuge.
After yesterday, we'd both hit our threshold of Asian eats. We agreed we need something that tastes like American food. Subway did the trick, and it tasted reassuringly similar to your neighborhood Subway shop. My only complaint was my "sandwich artist's" freestyle manner of adding veggies and various condiments. I held her in check the best I could, especially with the mayo. That nastiness will ruin any art project.
So if we're going to be American today, how about a drink and a snack at an American bar? Since the only one in Seattle closed down last year, Chili's was like a beacon of light in the 95 degree heat. Last time through, we had the original Singapore Sling at Raffle's hotel. Sorry Raffles, but Chili's version was the best ever. Perhaps because the price was $10 instead of $28. So sad that it's easier to get good queso dip in Singapore than it is in Seattle. Come on Chili's--give our southern food appetites some loving up in the PAC NW....
Next stop was the Sentosa Resort Casino. The big new casino on the island, we were curious to see if we could take some money from the island. Singapore has got their gambling laws in check. To keep out the riff-raff and the poor who shouldn't be gambling in the first place, they've imposed a $100 entrance fee to any local who wishes to gamble. Yikes. That will keep the nickel slot players away! Additionally, on a 10 foot high sign, they imposed three additional rules:
1. NO FLIP FLOPS. Ummm, yeah. Terri's wearing flip flops.
2. NO SHORTS. Hmmm, we've got sort a problem here. I'm wearing shorts.
3. MUST HAVE PASSPORTS. Uh huh. 3 for 3. Those are back at the Fairmont.
Crap. I should've just had another Singapore Sling and gotten too drunk to gamble.
After a nice AC break at the hotel, it was back to Orchard Road for dinner. Orchard Road is the central hub of urban life in Singapore. If you're interested in block after block of 5 story malls with boutique clothing for 90 pound females, then this is your place. In my case... Not interested.
Dinner was another spot recommended by Anthony Bourdain's Singapore episode: Straits Kitchen at the Grand Hyatt. Well done, Anthony. We often watch these shows on TV, pondering.... Hmmmm, I wonder if this place really is THAT good, or perhaps just cause the guy got a free meal and he has 30 minutes to fill? Well, Bourdain hit the nail on the head. First of all, there were very few tourists there. Almost everyone looked local. That's a good sign, especially at a downtown hotel. The buffet at the Hyatt had everything you can ask for in Singaporean cuisine. Everything. Chli Crab? Check. Terri's beloved Prawn Noodles? Check. A full-on station of Indian food? Check. All told, I counted 52 individual dishes, spread throughout 7 stations. That doesn't count the dessert station, nor does it count the ice-cream. Yes, they had durian ice cream. Yes, I tried it. And yes, it still smells like garbage in ice-cream form.
After dinner, we ran into Ian (new friend we traveled with in Bali) in the underground. Crazy. City of millions of people, and we see someone we met in Bali in the subway. Ian (from UK) showed off his outrageous new sunburn from the Gili Islands, and we made dinner plans for tomorrow. Should be a fun last day in Singapore.
G'night, everybody. I've brought Terri to the internet cafe tonight to keep the tranny away on the walk home. The walk back should hopefully be uneventful.
Our next stop was Sentosa Island, as it was time to play "the tourist." Sentosa is a mix of Universal Studios (they just opened one but it's completely sold out), Las Vegas casino (stock full of Chihuly glass), amusement park, and beaches. The "Images of Singapore" exhibit was like something you'd see at Epcot, both entertaining and educational. Someone turned the heat up today, as it was oppressively hot. Basically we just walked around, seeking the next area of air-conditioned refuge.
After yesterday, we'd both hit our threshold of Asian eats. We agreed we need something that tastes like American food. Subway did the trick, and it tasted reassuringly similar to your neighborhood Subway shop. My only complaint was my "sandwich artist's" freestyle manner of adding veggies and various condiments. I held her in check the best I could, especially with the mayo. That nastiness will ruin any art project.
So if we're going to be American today, how about a drink and a snack at an American bar? Since the only one in Seattle closed down last year, Chili's was like a beacon of light in the 95 degree heat. Last time through, we had the original Singapore Sling at Raffle's hotel. Sorry Raffles, but Chili's version was the best ever. Perhaps because the price was $10 instead of $28. So sad that it's easier to get good queso dip in Singapore than it is in Seattle. Come on Chili's--give our southern food appetites some loving up in the PAC NW....
Next stop was the Sentosa Resort Casino. The big new casino on the island, we were curious to see if we could take some money from the island. Singapore has got their gambling laws in check. To keep out the riff-raff and the poor who shouldn't be gambling in the first place, they've imposed a $100 entrance fee to any local who wishes to gamble. Yikes. That will keep the nickel slot players away! Additionally, on a 10 foot high sign, they imposed three additional rules:
1. NO FLIP FLOPS. Ummm, yeah. Terri's wearing flip flops.
2. NO SHORTS. Hmmm, we've got sort a problem here. I'm wearing shorts.
3. MUST HAVE PASSPORTS. Uh huh. 3 for 3. Those are back at the Fairmont.
Crap. I should've just had another Singapore Sling and gotten too drunk to gamble.
After a nice AC break at the hotel, it was back to Orchard Road for dinner. Orchard Road is the central hub of urban life in Singapore. If you're interested in block after block of 5 story malls with boutique clothing for 90 pound females, then this is your place. In my case... Not interested.
Dinner was another spot recommended by Anthony Bourdain's Singapore episode: Straits Kitchen at the Grand Hyatt. Well done, Anthony. We often watch these shows on TV, pondering.... Hmmmm, I wonder if this place really is THAT good, or perhaps just cause the guy got a free meal and he has 30 minutes to fill? Well, Bourdain hit the nail on the head. First of all, there were very few tourists there. Almost everyone looked local. That's a good sign, especially at a downtown hotel. The buffet at the Hyatt had everything you can ask for in Singaporean cuisine. Everything. Chli Crab? Check. Terri's beloved Prawn Noodles? Check. A full-on station of Indian food? Check. All told, I counted 52 individual dishes, spread throughout 7 stations. That doesn't count the dessert station, nor does it count the ice-cream. Yes, they had durian ice cream. Yes, I tried it. And yes, it still smells like garbage in ice-cream form.
After dinner, we ran into Ian (new friend we traveled with in Bali) in the underground. Crazy. City of millions of people, and we see someone we met in Bali in the subway. Ian (from UK) showed off his outrageous new sunburn from the Gili Islands, and we made dinner plans for tomorrow. Should be a fun last day in Singapore.
G'night, everybody. I've brought Terri to the internet cafe tonight to keep the tranny away on the walk home. The walk back should hopefully be uneventful.
Thursday, April 01, 2010
April 1: Singapore, Day 3
Today could be most likened to being on an episode of Bizarre Foods: Singapore. This leg of the trip certainly has a culinary theme, as the two main highlights of this city/country are eating and shopping. Seeing as my bags are at capacity (and nothing would really fit me here anyway), sharing food with family has been the primary objective.
We ventured downstairs into the underground for brekkie, finding Terri's beloved Breadtalk. She had her pork floss bun (it's as disgusting as it sounds), and I had a chicken curry bun and a chocolate croissant. We later came across a Singaporean doughnut shop, but shockingly the place DOESN'T OPEN UNTIL 10 AM. Seriously? A doughnut shop that isn't open for breakfast? Sorry Singapore, but that's simply unacceptable.
We again met Ama and Aunt Esther for lunch, this time at Jalan Sultan Prawn Mee. The draw: Terri's beloved shrimp noodles. This dish has a shrimp-based broth with yellow noodles, as well as a few veggies (bean sprouts and chilis) thrown in. Whole prawns were perfectly cooked, bountiful, and ready to be devoured. It's been a wonderful advantage having Terri's family show us around. Basically Terri is picking the food, and they take us to the best spot in the city for that particular item. While I can't say prawn noodles were my favorite, Terri was in heaven. Seeing as she gets them maybe once every 2-4 years, I'm glad we went.
Some afternoon shopping at Tao Payoh Center produced a bag full of foods and jellies that I can neither pronounce nor wish to eat. They will most definitely land onto our pantry shelf in our kitchen I've labeled, "Land of Confusion." That's Terri's domain, and I stay away. I don't even let things I eat reside on that shelf. I want no part of it.
On the way home, we stopped at Auntie Annie's house for a visit. It was nice to see her, as she hosted our wedding banquet at her house for our last visit to Singapore. As it was, she had a pot of Bird's Nest Soup waiting for us. If you haven't heard of this, it's actually a bit of a delicacy in this part of the world (and quite expensive--about $50 to $100 a bowl in restaurants). It's made by harvesting the nests of the swallow bird. The swallow (or swift) creates its nest by using twigs and its saliva to glue them together. Ancient Chinese tradition reveals that to make the soup, you'd place the nests in a pot of boiling water or chicken broth. This will release the saliva/glue from the sticks. Once the nest is removed, the resulting water/saliva is mixed with a few more ingredients. And voila, you have Bird's Nest Soup! Once you get your mind over the fact that you're eating bird spit, it wasn't all that bad. The saliva was gelatinous and gummy, but it had a sweet taste to it with the warm broth. I wouldn't order it in a restaurant, but I'm proud to say I got my entire bowl down.
After some R+R and the hotel, it was back at it for the next round of interesting eats. Tonight was fish-head curry, as well as fried oat prawns and pepper crab. Let's take them one-by-one.
1. Fish Head Curry: Imagine the biggest fish head you've ever seen, a giant squid-looking eye, and piranha-like teeth jutting in all directions. Well, that's pretty much it. The fish head was big enough to cover your average size dinner plate, but a delicious spicy curry accompanied. The cheek meat was pretty tasty, and the curry went great with rice. I was offered the eyeball, but politely passed. Terri's Ama wasted no time, and you didn't need to ask her twice. The 90 year-old took it down like she was popping in a french fry. Damn, it was impressive.
2. Fried Oat Prawns: Pretty much self explanatory. Giant prawns breaded with oats, then deep-fried. Although the breading comes off with the shell, the oat taste remains with the meat. Loved it, especially with the fish-head curry sauce.
3. Pepper Crab: Pepper and Chili crab are usually served as a specialty at many seafood restaurants. Pepper crab is based more on the spice, not the chili pepper. I've had chili crab before, but I was shocked to learn the pepper crab was far tastier. It also reinforced I have no idea what I'm doing with this type of Sri Lankan crab, as I managed to get it all over myself. I'll do my best to keep Terri from posting those photos.
After dinner we all piled into the car in search of dessert. Auntie Esther knew exactly where to go. I've seen this food on many shows, yet to encounter it eye-to-eye. It's the spinous durian fruit, a variety they've appropriately named "Combat Durian." This thing is about the size of a small watermelon. It has porcupine-like spines around the entire sphere. We all pondered if in-fact anyone has ever been killed by one of these landing on their heads. They're heavy and the spines are very sharp. It's a fruit that appears to have come from the depths of hell. And not only due to appearance. The durian stinks. I mean it REALLY stinks. For example, you'll get a $500 fine if you're caught with one in the subway. Hotels do not allow you to bring them inside. We bought two of them, placed them in the trunk, and we could smell them THROUGH THE BACK SEAT as we drove to Ama's flat. The smell, you ask? My best description would be this: Raw chicken meat, thrown in a garbage can, forgotten about for two days, and then open it and take a big whiff. That's pretty much it. As disgusting as the smell is, the texture matches. It's slimy, pasty, and nearly gelatinous. The stench remains on your hands after touching the white, fleshy seeds (about the size of a crescent-shaped lime). Terri grabbed one, went straight to her mouth, and put it down like a champ. Now, my turn. Yeah. It didn't go so well. I had a bitter seed, and it tasted like a combination of sauteed onions and that bitter, rotten chicken described earlier. I don't think in my entire life I've eaten anything so foul. Regardless, I can checkmark that food. Durian. Check. And done. Shower on the way and double mouthwash rinse after toothbrushing. Good night, people. I've got work to do.
Addendum: While walking to the hotel from writing this blog entry, I was approached by a person of questionable gender. Actually, I'm quite certain of gender, but the feminine clothing didn't match the man-hands and adam's apple on his/her neck. I won't go into details, but certain services were offered, especially some type of nefarious massage that promised exciting conclusions. Yes, "bizarre" is the word of the day.
We ventured downstairs into the underground for brekkie, finding Terri's beloved Breadtalk. She had her pork floss bun (it's as disgusting as it sounds), and I had a chicken curry bun and a chocolate croissant. We later came across a Singaporean doughnut shop, but shockingly the place DOESN'T OPEN UNTIL 10 AM. Seriously? A doughnut shop that isn't open for breakfast? Sorry Singapore, but that's simply unacceptable.
We again met Ama and Aunt Esther for lunch, this time at Jalan Sultan Prawn Mee. The draw: Terri's beloved shrimp noodles. This dish has a shrimp-based broth with yellow noodles, as well as a few veggies (bean sprouts and chilis) thrown in. Whole prawns were perfectly cooked, bountiful, and ready to be devoured. It's been a wonderful advantage having Terri's family show us around. Basically Terri is picking the food, and they take us to the best spot in the city for that particular item. While I can't say prawn noodles were my favorite, Terri was in heaven. Seeing as she gets them maybe once every 2-4 years, I'm glad we went.
Some afternoon shopping at Tao Payoh Center produced a bag full of foods and jellies that I can neither pronounce nor wish to eat. They will most definitely land onto our pantry shelf in our kitchen I've labeled, "Land of Confusion." That's Terri's domain, and I stay away. I don't even let things I eat reside on that shelf. I want no part of it.
On the way home, we stopped at Auntie Annie's house for a visit. It was nice to see her, as she hosted our wedding banquet at her house for our last visit to Singapore. As it was, she had a pot of Bird's Nest Soup waiting for us. If you haven't heard of this, it's actually a bit of a delicacy in this part of the world (and quite expensive--about $50 to $100 a bowl in restaurants). It's made by harvesting the nests of the swallow bird. The swallow (or swift) creates its nest by using twigs and its saliva to glue them together. Ancient Chinese tradition reveals that to make the soup, you'd place the nests in a pot of boiling water or chicken broth. This will release the saliva/glue from the sticks. Once the nest is removed, the resulting water/saliva is mixed with a few more ingredients. And voila, you have Bird's Nest Soup! Once you get your mind over the fact that you're eating bird spit, it wasn't all that bad. The saliva was gelatinous and gummy, but it had a sweet taste to it with the warm broth. I wouldn't order it in a restaurant, but I'm proud to say I got my entire bowl down.
After some R+R and the hotel, it was back at it for the next round of interesting eats. Tonight was fish-head curry, as well as fried oat prawns and pepper crab. Let's take them one-by-one.
1. Fish Head Curry: Imagine the biggest fish head you've ever seen, a giant squid-looking eye, and piranha-like teeth jutting in all directions. Well, that's pretty much it. The fish head was big enough to cover your average size dinner plate, but a delicious spicy curry accompanied. The cheek meat was pretty tasty, and the curry went great with rice. I was offered the eyeball, but politely passed. Terri's Ama wasted no time, and you didn't need to ask her twice. The 90 year-old took it down like she was popping in a french fry. Damn, it was impressive.
2. Fried Oat Prawns: Pretty much self explanatory. Giant prawns breaded with oats, then deep-fried. Although the breading comes off with the shell, the oat taste remains with the meat. Loved it, especially with the fish-head curry sauce.
3. Pepper Crab: Pepper and Chili crab are usually served as a specialty at many seafood restaurants. Pepper crab is based more on the spice, not the chili pepper. I've had chili crab before, but I was shocked to learn the pepper crab was far tastier. It also reinforced I have no idea what I'm doing with this type of Sri Lankan crab, as I managed to get it all over myself. I'll do my best to keep Terri from posting those photos.
After dinner we all piled into the car in search of dessert. Auntie Esther knew exactly where to go. I've seen this food on many shows, yet to encounter it eye-to-eye. It's the spinous durian fruit, a variety they've appropriately named "Combat Durian." This thing is about the size of a small watermelon. It has porcupine-like spines around the entire sphere. We all pondered if in-fact anyone has ever been killed by one of these landing on their heads. They're heavy and the spines are very sharp. It's a fruit that appears to have come from the depths of hell. And not only due to appearance. The durian stinks. I mean it REALLY stinks. For example, you'll get a $500 fine if you're caught with one in the subway. Hotels do not allow you to bring them inside. We bought two of them, placed them in the trunk, and we could smell them THROUGH THE BACK SEAT as we drove to Ama's flat. The smell, you ask? My best description would be this: Raw chicken meat, thrown in a garbage can, forgotten about for two days, and then open it and take a big whiff. That's pretty much it. As disgusting as the smell is, the texture matches. It's slimy, pasty, and nearly gelatinous. The stench remains on your hands after touching the white, fleshy seeds (about the size of a crescent-shaped lime). Terri grabbed one, went straight to her mouth, and put it down like a champ. Now, my turn. Yeah. It didn't go so well. I had a bitter seed, and it tasted like a combination of sauteed onions and that bitter, rotten chicken described earlier. I don't think in my entire life I've eaten anything so foul. Regardless, I can checkmark that food. Durian. Check. And done. Shower on the way and double mouthwash rinse after toothbrushing. Good night, people. I've got work to do.
Addendum: While walking to the hotel from writing this blog entry, I was approached by a person of questionable gender. Actually, I'm quite certain of gender, but the feminine clothing didn't match the man-hands and adam's apple on his/her neck. I won't go into details, but certain services were offered, especially some type of nefarious massage that promised exciting conclusions. Yes, "bizarre" is the word of the day.
March 31: Singapore Day 2
Uh-oh. Man-cold in full effect. What a time to get congested and lose my appetite/sense-of-smell. We had some energy bars for brekkie, and tried to sweat it out in the gym. What a foreign idea. A workout? It actually felt good, as did reading the paper at poolside.
I love the international papers--especially how they portray the US. Things aren't quite glossed over as much. Reporting appears to be without bias or the political blinders of the paper's ownership. Maybe it's just that we live in uber-liberal Seattle. But Obama and his recent work doesn't go without criticism in the International Herald Tribune. Soooo.... I guess drilling in Alaska and in the Gulf actually IS a good idea, huh Obama?!?!?!?!? I'm no Palin fan, but I guess ideals change once you become President... I think it's called reality. Drill, Barack, Drill!
We met Terri's Ama (Grandma) and Aunt Esther for lunch, which was appropriately at the "Rendezvous Hotel." Their restaurant features Indonesian curries, supporting chicken, prawns, fish, and beef rendang (my fave). Lord, I wish I could take the restaurant back to Seattle with me. The curries were fantastic. The meats delicate enough to cut with a fork. And the Tiger beer flowing as it should... I'm sure it's doing wonders for my cold too.
After a much needed nap (AC on high), dinner was at another local favorite: The Satay Club. This is actually just a hawker center, with a large open area of plastic tables and stools. Stalls are numbered 1-20, and you order the satays and dishes from whichever you wish. We had all the best eats, including satays with mutton, chicken, the the best peanut sauce on the planet. Sides included some Chinese noodles, gai lan, and a dish Aunt Esther apparently ordered especially for me: Mutton soup. At first I was scared. Then, I saw Esther's great wisdom. In a word, it was phenomenal. I'm salivating currently as I write about it. I wish we could go back, but alas, there are many more foods to try.
In case you didn't notice, Day 2 of Singapore basically goes like this.
Breakfast. Workout. Pool. Rest. Lunch. Nap. Dinner. Sleep.
This vacation continues to keep getting better and better... G'night!
I love the international papers--especially how they portray the US. Things aren't quite glossed over as much. Reporting appears to be without bias or the political blinders of the paper's ownership. Maybe it's just that we live in uber-liberal Seattle. But Obama and his recent work doesn't go without criticism in the International Herald Tribune. Soooo.... I guess drilling in Alaska and in the Gulf actually IS a good idea, huh Obama?!?!?!?!? I'm no Palin fan, but I guess ideals change once you become President... I think it's called reality. Drill, Barack, Drill!
We met Terri's Ama (Grandma) and Aunt Esther for lunch, which was appropriately at the "Rendezvous Hotel." Their restaurant features Indonesian curries, supporting chicken, prawns, fish, and beef rendang (my fave). Lord, I wish I could take the restaurant back to Seattle with me. The curries were fantastic. The meats delicate enough to cut with a fork. And the Tiger beer flowing as it should... I'm sure it's doing wonders for my cold too.
After a much needed nap (AC on high), dinner was at another local favorite: The Satay Club. This is actually just a hawker center, with a large open area of plastic tables and stools. Stalls are numbered 1-20, and you order the satays and dishes from whichever you wish. We had all the best eats, including satays with mutton, chicken, the the best peanut sauce on the planet. Sides included some Chinese noodles, gai lan, and a dish Aunt Esther apparently ordered especially for me: Mutton soup. At first I was scared. Then, I saw Esther's great wisdom. In a word, it was phenomenal. I'm salivating currently as I write about it. I wish we could go back, but alas, there are many more foods to try.
In case you didn't notice, Day 2 of Singapore basically goes like this.
Breakfast. Workout. Pool. Rest. Lunch. Nap. Dinner. Sleep.
This vacation continues to keep getting better and better... G'night!
March 30: Bali to Singapore
Breakfast was worth mentioning today. Included with the villa was breakfast at Dava, a restaurant that would be considered first rate anywhere. Juices were fresh-squeezed. Tasty breads and muffins made our way to the table by the handful. I had an amazing salad including citrus fruit, dragonfruit, avocados, and sprinkled with some fresh mint leaves. That dish should win some kind of award. Next up, steel cut oats with palm sugar and raisins. To top it off, walnut and banana pancakes, Vermont maple syrup, and a side of apple-smoked bacon. REAL bacon, not this English rasher bacon we've been eating for the last week. Butler, please bring the wheelbarrow to get me back to the villa...
Sad to leave Bali behind, it was time to head to the airport. While Bali itself is rather inexpensive, the airport gets you coming and going. $25 entry fee. $15 exit fee. I have no idea if the U.S. charges these lovely tariffs. But that's gotta be one way to pay off this new Health Care package.
The flight was 2.5 hours on Singapore Airlines, perhaps the most comfortable and relaxing airline on planet. Cool towels on takeoff. Good food. Sizable seats. Lovely air hostesses. I'm thinking this is what air travel was like in the US 60 years ago.
Much thanks to our friend Kerensa, who got us the employee rate hookup at the Fairmont Singapore. Very nice room, right across the street from the Raffles (of Singapore Sling fame). Last time in Singapore, we were a 20 minute walk to the MRT (subway). This time, about 5 minutes from room to train. Love it!
Let me first explain Singapore. Terri's family is originally from here. While her brother and parents are in the US, her extended family (including 90 y.o. grandmother remain in Singapore). So what better reason to enjoy air-conditioned everything, world-class eats, and of course, family giving us the grand tour?
Back to hotel location. I think Terri is most excited due to the fact that a "Breadtalk" is below in the underground mall. I'd be remiss by not sharing that basically ALL of Singapore is an underground mall. You can buy just about anything at every MRT station. While I'm disgusted with Terri and her excitement for foods such as pork floss (don't ask), she's in heaven. And I'm sure we'll go over the baggage weight limit upon return. Mostly with foods illegal for entry to the USA.
With just enough time for dinner, we have a long list of places to check off. We thought we'd start with a place we saw on a recent episode of Anthony Bourdain's "No Reservations." While it's probably not a good idea to take dining suggestions in Singapore from a white man, it appeared he was directed to this place from locals. And he raved about it. So we showed up to the Maxwell Food Center around 6:30, and it took us a while to find the right stall. The place was a good ol' fashioned hawker center, with the most random foods going in all directions. Want some pig organ soup? Got it. Shark head curry? Got it. So our destination was Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice. Chicken rice is a "Singaporean food" if there ever was one, although the place truly is a melting pot of Malay, Indonesian, Indian, SE Asian, and Chinese cuisine. So we spotted the stand, with Bourdain's blown-up picture duct taped to the sign. The affable Chinese man on the show was right in place. He immediately saw us as Bourdain fans (which is a stretch to say the least--far more fond of Andrew Zimmern). Sadly, he just gave out his last chicken rice literally 15 seconds before we arrived. It's 6:30 PM, and the place is sold out. Fantastic. I guess the place is the real deal. He was nice enough to give us a free sample of his famous rice, but we'll have to come back another day---for lunch.
Dinner ultimately was nasi lemak, a favorite of Terri's. It included a terribly dried out fish of some alien species. Terrible. But the coconut flavor rice was fantastic, as well as the sambal. I ordered a sweet potato/curry pastry, which was something I'll be tracking down again.
Back at the hotel, we decided dinner just didn't cut it. It took nothing but a glance down the street to find the nearest golden arches. You got it---Round 2 of the International McDonald's taste-test. Long story short, Singapore McDonald's cheeseburger was dead-on exact, as were the fries. They definitely had different buns than Bali, but I could see no difference than the US. Three things of note:
1. They had a Double Big Mac Sandwich. Must've been 6 inches high. No, I didn't dare.
2. A couple of Brits were there as well, doing their own version of the McDee's Challenge. Was interesting listening to them as well, as they had never in their life seen a standard Big Mac. They actually were taking photos of the menu photo.
3. Mc-Delivery. Lord, please let this stay in Asia. Both Bali and Singapore have guys on scooters that will deliver your McDonald's order to your home. Horrifying.
Sad to leave Bali behind, it was time to head to the airport. While Bali itself is rather inexpensive, the airport gets you coming and going. $25 entry fee. $15 exit fee. I have no idea if the U.S. charges these lovely tariffs. But that's gotta be one way to pay off this new Health Care package.
The flight was 2.5 hours on Singapore Airlines, perhaps the most comfortable and relaxing airline on planet. Cool towels on takeoff. Good food. Sizable seats. Lovely air hostesses. I'm thinking this is what air travel was like in the US 60 years ago.
Much thanks to our friend Kerensa, who got us the employee rate hookup at the Fairmont Singapore. Very nice room, right across the street from the Raffles (of Singapore Sling fame). Last time in Singapore, we were a 20 minute walk to the MRT (subway). This time, about 5 minutes from room to train. Love it!
Let me first explain Singapore. Terri's family is originally from here. While her brother and parents are in the US, her extended family (including 90 y.o. grandmother remain in Singapore). So what better reason to enjoy air-conditioned everything, world-class eats, and of course, family giving us the grand tour?
Back to hotel location. I think Terri is most excited due to the fact that a "Breadtalk" is below in the underground mall. I'd be remiss by not sharing that basically ALL of Singapore is an underground mall. You can buy just about anything at every MRT station. While I'm disgusted with Terri and her excitement for foods such as pork floss (don't ask), she's in heaven. And I'm sure we'll go over the baggage weight limit upon return. Mostly with foods illegal for entry to the USA.
With just enough time for dinner, we have a long list of places to check off. We thought we'd start with a place we saw on a recent episode of Anthony Bourdain's "No Reservations." While it's probably not a good idea to take dining suggestions in Singapore from a white man, it appeared he was directed to this place from locals. And he raved about it. So we showed up to the Maxwell Food Center around 6:30, and it took us a while to find the right stall. The place was a good ol' fashioned hawker center, with the most random foods going in all directions. Want some pig organ soup? Got it. Shark head curry? Got it. So our destination was Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice. Chicken rice is a "Singaporean food" if there ever was one, although the place truly is a melting pot of Malay, Indonesian, Indian, SE Asian, and Chinese cuisine. So we spotted the stand, with Bourdain's blown-up picture duct taped to the sign. The affable Chinese man on the show was right in place. He immediately saw us as Bourdain fans (which is a stretch to say the least--far more fond of Andrew Zimmern). Sadly, he just gave out his last chicken rice literally 15 seconds before we arrived. It's 6:30 PM, and the place is sold out. Fantastic. I guess the place is the real deal. He was nice enough to give us a free sample of his famous rice, but we'll have to come back another day---for lunch.
Dinner ultimately was nasi lemak, a favorite of Terri's. It included a terribly dried out fish of some alien species. Terrible. But the coconut flavor rice was fantastic, as well as the sambal. I ordered a sweet potato/curry pastry, which was something I'll be tracking down again.
Back at the hotel, we decided dinner just didn't cut it. It took nothing but a glance down the street to find the nearest golden arches. You got it---Round 2 of the International McDonald's taste-test. Long story short, Singapore McDonald's cheeseburger was dead-on exact, as were the fries. They definitely had different buns than Bali, but I could see no difference than the US. Three things of note:
1. They had a Double Big Mac Sandwich. Must've been 6 inches high. No, I didn't dare.
2. A couple of Brits were there as well, doing their own version of the McDee's Challenge. Was interesting listening to them as well, as they had never in their life seen a standard Big Mac. They actually were taking photos of the menu photo.
3. Mc-Delivery. Lord, please let this stay in Asia. Both Bali and Singapore have guys on scooters that will deliver your McDonald's order to your home. Horrifying.
Wednesday, March 31, 2010
March 29 - Ayana Resort, Day 2
One day of luxury in Indonesia just isn't enough. We have one more day of R+R, so we started our day early. We polished off our fruits, including oranges, rambutan, and snakeskin fruit (by far the most stylish packaged-fruit ever). Then it was off for a walk-through of the Ayana Spa, the most ridiculous spa I've ever seen in my life. We just couldn't go through with a $100 massage after spending $5 for 60 minutes in the villages. So onward to mini-golf. The Ayana has a real grass 18-hole putting course, and it's by far the largest I've seen. The longest hole was 65 yards. Yes, 65 yards. The course had bends, turns, bunkers, and Par 5 holes. Insane, quite challenging, and good fun. I even saw my wife cracking a smile on the golf course. OK, maybe because I found the bunker. But she had fun nonetheless...
Mid-day wasn't terribly adventurous. Just relaxing. We hit the beach, as well as two more of the hotel's 6 pools. Lots of fun with the camera. Right about lunch time, the urge hit us both. WE'RE DYING for a real home-cooked cheeseburger. It's a miracle I made it this far along the trip without hunting down pizza and burgers... So we ordered from the pool deck, as well as a tasty tropical drink served in a carved out watermelon. I've had pineapple drinks. Coconut drinks. But a watermelon size serving? I likee. Needless to say, the burger/fries hit the spot.
After some problems with the hotel management (they didn't hold up to their end of the bargain with some promises), we were offered the choice to change rooms. The offer: Please stay in our villa for 50% off. Details: 5000 sq. ft. villa. Cabana in back with private infinity pool at cliff's edge and ocean view. Bath tub filled with plumeria and orchids. Marble everything. Personal butler. Private beach club. Breakfast Included. Done. Done. And done. Nicest hotel I'll ever see in my life. By a mile. If you ever come to Bali, stay at the Ayana. For a reasonable price, they made us feel like royalty.
Dinner was recommended by some friends, and a wonderful idea it was. Jimbaran Beach is the local area of town, filled with dozens of seafood stands right on the beach. We allowed the taxi to take us to the "best" one, meaning he probably got a commission and they overcharged us by 20%. Regardless, the experience was exactly as promised. Bali dancer girl giving us flowers upon arrival. Table in the sand just yards from the ocean's edge. Not a single person obstructing our view of the setting sun. Dining is a unique experience as well. We walked back to the restaurant, picking out the exact red snapper and prawns they bbq'd for us. Delish.
So we're at Jimbaran beach. Glorious sunset just finished its show. Final bites of fish and prawns just went down. A 5 piece band walks to our table, asking where we're from. "U.S.A.," we respond. They all nod approvingly. Two seconds later, they've moved into the opening bars of Sweet Home Alabama. Played the whole song. Don't think I've ever heard a better version of it in my life. Gotta love some Balinese Skynyrd...
Mid-day wasn't terribly adventurous. Just relaxing. We hit the beach, as well as two more of the hotel's 6 pools. Lots of fun with the camera. Right about lunch time, the urge hit us both. WE'RE DYING for a real home-cooked cheeseburger. It's a miracle I made it this far along the trip without hunting down pizza and burgers... So we ordered from the pool deck, as well as a tasty tropical drink served in a carved out watermelon. I've had pineapple drinks. Coconut drinks. But a watermelon size serving? I likee. Needless to say, the burger/fries hit the spot.
After some problems with the hotel management (they didn't hold up to their end of the bargain with some promises), we were offered the choice to change rooms. The offer: Please stay in our villa for 50% off. Details: 5000 sq. ft. villa. Cabana in back with private infinity pool at cliff's edge and ocean view. Bath tub filled with plumeria and orchids. Marble everything. Personal butler. Private beach club. Breakfast Included. Done. Done. And done. Nicest hotel I'll ever see in my life. By a mile. If you ever come to Bali, stay at the Ayana. For a reasonable price, they made us feel like royalty.
Dinner was recommended by some friends, and a wonderful idea it was. Jimbaran Beach is the local area of town, filled with dozens of seafood stands right on the beach. We allowed the taxi to take us to the "best" one, meaning he probably got a commission and they overcharged us by 20%. Regardless, the experience was exactly as promised. Bali dancer girl giving us flowers upon arrival. Table in the sand just yards from the ocean's edge. Not a single person obstructing our view of the setting sun. Dining is a unique experience as well. We walked back to the restaurant, picking out the exact red snapper and prawns they bbq'd for us. Delish.
So we're at Jimbaran beach. Glorious sunset just finished its show. Final bites of fish and prawns just went down. A 5 piece band walks to our table, asking where we're from. "U.S.A.," we respond. They all nod approvingly. Two seconds later, they've moved into the opening bars of Sweet Home Alabama. Played the whole song. Don't think I've ever heard a better version of it in my life. Gotta love some Balinese Skynyrd...
Tuesday, March 30, 2010
March 28 - Sanur to Ayana Resort
This was a much anticipated day. A few friends have told us what kind of value the US dollar can buy in Bali. After much research online, we found our destination: Ayana Resort and Spa on Jimbaran's southern Bali beaches. Recently renamed from the Ritz Carlton Bali, this hotel has an eye-popping website and accolades from Conde Nast as "Best Resort in Asia." After a week of mostly modest accommodations in some very local settings, it was time for a splurge.
After a 30 minute cab ride, we reached the front gates. The cab driver knew the routine, but we were surprised. Multiple security guards converged on the cab, doors opened, and the trunk popped. A bomb-sniffing golden retriever made his way around the car, earning his reward for a job well done. OK--this is definitely the first time I've been sniffed for weapons of mass destruction before entering a hotel property. The Bali Bombings in 2002 & 2005 have been successful mainly in being destructive to the local economy of the island. The locals speak of the bombings like we do 9/11. It has been devastating to some of their livelihoods. So the bomb dogs actually are a very smart move by the hotel. We proceeded onward, and it became clear very quickly that this place is the real deal. The grounds were immaculate. Flowers everywhere. Basically, we've seen nothing like it in Bali. It was like going from a 3rd World country, all of a sudden into the poshest resort you've seen on Maui. But far bigger. The place is enormous, touted at 200 acres. I think we had "perma-smiles" on our faces for about the next hour.
Exiting the cab, a man dressed in historic Balinese garb banged a giant gong three times. Loved the gong... A strikingly dressed Balinese girl offered plumeria leis and offered the obligatory passion fruit juice we receive upon check-in everywhere. Maybe it's the surroundings, but Terri and I both agree it's the best we've had yet.
At check-in, those sweet words were uttered by a hotel staff member: "Mr. Carlson, you've been upgraded to the Deluxe Ocean View Room." Well, this trip just got a helluva lot better... Smiles remain intact.
It wasn't long before we were at the pool, rubbing in sunblock, soaking in the 90 degree heat, and peering at the Indian Ocean off the largest infinity pool we've ever seen. At the risk of going on and on, I'll stop there. After 7 furious days of travel around the island, it was just nice to absorb Bali this way as well.
We also stopped in to Kuta, the local touristy beach area. Described as the "Waikiki of Bali," we both found it to be much worse. Although I certainly don't fault their topless sunbathing policy, there honestly wasn't much to this area other than shop-after-shop, and vendor-after-vendor. People solicited us for everything from massages to kites to beach chairs, nonstop. It's honestly the armpit of Bali, and we can say we've been, and not going back. It was good for two things, however:
1. A beer and snack run. We literally brought a box of beer/water/snacks back to the hotel. I'm sure the hotel loved that.
2. The International McDonald's Taste-Test: I have an ongoing debate with my buddy Rob. He states all McDonald's are 100% the same in product. I contend that not only can the product be different, but sometimes it's prepped differently. I have clear anecdotal documentation that Tokyo and Buenos Aires were different, but Bali proved to be mostly in Rob's corner. A cheeseburger and fries tasted identical. However, the bun was unlike anything I've seen at McDonald's before. That said, I should note I've had a self-imposed ban on McDee's since Dec. 2008. I've not had a single burger/fry from them in 1.5 years. While Wendy's has clearly benefitted from this policy, I still won't be going back. Regardless... Damn, that is a TASTY burger!
Dinner was an experiece worth sharing, though. Ayana is proud of their new Rock Bar, as well they should. They've managed to build a glass encased bar onto the lower part of a cliff, just a few feet above the rocks and crashing surf of the Indian Ocean. Accessing the bar can only be done via the "Inclinator," a cable-car that goes up/down the cliff's face. It's like a hybrid of an open-air elevator and a roller-coaster. Being the "Type A Travel Planner" I am, I knew from my research that you have to get to the Rock Bar BEFORE it opens to get one of a few choice tables. So despite Terri's griping that I'm insane to stand in line before a resort bar opens, we made it just in time. There was a line of 8 people before us, 15 minutes before the bar opened. We got the last "good" table, with a clear and unobstructed view of the ocean. I had the Shandy (50/50 Bintang Beer and Sprite), which I will definitely be drinking on the golf course this summer... Terri had her little fu-fu drinks. Dinner was lobster spring rolls, rock shrimp cocktail with Balinese sambal sauce, and lemongrass chicken-stuffed potato skins. Awesome. As was the sunset, which fell perfectly over the rocks as all the fishing boats made their way out to sea. Photos look to be great, and this day couldn't have gone any better.
If I've made you sick by asking you to read this, I'm sorry. But it was a great day. Hope yours is too. :)
After a 30 minute cab ride, we reached the front gates. The cab driver knew the routine, but we were surprised. Multiple security guards converged on the cab, doors opened, and the trunk popped. A bomb-sniffing golden retriever made his way around the car, earning his reward for a job well done. OK--this is definitely the first time I've been sniffed for weapons of mass destruction before entering a hotel property. The Bali Bombings in 2002 & 2005 have been successful mainly in being destructive to the local economy of the island. The locals speak of the bombings like we do 9/11. It has been devastating to some of their livelihoods. So the bomb dogs actually are a very smart move by the hotel. We proceeded onward, and it became clear very quickly that this place is the real deal. The grounds were immaculate. Flowers everywhere. Basically, we've seen nothing like it in Bali. It was like going from a 3rd World country, all of a sudden into the poshest resort you've seen on Maui. But far bigger. The place is enormous, touted at 200 acres. I think we had "perma-smiles" on our faces for about the next hour.
Exiting the cab, a man dressed in historic Balinese garb banged a giant gong three times. Loved the gong... A strikingly dressed Balinese girl offered plumeria leis and offered the obligatory passion fruit juice we receive upon check-in everywhere. Maybe it's the surroundings, but Terri and I both agree it's the best we've had yet.
At check-in, those sweet words were uttered by a hotel staff member: "Mr. Carlson, you've been upgraded to the Deluxe Ocean View Room." Well, this trip just got a helluva lot better... Smiles remain intact.
It wasn't long before we were at the pool, rubbing in sunblock, soaking in the 90 degree heat, and peering at the Indian Ocean off the largest infinity pool we've ever seen. At the risk of going on and on, I'll stop there. After 7 furious days of travel around the island, it was just nice to absorb Bali this way as well.
We also stopped in to Kuta, the local touristy beach area. Described as the "Waikiki of Bali," we both found it to be much worse. Although I certainly don't fault their topless sunbathing policy, there honestly wasn't much to this area other than shop-after-shop, and vendor-after-vendor. People solicited us for everything from massages to kites to beach chairs, nonstop. It's honestly the armpit of Bali, and we can say we've been, and not going back. It was good for two things, however:
1. A beer and snack run. We literally brought a box of beer/water/snacks back to the hotel. I'm sure the hotel loved that.
2. The International McDonald's Taste-Test: I have an ongoing debate with my buddy Rob. He states all McDonald's are 100% the same in product. I contend that not only can the product be different, but sometimes it's prepped differently. I have clear anecdotal documentation that Tokyo and Buenos Aires were different, but Bali proved to be mostly in Rob's corner. A cheeseburger and fries tasted identical. However, the bun was unlike anything I've seen at McDonald's before. That said, I should note I've had a self-imposed ban on McDee's since Dec. 2008. I've not had a single burger/fry from them in 1.5 years. While Wendy's has clearly benefitted from this policy, I still won't be going back. Regardless... Damn, that is a TASTY burger!
Dinner was an experiece worth sharing, though. Ayana is proud of their new Rock Bar, as well they should. They've managed to build a glass encased bar onto the lower part of a cliff, just a few feet above the rocks and crashing surf of the Indian Ocean. Accessing the bar can only be done via the "Inclinator," a cable-car that goes up/down the cliff's face. It's like a hybrid of an open-air elevator and a roller-coaster. Being the "Type A Travel Planner" I am, I knew from my research that you have to get to the Rock Bar BEFORE it opens to get one of a few choice tables. So despite Terri's griping that I'm insane to stand in line before a resort bar opens, we made it just in time. There was a line of 8 people before us, 15 minutes before the bar opened. We got the last "good" table, with a clear and unobstructed view of the ocean. I had the Shandy (50/50 Bintang Beer and Sprite), which I will definitely be drinking on the golf course this summer... Terri had her little fu-fu drinks. Dinner was lobster spring rolls, rock shrimp cocktail with Balinese sambal sauce, and lemongrass chicken-stuffed potato skins. Awesome. As was the sunset, which fell perfectly over the rocks as all the fishing boats made their way out to sea. Photos look to be great, and this day couldn't have gone any better.
If I've made you sick by asking you to read this, I'm sorry. But it was a great day. Hope yours is too. :)
Saturday, March 27, 2010
March 27: Kintimani to Sanur
Disclaimer: This day was looooong. Read this when you have 5 minutes or so...
Wakup call: 3:30am. Uh huh. 3:30am. Today started with a very quick snack, then off to the trailhead. The goal: summiting Mt. Batur by sunrise. Wiping the crust out of our eyes, we hit the trail in the dead of night. It was hard to watch the trail at first, as the stars were RIDICULOUS. I've never had such a great view of the Milky Way. Yet the footing was unsteady, and our flashlights and guides proved useful. Mt. Batur rises about 5500 feet above sea level, and we started at the lake, around 3000 feet. The Balinese consider volcanic Mt. Batur to be holy, as the most recent lava flow (2000) spared only a temple built on a hill on the south slope. The rest of the southern slope is entirely black lava flow, save just one two-acre sized piece of forest housing the temple.
It's actually quite expensive to do this hike ($30), at least by Bali standards. This includes a tiny flashlight and guides, as it is pitch dark. It also ensures that you won't be threatened by physical violence from the locals, as they monitor all the trailheads and basically shake any tourist down for their cash. Word is that they will get violent if tourists ignore their little scam on the holy mount. So we chose the path of least resistance, quickly making our way up with our lightened pockets. I definately have some work to do before our PAC NW summer, as it was a bit of a struggle. Two hours later, all the fuss about this mountain proved true. Sharing our perch with a few dozen monkeys, we watched the sun rose over Lake Batur, climbing along the edge of Mt. Agung. The colors put on a show, and the early wake-up call wasn't a wasted effort.
The next incident may also be something hard to forget. We all heard a loud CRACK, and then we saw about 20 local guides rushing down the mountain. It turns out, a guide was sitting on a ledge, and accidentily leaned backward too hard against the guard rail. By guard rail, I mean a 10 foot piece of bamboo held up by two crooked sticks. What happened next was shocking and horrifying. As we all peered over the cliff, we saw the poor guy laying lifeless on the rocks. He probably fell 15 feet before contact, falling backwards off the cliff. He then tumbled another 25 feet, lying in a position that could only mean bad things. A few minutes later, the other guides carried him up to the top. He remained lifeless--either unconscious or worse. We all sat horrified, thinking it was the latter. Actually, we were pretty sure he was a goner. It was hard to even look. Chaos ensued, as the locals were all shouting in Balinese, trying to help the guy. It became pretty clear that he still wasn't responding. I do NOT want to see someone die on vacation, nor did I feel too excited about doing CPR. At that point Ian, Koni (our GAP Group Leader),and myself entered the scene and offered our assistance. Immediately I could see the man was taking shallow breaths, yet remained unconscious. THANK GOD he was breathing. He had a faint pulse, which I took 44. Koni talked to the locals (GAP does provide great leaders), Ian gave the man smelling salts from Koni's first aid kit, and I got his legs elevated to bring up his blood pressure. Side note---for the amount of $ we pay these guides, it's sad how ill-prepared for disaster and little training in basic First Aid they have. When I asked them to elevate his legs, they literally raised his legs 100% vertical to the ground. A backpack under his feet ultimately did the trick. Around this time, he regained consciousness. He could feel all extremities, and shockingly complained of pain only in his scraped up right arm. No apparent broken bones, and not really any blood. Long story short, within 5 more minutes he was sitting up, talking, and thanking us for our help. He was a VERY lucky man. We went back and looked where he fell. Basically, his landing spot was the only piece of land below that was soil and not black volcanic rock. Also of interest, the locals put a Hindu prayer basket of bamboo and flowers (they're everywhere in Bali) on the exact spot he fell. Mt. Batur blessed us all this day.
Should have things gone worse, Koni tells us they would've carried him down the mountain. There's no helicopter rescue here. No CT scan awaiting at the ER. These are the northern villages of Bali. There may not even be western medicine in Kintimani. And even if there was a hospital, who's going to pay for it? We're told these guides take home roughly $300 US a month, and the government takes the rest of the cash we pay. Although the comparative economy of Bali is quite different than the US, in terms of material wealth the folks of northern Bali are very poor. Yet very happy, friendly people.
So back to the hike. We made our way down the trail, ultimately stopping at what we were told were the "hot springs." It turns out, the hot springs actually is a full-fledged resort, and we had 2 hours to lay by the pool, soak in the hot springs, sip juice drinks, and get $5 massages. We partook in all. As this is rainy season and the tourists are limited, we had the place to ourselves. Quite nice.
Back to the hotel, and another nice surprise. The Lake View Hotel lunch buffet was fan-flippin'-tastic.
Menu: Pumpkin soup, nasi goreng, mie goreng, fried mashed potatoes, fried fish, Balinese Onion Rings, various satays, black rice pudding, and fresh fruit. All topped with my new favorite exotic condiment: Balinese Sauce.
Dessert: Banana Pancakes, Fried Bananas, and Balinese Cake. FINALLY--a cake I love. It was a pink soft-breading, rolled up like a Little Debbie cake. Inside--coconut mixed with palm sugar. YUM.
We piled into the bus, off to our next stop: Besakih Temple. This is regarded as the most important temple in Bali, and it delivered a great experience. About 3 miles before arrival, our bus came to a standstill. We discovered we were behind a parade of people, hundreds strong. They were all dressed in white, marching up the road toward the temple. Some were carrying ornate yellow, white, or red umbrellas. Some were carrying offerings on bamboo altars over their shoulders (two people in front, two in back). It took us another hour to get to the temple parking lot, following the procession the whole way. Karen, Marvelynn, Terri, and myself decided to enter the fray, after our tour leader warned us to prepare for chaos. He wanted none of it, and the other 8 stayed back as well.
After paying our 10,000 rupiah ($1) to enter the temple, the continuous scamming began. I'll start by saying that rarely did we go 30 seconds (for the next hour) without someone trying to sell us a sarong (to cover our legs even though we had long pants on), or say, "You can't go here!!!" After walking another 50 yards toward the temple, some men at a desk stopped us and said we had to pay, "Uhmm, hmmmm, 3 Euros each." When we showed them the tickets we just bought, they responded, "Oh no; that was only for insurance." INSURANCE FOR WHAT?!?! This is when Terri and I just turned around and walked off. It worked. They didn't stop us. We still had 300 more yards to get to the temple. This was repeatedly met with people approaching us, saying we weren't allowed unless we hired them as guides. We continued to ignore, apparently angering many. Prior to entering the temple, four policemen then stopped us. They demanded we buy sarongs or hire guides. We argued back and forth, as HELLO--we're wearing pants! Finally we'd had enough again. This was the ultimate test. If you can walk away from village police, then you know the whole place is working as a collective unit against the tourists. Again, we gambled correctly. We were yelled at by many, but no one ever physically touched us. Even the police.
We watched the blessing ceremony, which was fascinating. They placed offerings at the base of a very steep temple. The offerings included a large pile of fruits, coconuts, incense, flowers, and the head and skin of a recently killed goat. Terri saw them sacrifice a duck and a chicken on the spot, placing them onto the pile. After the hundreds of locals prayed, a chosen few carried the remaining altars and offerings up to the top temple. The procession of colorful outfits, altars, and umbrellas was a sight to behold. Photos should be good. We did not DARE go up there either. Many locals made it very clear to us to not even step foot on those steps. I didn't care to take it any further, thankful to get a glimpse such interesting culture.
Back on the bus, we stopped at another temple, then back to Sanur. Sadly, we are at the end of our GAP trip. Back at the Retro Restaurant, we had some final Arak Attacks (my new favorite Balinese rum drink) and some delish eats. Beef rendang for me, that tasty beef marinated in coconut milk and Balinese chilis. Good Lord it's tasty. We said our good-byes to the group, hopeful our paths will cross again. I love GAP trips, as a collection of 12 strangers from 5 countries always seem to end up with some long-distance friends. We were lucky to travel with great people again.
My head hit the pillow at 10 PM tonight. Terri says I was out in less than 15 seconds. G'night.
Wakup call: 3:30am. Uh huh. 3:30am. Today started with a very quick snack, then off to the trailhead. The goal: summiting Mt. Batur by sunrise. Wiping the crust out of our eyes, we hit the trail in the dead of night. It was hard to watch the trail at first, as the stars were RIDICULOUS. I've never had such a great view of the Milky Way. Yet the footing was unsteady, and our flashlights and guides proved useful. Mt. Batur rises about 5500 feet above sea level, and we started at the lake, around 3000 feet. The Balinese consider volcanic Mt. Batur to be holy, as the most recent lava flow (2000) spared only a temple built on a hill on the south slope. The rest of the southern slope is entirely black lava flow, save just one two-acre sized piece of forest housing the temple.
It's actually quite expensive to do this hike ($30), at least by Bali standards. This includes a tiny flashlight and guides, as it is pitch dark. It also ensures that you won't be threatened by physical violence from the locals, as they monitor all the trailheads and basically shake any tourist down for their cash. Word is that they will get violent if tourists ignore their little scam on the holy mount. So we chose the path of least resistance, quickly making our way up with our lightened pockets. I definately have some work to do before our PAC NW summer, as it was a bit of a struggle. Two hours later, all the fuss about this mountain proved true. Sharing our perch with a few dozen monkeys, we watched the sun rose over Lake Batur, climbing along the edge of Mt. Agung. The colors put on a show, and the early wake-up call wasn't a wasted effort.
The next incident may also be something hard to forget. We all heard a loud CRACK, and then we saw about 20 local guides rushing down the mountain. It turns out, a guide was sitting on a ledge, and accidentily leaned backward too hard against the guard rail. By guard rail, I mean a 10 foot piece of bamboo held up by two crooked sticks. What happened next was shocking and horrifying. As we all peered over the cliff, we saw the poor guy laying lifeless on the rocks. He probably fell 15 feet before contact, falling backwards off the cliff. He then tumbled another 25 feet, lying in a position that could only mean bad things. A few minutes later, the other guides carried him up to the top. He remained lifeless--either unconscious or worse. We all sat horrified, thinking it was the latter. Actually, we were pretty sure he was a goner. It was hard to even look. Chaos ensued, as the locals were all shouting in Balinese, trying to help the guy. It became pretty clear that he still wasn't responding. I do NOT want to see someone die on vacation, nor did I feel too excited about doing CPR. At that point Ian, Koni (our GAP Group Leader),and myself entered the scene and offered our assistance. Immediately I could see the man was taking shallow breaths, yet remained unconscious. THANK GOD he was breathing. He had a faint pulse, which I took 44. Koni talked to the locals (GAP does provide great leaders), Ian gave the man smelling salts from Koni's first aid kit, and I got his legs elevated to bring up his blood pressure. Side note---for the amount of $ we pay these guides, it's sad how ill-prepared for disaster and little training in basic First Aid they have. When I asked them to elevate his legs, they literally raised his legs 100% vertical to the ground. A backpack under his feet ultimately did the trick. Around this time, he regained consciousness. He could feel all extremities, and shockingly complained of pain only in his scraped up right arm. No apparent broken bones, and not really any blood. Long story short, within 5 more minutes he was sitting up, talking, and thanking us for our help. He was a VERY lucky man. We went back and looked where he fell. Basically, his landing spot was the only piece of land below that was soil and not black volcanic rock. Also of interest, the locals put a Hindu prayer basket of bamboo and flowers (they're everywhere in Bali) on the exact spot he fell. Mt. Batur blessed us all this day.
Should have things gone worse, Koni tells us they would've carried him down the mountain. There's no helicopter rescue here. No CT scan awaiting at the ER. These are the northern villages of Bali. There may not even be western medicine in Kintimani. And even if there was a hospital, who's going to pay for it? We're told these guides take home roughly $300 US a month, and the government takes the rest of the cash we pay. Although the comparative economy of Bali is quite different than the US, in terms of material wealth the folks of northern Bali are very poor. Yet very happy, friendly people.
So back to the hike. We made our way down the trail, ultimately stopping at what we were told were the "hot springs." It turns out, the hot springs actually is a full-fledged resort, and we had 2 hours to lay by the pool, soak in the hot springs, sip juice drinks, and get $5 massages. We partook in all. As this is rainy season and the tourists are limited, we had the place to ourselves. Quite nice.
Back to the hotel, and another nice surprise. The Lake View Hotel lunch buffet was fan-flippin'-tastic.
Menu: Pumpkin soup, nasi goreng, mie goreng, fried mashed potatoes, fried fish, Balinese Onion Rings, various satays, black rice pudding, and fresh fruit. All topped with my new favorite exotic condiment: Balinese Sauce.
Dessert: Banana Pancakes, Fried Bananas, and Balinese Cake. FINALLY--a cake I love. It was a pink soft-breading, rolled up like a Little Debbie cake. Inside--coconut mixed with palm sugar. YUM.
We piled into the bus, off to our next stop: Besakih Temple. This is regarded as the most important temple in Bali, and it delivered a great experience. About 3 miles before arrival, our bus came to a standstill. We discovered we were behind a parade of people, hundreds strong. They were all dressed in white, marching up the road toward the temple. Some were carrying ornate yellow, white, or red umbrellas. Some were carrying offerings on bamboo altars over their shoulders (two people in front, two in back). It took us another hour to get to the temple parking lot, following the procession the whole way. Karen, Marvelynn, Terri, and myself decided to enter the fray, after our tour leader warned us to prepare for chaos. He wanted none of it, and the other 8 stayed back as well.
After paying our 10,000 rupiah ($1) to enter the temple, the continuous scamming began. I'll start by saying that rarely did we go 30 seconds (for the next hour) without someone trying to sell us a sarong (to cover our legs even though we had long pants on), or say, "You can't go here!!!" After walking another 50 yards toward the temple, some men at a desk stopped us and said we had to pay, "Uhmm, hmmmm, 3 Euros each." When we showed them the tickets we just bought, they responded, "Oh no; that was only for insurance." INSURANCE FOR WHAT?!?! This is when Terri and I just turned around and walked off. It worked. They didn't stop us. We still had 300 more yards to get to the temple. This was repeatedly met with people approaching us, saying we weren't allowed unless we hired them as guides. We continued to ignore, apparently angering many. Prior to entering the temple, four policemen then stopped us. They demanded we buy sarongs or hire guides. We argued back and forth, as HELLO--we're wearing pants! Finally we'd had enough again. This was the ultimate test. If you can walk away from village police, then you know the whole place is working as a collective unit against the tourists. Again, we gambled correctly. We were yelled at by many, but no one ever physically touched us. Even the police.
We watched the blessing ceremony, which was fascinating. They placed offerings at the base of a very steep temple. The offerings included a large pile of fruits, coconuts, incense, flowers, and the head and skin of a recently killed goat. Terri saw them sacrifice a duck and a chicken on the spot, placing them onto the pile. After the hundreds of locals prayed, a chosen few carried the remaining altars and offerings up to the top temple. The procession of colorful outfits, altars, and umbrellas was a sight to behold. Photos should be good. We did not DARE go up there either. Many locals made it very clear to us to not even step foot on those steps. I didn't care to take it any further, thankful to get a glimpse such interesting culture.
Back on the bus, we stopped at another temple, then back to Sanur. Sadly, we are at the end of our GAP trip. Back at the Retro Restaurant, we had some final Arak Attacks (my new favorite Balinese rum drink) and some delish eats. Beef rendang for me, that tasty beef marinated in coconut milk and Balinese chilis. Good Lord it's tasty. We said our good-byes to the group, hopeful our paths will cross again. I love GAP trips, as a collection of 12 strangers from 5 countries always seem to end up with some long-distance friends. We were lucky to travel with great people again.
My head hit the pillow at 10 PM tonight. Terri says I was out in less than 15 seconds. G'night.
Thursday, March 25, 2010
March 26: Lovina to Kintimani
Wakeup call was 5:30 am, as we embarked by boat at 6 am. Destination was the north waters off Bali, about a mile off the coast. The attraction was the hundreds of dolphins that patrol these waters, along with a breathtaking sunrise over the peaking green mountains of Bali.
I'd like to think we were out there to watch the dolphins and enjoy the scenery. But I'm writing this blog from a perspective of reality, and not everything we see here is the best and the greatest. In fact, it's sometimes shockingly Third World. So reality, huh? OK. We were on a full-fledged dolphin hunt. Should a dolphin periscope his head 2 inches above water.... Well, then he's got 3 dozen motorized outrigger boats, full-steam ahead. At first the dolphins were playful, and we got a real "Sea World Moment," as one lept about 10 feet in air, spinning more times than I could count. That was terrific, as it was close to our boat. However, the rest of the tour was mostly cat-and-mouse with the dolphins. It was fun enough, and some photos will hopefully turn out nice.
A quick breakfast followed, and then it was off to cooking school. Terri, myself, and 3 of the Brits booked a class with Putu, who offers the unique experience of learning to cook Balinese recipes in his home. Putu is a local chef, and the guy knows what he's doing. These experiences are what this way of traveling is all about. The ability to cook and share food in a local's kitchen will be one of the highlights of this trip. We started in the local market, getting a crash course in local ingredients and veggies. After a quick bus ride to his home, Putu had us shaving coconuts, pounding chilis with a mortar/pestle, and putting everything together. A noteworthy event, however, is that prior to cooking the seasoned chicken, Putu put a healthy amount of RAW chicken into his mouth, sampling for taste. Even better---our recipe book says to do so. Fantastic! So salmonella doesn't exist in Bali I guess. Who knows--maybe the chicken we ate today was dispatched only minutes before entering the kitchen. Also of note was Putu's snappy chef attire. Cut-off shorts and no shirt. Yes, this is the REAL Bali. Despite the occasional worried looks we gave each other, the food was prepped and it was time to chow.
Menu: Nasi Goreng, Bergedel Kelapa, Lemon Grass Shredded Chicken (Insanely Tasty), Wok Fried Chicken/Tomato Sauce, Jeruk (Spicy Coconut Milk with Long Bean). By long bean, I mean LONG bean. End to end, these beans were nearly 3 feet long.
It goes without saying, but this meal will be one of the more memorable of my life. The Balinese people don't have much as far as worldly possessions go. Putu's kitchen was modest at best. He operates on just a two burner propane/table top stove in a house that most of us would consider to be a shack. The conditions are what any American would consider to be far below the poverty level. Putu has three part-time jobs, trying to make ends meet for his wife and 3 kids. He also works as a taxi driver and guiding tours to Balinese Cremation Ceremonies. Nonetheless, Putu could outcook any top-name Asian restaurant in America. Hands down. No contest. It probably has something to do with the fresh local ingredients, but this was one to remember.
Happily fed, we all piled into the van for our ride to Kintimani. This area boasts the tallest mountains of Bali, Mt. Agung and Mt. Batur. Upon arrival, we checked into our lodge at Lake View Hotel. Walking into our room, the view was fantastic. Below us, Batur lake. Directly across, Mt. Batur rising to 5500 feet. Gorgeous. Also welcomed are the temperatures, as we're up in the mountains and it's a bit cooler. By cooler I mean about 85 degrees instead of 95.
Dinner was VERY local at a warung (local restaurant) down the street. Not really great, but I got some protein in for a big day tomorrow. Off to bed at.... 9pm Yes. 9 pm. Tomorrow's gonna be rough.
I'd like to think we were out there to watch the dolphins and enjoy the scenery. But I'm writing this blog from a perspective of reality, and not everything we see here is the best and the greatest. In fact, it's sometimes shockingly Third World. So reality, huh? OK. We were on a full-fledged dolphin hunt. Should a dolphin periscope his head 2 inches above water.... Well, then he's got 3 dozen motorized outrigger boats, full-steam ahead. At first the dolphins were playful, and we got a real "Sea World Moment," as one lept about 10 feet in air, spinning more times than I could count. That was terrific, as it was close to our boat. However, the rest of the tour was mostly cat-and-mouse with the dolphins. It was fun enough, and some photos will hopefully turn out nice.
A quick breakfast followed, and then it was off to cooking school. Terri, myself, and 3 of the Brits booked a class with Putu, who offers the unique experience of learning to cook Balinese recipes in his home. Putu is a local chef, and the guy knows what he's doing. These experiences are what this way of traveling is all about. The ability to cook and share food in a local's kitchen will be one of the highlights of this trip. We started in the local market, getting a crash course in local ingredients and veggies. After a quick bus ride to his home, Putu had us shaving coconuts, pounding chilis with a mortar/pestle, and putting everything together. A noteworthy event, however, is that prior to cooking the seasoned chicken, Putu put a healthy amount of RAW chicken into his mouth, sampling for taste. Even better---our recipe book says to do so. Fantastic! So salmonella doesn't exist in Bali I guess. Who knows--maybe the chicken we ate today was dispatched only minutes before entering the kitchen. Also of note was Putu's snappy chef attire. Cut-off shorts and no shirt. Yes, this is the REAL Bali. Despite the occasional worried looks we gave each other, the food was prepped and it was time to chow.
Menu: Nasi Goreng, Bergedel Kelapa, Lemon Grass Shredded Chicken (Insanely Tasty), Wok Fried Chicken/Tomato Sauce, Jeruk (Spicy Coconut Milk with Long Bean). By long bean, I mean LONG bean. End to end, these beans were nearly 3 feet long.
It goes without saying, but this meal will be one of the more memorable of my life. The Balinese people don't have much as far as worldly possessions go. Putu's kitchen was modest at best. He operates on just a two burner propane/table top stove in a house that most of us would consider to be a shack. The conditions are what any American would consider to be far below the poverty level. Putu has three part-time jobs, trying to make ends meet for his wife and 3 kids. He also works as a taxi driver and guiding tours to Balinese Cremation Ceremonies. Nonetheless, Putu could outcook any top-name Asian restaurant in America. Hands down. No contest. It probably has something to do with the fresh local ingredients, but this was one to remember.
Happily fed, we all piled into the van for our ride to Kintimani. This area boasts the tallest mountains of Bali, Mt. Agung and Mt. Batur. Upon arrival, we checked into our lodge at Lake View Hotel. Walking into our room, the view was fantastic. Below us, Batur lake. Directly across, Mt. Batur rising to 5500 feet. Gorgeous. Also welcomed are the temperatures, as we're up in the mountains and it's a bit cooler. By cooler I mean about 85 degrees instead of 95.
Dinner was VERY local at a warung (local restaurant) down the street. Not really great, but I got some protein in for a big day tomorrow. Off to bed at.... 9pm Yes. 9 pm. Tomorrow's gonna be rough.
March 25: Lovina
After perhaps the longest night of sleep I've had in years, it was up early for the day's activity: Scuba Diving Menjangan Island. Terri stayed back for a culture tour, which she chose to do with her new friend Karen. So it was Ian the Brit, the Swedish girls, and myself. We jumped in the van for a 90 minute ride to the dive boat. Interesting stop---we got out at a roadside Hindu temple, which basically was a small shrine encased in locked fencing. I'm guessing the secure temple was to keep the scores of roadside monkeys out. Unannounced, our drivers then went into the temple, praying for about 10 minutes. Ummm, do I need to worry about the rest of this drive?
So let's stop right there. Driving in Bali. THANK GOD we booked a GAP trip and didn't try to drive ourselves. I thought South Africa was crazy. Basically the roads in Bali are about 50% the size in the US. They drive on the left side of the road. Rarely are there any shoulders or guard rails. Basically, there's just enough room for two average sized cars to squeek by each other. Now, go ahead and throw in random pedestrians, road-side fruit stands, and stray dogs by the thousands. This would make a great video game. Finally, the ultimate hazard: motorbikes. Not quite a motorcycle, but a step up from your basic moped. These ubiquitous crotch rockets are flying all over the road, and if there are any traffic rules, I'd be surprised. They pass with wreckless abandon, most of the time when no sane person would venture toward oncoming traffic. I can't tell you how many times I've seen a near head-on collision. It's just one after another. OK, I'm digressing here. Back to the diving. So Wayan and Putu's prayers were answered. We arrived safe and sound.
Diving: OK, I don't know how to put this delicately. This dive experience was the most horrifying experience I've had with this recreational sport. These guys broke just about every rule in the book for safety and operational procedures. I understand this is Indonesia, but I would've bailed had I not already paid, drove 90 minutes, and a subsequent 45 minute boat ride.... So without going into an maniacal tirade, here's the gyst:
The Bad:
1. No emergency oxygen on board. The cardinal safety sin of any dive operation.
2. No First Aid Kit on board.
3. No radio in case of problems.
4. Air Tanks just piled on top of each other in the middle of the boat. No safety valve covers. Not on a single tank. Who knows how old these things are and the last time they've been inspected.
5. "Boat" is a generous term for this mode of transport. Basically a longtail wooden boat, with our captain chain-smoking in the back with the 40 hp gas engine.
6. One member of the group was not certified, and they let him dive anyway. Wow. Let me repeat this. Wow. They gave him a 5 minute review (in broken English) prior to him descending. Good luck, pal. I actually overheard part of this briefing, which some of it included the exact opposite wrong info. I set him straight before he went under.
7. I had to persist to even have a dive master join this trip with me. They initially tried to stick me with the divemaster and uncertified diver. I gave them the stinkeye, and all was fixed. That would've been the deal-breaker. No buddy=No dive.
8. Rule #1 of Diving: Plan your dive, dive your plan.
Upon descent, we argued and I had to demand what our dive plan was (depth and length). He basically refused, saying "Look, I don't want to die either. We'll go off my dive computer." So I guess I'm on my own here then, huh?
9. Divemaster hands me a dive belt with 15 pounds of weight, all held together with a broken plastic clasp. Quick lesson: Your dive belt offsets the entrapped gas in a neoprene wetsuit, keeping you safely under water. Should you lose your belt underwater, you'd skyrocket to the surface. That equals likely death, as the nearest decompression chamber would be hours away. Minimum. So I refuse to use the broken belt, asking for another. I'm informed there is no other belt. I continue to refuse, and they somehow produce another one. After the dive I find out they gave it to the uncertified diver. Niiiiiice. Wouldn't you know it, the belt fell off him underwater, and he managed to keep it around his thighs until his dive buddy fixed it. He apparently had to abort his dive because of this, as he got freaked out. Solid.
Uhhhmmm, I think you get the point. Lesson learned. If it costs $50 US for 2 dives, you're getting what you pay for. For the record, this shop was recommended by our GAP Leader. And I'll no longer believe a word he says.
The Good: Great dives. Amazing coral. Fairly good sea-life. Highlights were a lobster, parrotfish by the dozens, trigger fish, and a black-tip shark scooting below us at about 30 miles an hour. Visibility was good, but not great. Nice nasi goreng lunch sitting in a cave on the beach, looking back at the gorgeous, green mountained island of Bali.
The Ugly: I'm sad to report this, but this beautiful dive site/island was completely polluted with garbage and trash. The reef was gorgeous and world-class. But the local government obviously has little money to put into conservation and cleanup. It was sad to see how much plastic was clinging to the reef. At one point I mistook a floating plastic bag for an exotic fish. I swam back 30 yards to figure out what it was. Not kidding. Anyway, the point is that I did enjoy myself, and I escaped with my life. One more adventure, but a risk I will not take a second time.
Back from our dives, we had just enough time to prep for dinner. Our fearless leader Koni arranged for a special feast tonight. We walked along the beach, ultimately arriving into the local neighborhoods. These homes are small, made mostly of cinderblock with roofs made of tile (like you'd see on a pagoda). One of the local women collected $6 each from us last night, prepping a 10 course Balinese dinner. Our group of 13 showed up to tables filled with food. It was A W E S O M E.... Chicken lemongrass satays, minced fish satay, tuna satay, fried sweet potatoes, nasi goreng, exotic veggies, and the best dish of all---shredded chicken fried with shallots, garlic, lemongrass, and red chilis (chili sambal on top). Good Lord, this was good. Definitely our best meal in Bali so far. Topped off with a giant cold beer.
The AC still works in the room. I still don't know what day of the week it is. Sometimes the best things in life are the least expensive. Just not when you're diving. Good night.
So let's stop right there. Driving in Bali. THANK GOD we booked a GAP trip and didn't try to drive ourselves. I thought South Africa was crazy. Basically the roads in Bali are about 50% the size in the US. They drive on the left side of the road. Rarely are there any shoulders or guard rails. Basically, there's just enough room for two average sized cars to squeek by each other. Now, go ahead and throw in random pedestrians, road-side fruit stands, and stray dogs by the thousands. This would make a great video game. Finally, the ultimate hazard: motorbikes. Not quite a motorcycle, but a step up from your basic moped. These ubiquitous crotch rockets are flying all over the road, and if there are any traffic rules, I'd be surprised. They pass with wreckless abandon, most of the time when no sane person would venture toward oncoming traffic. I can't tell you how many times I've seen a near head-on collision. It's just one after another. OK, I'm digressing here. Back to the diving. So Wayan and Putu's prayers were answered. We arrived safe and sound.
Diving: OK, I don't know how to put this delicately. This dive experience was the most horrifying experience I've had with this recreational sport. These guys broke just about every rule in the book for safety and operational procedures. I understand this is Indonesia, but I would've bailed had I not already paid, drove 90 minutes, and a subsequent 45 minute boat ride.... So without going into an maniacal tirade, here's the gyst:
The Bad:
1. No emergency oxygen on board. The cardinal safety sin of any dive operation.
2. No First Aid Kit on board.
3. No radio in case of problems.
4. Air Tanks just piled on top of each other in the middle of the boat. No safety valve covers. Not on a single tank. Who knows how old these things are and the last time they've been inspected.
5. "Boat" is a generous term for this mode of transport. Basically a longtail wooden boat, with our captain chain-smoking in the back with the 40 hp gas engine.
6. One member of the group was not certified, and they let him dive anyway. Wow. Let me repeat this. Wow. They gave him a 5 minute review (in broken English) prior to him descending. Good luck, pal. I actually overheard part of this briefing, which some of it included the exact opposite wrong info. I set him straight before he went under.
7. I had to persist to even have a dive master join this trip with me. They initially tried to stick me with the divemaster and uncertified diver. I gave them the stinkeye, and all was fixed. That would've been the deal-breaker. No buddy=No dive.
8. Rule #1 of Diving: Plan your dive, dive your plan.
Upon descent, we argued and I had to demand what our dive plan was (depth and length). He basically refused, saying "Look, I don't want to die either. We'll go off my dive computer." So I guess I'm on my own here then, huh?
9. Divemaster hands me a dive belt with 15 pounds of weight, all held together with a broken plastic clasp. Quick lesson: Your dive belt offsets the entrapped gas in a neoprene wetsuit, keeping you safely under water. Should you lose your belt underwater, you'd skyrocket to the surface. That equals likely death, as the nearest decompression chamber would be hours away. Minimum. So I refuse to use the broken belt, asking for another. I'm informed there is no other belt. I continue to refuse, and they somehow produce another one. After the dive I find out they gave it to the uncertified diver. Niiiiiice. Wouldn't you know it, the belt fell off him underwater, and he managed to keep it around his thighs until his dive buddy fixed it. He apparently had to abort his dive because of this, as he got freaked out. Solid.
Uhhhmmm, I think you get the point. Lesson learned. If it costs $50 US for 2 dives, you're getting what you pay for. For the record, this shop was recommended by our GAP Leader. And I'll no longer believe a word he says.
The Good: Great dives. Amazing coral. Fairly good sea-life. Highlights were a lobster, parrotfish by the dozens, trigger fish, and a black-tip shark scooting below us at about 30 miles an hour. Visibility was good, but not great. Nice nasi goreng lunch sitting in a cave on the beach, looking back at the gorgeous, green mountained island of Bali.
The Ugly: I'm sad to report this, but this beautiful dive site/island was completely polluted with garbage and trash. The reef was gorgeous and world-class. But the local government obviously has little money to put into conservation and cleanup. It was sad to see how much plastic was clinging to the reef. At one point I mistook a floating plastic bag for an exotic fish. I swam back 30 yards to figure out what it was. Not kidding. Anyway, the point is that I did enjoy myself, and I escaped with my life. One more adventure, but a risk I will not take a second time.
Back from our dives, we had just enough time to prep for dinner. Our fearless leader Koni arranged for a special feast tonight. We walked along the beach, ultimately arriving into the local neighborhoods. These homes are small, made mostly of cinderblock with roofs made of tile (like you'd see on a pagoda). One of the local women collected $6 each from us last night, prepping a 10 course Balinese dinner. Our group of 13 showed up to tables filled with food. It was A W E S O M E.... Chicken lemongrass satays, minced fish satay, tuna satay, fried sweet potatoes, nasi goreng, exotic veggies, and the best dish of all---shredded chicken fried with shallots, garlic, lemongrass, and red chilis (chili sambal on top). Good Lord, this was good. Definitely our best meal in Bali so far. Topped off with a giant cold beer.
The AC still works in the room. I still don't know what day of the week it is. Sometimes the best things in life are the least expensive. Just not when you're diving. Good night.
Wednesday, March 24, 2010
March 24: Ubud to Lovina
Another lovely day in Bali. We had enough time to pack our bags, another quick western breakfast, and out of Ubud we go. As enjoyable as the last 2 days have been, we're not sad to see Ubud in our rear-view mirror. It was beautiful, great people, cultural experiences, fantastic food, and the occasional cockfight. But I think the word has spread. It's just gotten too big I'm afraid. After two days, I think I've been propositioned for taxi rides no less than 500 times. Relentless. Additionally, we're finding most of these shops to be selling exactly the same stuff, probably made somewhere in China. No lie---in one shop, one of the aborigonal masks actually said "Jamaica" on the forehead. Whoops, I think that one went into the wrong box!!! Not complaining, but I think perhaps if our hotel was about 3 more stars, we could've fallen in love with the place. As it was, it was enjoyable. Sadly, it's not a place I'm dying to return. Interesting how our feelings changed, as upon arrival we loved the place. Feelings seemed to be mutual across our international group.
We hopped onto the bus, heading into the mountains. We stopped at two different Hindu temples, one in a jungle-type setting, the other built on a lake. Photos will hopefully do justice. They were ornate and beautiful. The cooler temps were welcomed, as I think this is the first time since the Tapei Airport that I haven't looked like I just went through a car-wash with my clothes on.
Next stop was our stomping grounds for the next 2 days: Lovina. We're now on the very north coast of Bali, which was about a 2 hour drive from central Ubud (the airport is on the very southern coast). I guess it takes about 3 hours to drive the island, south to north (about the size of Oahu). Lovina is a much smaller beach town, with a few tourist shops, a couple dive shops, and a black sand beach just in case we haven't sweat enough... I already love the hotel, as we pulled up to an open-air lobby, swimming pool behind, and beach about 10 feet further. No peeing frog fountains, but instead a dolphin shooting a nice stream of water out its snout. Yes, the sea is about 20 yards from the pool, and we have an ocean view. Much better digs, as we also don't need a gas-mask to enter the bathroom.
The group enjoyed a nice lunch (I had the coconut braised beef), and we organized our activities for the next few days. Lovina is much more laid-back, far less people, and relax we did. A few hours by the pool, a nice king prawn dinner (for both of us), and off to bed.
I currently have ZERO idea what day of the week it is. I've officially arrived to my vacation. How sweet it is.
G'night!
We hopped onto the bus, heading into the mountains. We stopped at two different Hindu temples, one in a jungle-type setting, the other built on a lake. Photos will hopefully do justice. They were ornate and beautiful. The cooler temps were welcomed, as I think this is the first time since the Tapei Airport that I haven't looked like I just went through a car-wash with my clothes on.
Next stop was our stomping grounds for the next 2 days: Lovina. We're now on the very north coast of Bali, which was about a 2 hour drive from central Ubud (the airport is on the very southern coast). I guess it takes about 3 hours to drive the island, south to north (about the size of Oahu). Lovina is a much smaller beach town, with a few tourist shops, a couple dive shops, and a black sand beach just in case we haven't sweat enough... I already love the hotel, as we pulled up to an open-air lobby, swimming pool behind, and beach about 10 feet further. No peeing frog fountains, but instead a dolphin shooting a nice stream of water out its snout. Yes, the sea is about 20 yards from the pool, and we have an ocean view. Much better digs, as we also don't need a gas-mask to enter the bathroom.
The group enjoyed a nice lunch (I had the coconut braised beef), and we organized our activities for the next few days. Lovina is much more laid-back, far less people, and relax we did. A few hours by the pool, a nice king prawn dinner (for both of us), and off to bed.
I currently have ZERO idea what day of the week it is. I've officially arrived to my vacation. How sweet it is.
G'night!
Tuesday, March 23, 2010
March 23: Ubud - Day 2
Jet-lag reared its ugly head. I was up at 5am today. A nice western brekkie later, and onward with today's activities. We had planned to take a half-day cooking course today. Unfortunately, only a few cooking schools are running now (off season in Bali). The ones that are running were fully booked by yesterday. So plan B was hitting the Ubud Botanical Gardens, which panned out quite well. I'm not one to get too excited about flowers, but this place was stellar. It is basically jungle-land, with bamboo forests, exotic flora, and an Indiana Jones-type feel to the place. Terri's highlight were the carnivorous flowers. I'm going with the undulating landscape, great photo opps, and "cool" temps under the canopy. Probably 80-85 degrees when we arrived at 8 am.
The rest of the afternoon was spent walking around town, shopping, a nice foot massage (for $4 each). That's right. 60 minute massages can be found in Ubud for anywhere from $4-$6. This was my first venture with foot reflexology, and probably my last. My brain couldn't decide if it was feeling tickles or intense pain. Sometimes it was both at the same time. At the very least, it was a great respite from the heat. And I did sleep through half of it.
On the way to lunch, we walked by an open lot where about 40 Balinese men were huddled in a circle, all yelling. It took about 3 seconds to figure out what was going on. Yup, cock-fighting remains alive and well in Bali's culture. Terri abstained, but my curiosity overtook me. I will not post any details here, but ask me if you're interested. From a cultural perspective, the subsequent events were fascinating. From a personal perspective, it was rather barbaric and it'll be the last cockfight I attend. And no, I did not take pictures.
Lunch followed, and we finally found Three Monkeys. It was strongly recommended in Lonely Planet, and the food delivered. Terri had a noodle beef dish, and I had an avocado/spinach/pinenut/bacon salad for starters, along with shrimp ravioli in kaffir lime cream sauce. Not exactly traditional fare, but nice nonetheless.
By the way, we're millionaires in Bali. Many times over. One dollar buys you roughly 10,000 Indian Rupiahs. It took a couple days, but I actually think I have a good handle on this currency. It feels quite strange to tip someone with a note that says "10,000," but that's actually a nice tip here-- $1. Five bucks will buy you a pretty nice lunch and a drink. Cab rides are around $1.50. Everything is negotiable. They start pretty high, but we can usually knock them down to 50% of their starting price.
Dinner was a quick dish of Nasi Goreng for both Terri and myself. Then it was off to the fire-dance show. Bali and Ubud in particular are well known for these shows. Naturally, our show was not in English. So all I can tell you is that it involved a golden deer, beautiful Balinese female dancers, 100 men chanting crazy-cool tunes, and two princes fighting before a man dressed as a horse ran MANY times over burning coconut husks. NO, they did NOT hand out hallucinogenic drugs with paid admission. Nonetheless, it was one to mark off the list...
So it's time to retire. I should note two interesting facts as I write this letter:
1. The power cords of the computers in this internet cafe are all tied together with bamboo husks. They live dangerously in Ubud.
2. Backstreet Boys is currently BLARING on the radio. For the second time since I've sat down here.
BC Out.
Monday, March 22, 2010
March 22: Sanur to Ubud
I have a feeling I'll be writing a lot about food. I wasn't expecting much, but the food so far has been very good. Brekkie (included in our stay) is no different. We both got the standard Western fare: eggs, bacon, toast. But the local tastes were not to be missed either. Fruit included watermelon, papaya, and rambutan. Terri went for the chicken porridge (I'm not a fan), and I had the black rice pudding. This is black rice cooked with coconut milk and I'm guessing palm sugar. It was DELISH. Other delights included sweet rice wraped in banana leaves. Yum.
Our bus showed up, a nice AIR CONDITIONED coach that comfortable seats all 13 of us. And by comfortable, I mean, seats in width and cushion built for 12 year-old-Balinese girls. Everyone commented how no-one fits on this bus. But it does have AC, so onward we go. Next stop is the Tannah Lot Temple, a beautiful and HUGE temple built in and around the crashing Indian Ocean. We got some great photos, and off we go to Ubud.
Ubud is the cultural center of Bali, up in the mountains. It's a bit cooler here--I'd say all of about 90 degrees. Ubud is known for their artwork, laid-back lifestyle, good food, and peaceful ricefield settings. We're here for two days, and already I know I could easily have done a week here. It's littered with restaurants, resorts, and massage parlors (of respectable variety).
Lunch was at the Dirty Duck, one of the more popular spots in town. I had (what else) the duck, which the cut in half length-wise, then deep fried. The idea is to tear it apart with your hands, dipping it into chili sauce and sambal (chili paste flavored sauce). Naturally, I loved it. Absolutely, the best duck I've had. The resaurant is open seating/ basically throughout lily ponds and with open views of rice paddies. Gorgeous.
Next up was the Monkey Forest Sanctuary. Ubud has some very cool temples, and 3 of them just happen to be set in the jungle with perhaps thousands of Balinese Macaques. These little rascals are cuter than ever, and will take you to the cleaners if you don't watch yourself. As long as they suspect you don't have food or an open backpack, they'll leave you alone though. About 500 photos later, we're off to the rice fields.
We met back up with our group, hiking through the trails and roads weaving throughout the rice paddies. We hiked Campuan Ridge, going about 4 or 5 miles. We were invited to a Balinese wedding along the way, meeting bride and groom. Both wedding participants were dressed in traditional outfits, and the makeup was on thick (even on the guy). Very colorful and beautiful decorations. They actually were going to let us stay, but this could've been a loooong day. So we said our congrats and headed onward. I'll post a photo later, but as we walked out, about 10 people were giving their car a blessing, with incense, a dead chicken, and various fruits on the hood. One woman repeatedly through rice at the car as she said a blessing. To say the least, people are very spiritual here. I'm told Hindu and Muslim are the primary religions.
Dinner tonight was also at a traditional Balinese Restaurant. Fantastic again. We both had the Nasi Goreng, a fried rice dish with shrimp and a fried egg on top. It was served with two delicous chicken satays, as well as a dish of sambal (chili sauce) for fire. Needless to say, I'll be ordering this again. I'm learning the Balinese food is fairly basic in dishes. Most places all have the same items. The ingredients lean heavily toward chilis, shrimp paste, tamarind, palm sugar, ginger, tumeric, and coconut. Many kitchens cook over bamboo or coffee wood, providing a flavor unmatched back home. The dishes are similar to Thai, but far less curry, and not quite as spicy.
We're staying at the Panorama Hotel. Nice room (again with the ornate door), but lets just say the bathroom has a smell that wouldn't pass a Seattle health dept. inspection. Going on a GAP Adventure trip, the accommodations can be hit or miss. At least the AC Works.
Oh yeah, the pool has 2 six-foot tall frog statue fountains. Both are peeing directly into the center of the pool, arcing about 10 feet inward from their respective corners. Photos have been taken. I'm thinking Facebook profile photo here...
Good night, Day 2.
Our bus showed up, a nice AIR CONDITIONED coach that comfortable seats all 13 of us. And by comfortable, I mean, seats in width and cushion built for 12 year-old-Balinese girls. Everyone commented how no-one fits on this bus. But it does have AC, so onward we go. Next stop is the Tannah Lot Temple, a beautiful and HUGE temple built in and around the crashing Indian Ocean. We got some great photos, and off we go to Ubud.
Ubud is the cultural center of Bali, up in the mountains. It's a bit cooler here--I'd say all of about 90 degrees. Ubud is known for their artwork, laid-back lifestyle, good food, and peaceful ricefield settings. We're here for two days, and already I know I could easily have done a week here. It's littered with restaurants, resorts, and massage parlors (of respectable variety).
Lunch was at the Dirty Duck, one of the more popular spots in town. I had (what else) the duck, which the cut in half length-wise, then deep fried. The idea is to tear it apart with your hands, dipping it into chili sauce and sambal (chili paste flavored sauce). Naturally, I loved it. Absolutely, the best duck I've had. The resaurant is open seating/ basically throughout lily ponds and with open views of rice paddies. Gorgeous.
Next up was the Monkey Forest Sanctuary. Ubud has some very cool temples, and 3 of them just happen to be set in the jungle with perhaps thousands of Balinese Macaques. These little rascals are cuter than ever, and will take you to the cleaners if you don't watch yourself. As long as they suspect you don't have food or an open backpack, they'll leave you alone though. About 500 photos later, we're off to the rice fields.
We met back up with our group, hiking through the trails and roads weaving throughout the rice paddies. We hiked Campuan Ridge, going about 4 or 5 miles. We were invited to a Balinese wedding along the way, meeting bride and groom. Both wedding participants were dressed in traditional outfits, and the makeup was on thick (even on the guy). Very colorful and beautiful decorations. They actually were going to let us stay, but this could've been a loooong day. So we said our congrats and headed onward. I'll post a photo later, but as we walked out, about 10 people were giving their car a blessing, with incense, a dead chicken, and various fruits on the hood. One woman repeatedly through rice at the car as she said a blessing. To say the least, people are very spiritual here. I'm told Hindu and Muslim are the primary religions.
Dinner tonight was also at a traditional Balinese Restaurant. Fantastic again. We both had the Nasi Goreng, a fried rice dish with shrimp and a fried egg on top. It was served with two delicous chicken satays, as well as a dish of sambal (chili sauce) for fire. Needless to say, I'll be ordering this again. I'm learning the Balinese food is fairly basic in dishes. Most places all have the same items. The ingredients lean heavily toward chilis, shrimp paste, tamarind, palm sugar, ginger, tumeric, and coconut. Many kitchens cook over bamboo or coffee wood, providing a flavor unmatched back home. The dishes are similar to Thai, but far less curry, and not quite as spicy.
We're staying at the Panorama Hotel. Nice room (again with the ornate door), but lets just say the bathroom has a smell that wouldn't pass a Seattle health dept. inspection. Going on a GAP Adventure trip, the accommodations can be hit or miss. At least the AC Works.
Oh yeah, the pool has 2 six-foot tall frog statue fountains. Both are peeing directly into the center of the pool, arcing about 10 feet inward from their respective corners. Photos have been taken. I'm thinking Facebook profile photo here...
Good night, Day 2.
Bali Departure--March 20
March 20, 2010; 2:08 am. The Carlsons have saved our pennies, so Asia (Bali and Singapore) are the next destinations in the adventure series.
That's right. Our plane to Bali LEAVES at 2 am. Seattle-->Taiwan-->Bali. Door-to-door (Seattle to Sanur, Bali): 27.5 hours. Ouch. Find me something to lay on so I can get off my butt. Only remarkable point in the flight was dinner (or was it breakfast?) in the Tapei Airport. I had some Udon Noodle Chicken Curry. Off the charts... If you need proof, take a look at my shirt. I think I'm wearing half of it. Slurp! Anyway, we crossed the date line, so we arrived a day later (March 21) in Bali at 5:30 PM. The arrival queue at the airport was a complete disaster. Patiently, we stand in "line" to get our visas. Line is a loosely coined term here. It was a mob of people, and after only 10 minutes and after talking to two different airport employees, we figured out where to stand to get a visa. Have your visa? Great. Now stand in a MUCH longer "line." One in which apparently doesn't move for 5 minutes at a time. This is due to both slow immigration officers and people cutting. Terri uses her adept social tactics at keeping me from going off on an Iranian woman who thinks she so coy and CUTTING RIGHT IN FRONT OF US. OK, I'm over it. 60 minutes later in this sweatbox, we're finally out. Really not complaining here. I love all the disorganization and mayhem that comes with travel. But only later.
A thirty minute cab-ride later, we check into our hotel: Swastika Bungalows. Uhhh, yeah. That's not a typo. Swastika. So the story goes, the literal translation of swastika from Sanksrit is, "to be with goodness." We didn't see any Nazi symbols, so I guess we'll stay. Our room is an ornate bungalow, right in the middle of a tropical jungle. Very cool. You know what isn't cool? The 5 foot, 6 inch doorway into the bathroom. It took all of about 10 minutes for me to smash my head into the doorframe. Once again, Terri intervenes to prevent me bodily farm, hanging my luggage tag from the doorframe. It's two days later as I write this, and my head still hurts when I take a shower. Which by the way, I need to about 4 times a day. IT IS HOT in Bali. Really hot. I'd say the temp. is somewhere around 90-95 degrees, but the humidity is stifling. I cannot stop sweating. My first day in Bali, I drank about 8 liters of water.
We met up with our group from GAP Adventures. Our tour leader is Koni, from Switzerland. We are 12 members strong, hailing from Canada, Sweden, Germany, and the UK. Terri and I are the lone US citizens. My undiagnosed paranoia dictates that the rest of them are scheming against us already.... Actually, everyone is quite nice.
Tonight's dinner was near the hotel, at Retro Restaurant. I had the red snapper and an avocado juice shake. Yeah, that's right: Avocado Juice. Mixed with a few swirls of chocolate syrup, it went down quite well. Terri had the Nasi Campur, a plate of mixed Indonesian foods: Chicken Satay, steak, some veggies mixed with seafood, curry, and a hint of coconut milk. The all-star tonight was the steak. They apparently marinate in coconut milk, and it was suprisingly amazing. I'll be looking for more of that. Time for bed. Jet lag. Big time.
That's right. Our plane to Bali LEAVES at 2 am. Seattle-->Taiwan-->Bali. Door-to-door (Seattle to Sanur, Bali): 27.5 hours. Ouch. Find me something to lay on so I can get off my butt. Only remarkable point in the flight was dinner (or was it breakfast?) in the Tapei Airport. I had some Udon Noodle Chicken Curry. Off the charts... If you need proof, take a look at my shirt. I think I'm wearing half of it. Slurp! Anyway, we crossed the date line, so we arrived a day later (March 21) in Bali at 5:30 PM. The arrival queue at the airport was a complete disaster. Patiently, we stand in "line" to get our visas. Line is a loosely coined term here. It was a mob of people, and after only 10 minutes and after talking to two different airport employees, we figured out where to stand to get a visa. Have your visa? Great. Now stand in a MUCH longer "line." One in which apparently doesn't move for 5 minutes at a time. This is due to both slow immigration officers and people cutting. Terri uses her adept social tactics at keeping me from going off on an Iranian woman who thinks she so coy and CUTTING RIGHT IN FRONT OF US. OK, I'm over it. 60 minutes later in this sweatbox, we're finally out. Really not complaining here. I love all the disorganization and mayhem that comes with travel. But only later.
A thirty minute cab-ride later, we check into our hotel: Swastika Bungalows. Uhhh, yeah. That's not a typo. Swastika. So the story goes, the literal translation of swastika from Sanksrit is, "to be with goodness." We didn't see any Nazi symbols, so I guess we'll stay. Our room is an ornate bungalow, right in the middle of a tropical jungle. Very cool. You know what isn't cool? The 5 foot, 6 inch doorway into the bathroom. It took all of about 10 minutes for me to smash my head into the doorframe. Once again, Terri intervenes to prevent me bodily farm, hanging my luggage tag from the doorframe. It's two days later as I write this, and my head still hurts when I take a shower. Which by the way, I need to about 4 times a day. IT IS HOT in Bali. Really hot. I'd say the temp. is somewhere around 90-95 degrees, but the humidity is stifling. I cannot stop sweating. My first day in Bali, I drank about 8 liters of water.
We met up with our group from GAP Adventures. Our tour leader is Koni, from Switzerland. We are 12 members strong, hailing from Canada, Sweden, Germany, and the UK. Terri and I are the lone US citizens. My undiagnosed paranoia dictates that the rest of them are scheming against us already.... Actually, everyone is quite nice.
Tonight's dinner was near the hotel, at Retro Restaurant. I had the red snapper and an avocado juice shake. Yeah, that's right: Avocado Juice. Mixed with a few swirls of chocolate syrup, it went down quite well. Terri had the Nasi Campur, a plate of mixed Indonesian foods: Chicken Satay, steak, some veggies mixed with seafood, curry, and a hint of coconut milk. The all-star tonight was the steak. They apparently marinate in coconut milk, and it was suprisingly amazing. I'll be looking for more of that. Time for bed. Jet lag. Big time.
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