One last day on the equator, and guess what? Rain. Rain. Rain. So off to the movies we went. As much as I hate going to the movies in the US, I absolutely love the movie experience in other countries. For example, in Thailand, they have the pledge of allegiance and sing to the King before every showing. Love it! Today's showing was "Clash of the Titans," a movie I've seen no less than a dozen times in my teenage years. It seems every English/History teacher from 1st-12th grade found the old 1981 flick as the only way to teach Greek mythology...
So right off the bat, Singapore has some striking differences at the Cineplex.
1. Box office: The queue was ridiculous long. They have security at the front of the line to let you know when it's your turn, a 50 foot gap, and more security at the ticket counter. No disorder here. No unruliness or you're OUT!
2. Seating: Buy your tickets, PICK YOUR SEATS! That's right. Good Lord, PLEASE let this be the next thing coming to the US. We paid our $27 Singapore ($20 US) for 2 seats for the 3D film. On the LCD screen built into the counter, up pops a real-time seating chart. Red seats are sold already, and white seats are available. We picked two in the dead center of the theater, and couldn't ask for a better spot. I'd be happy to pay a premium to purchase movie tix online in the US, but only if I get my seating choice as well. A lovely benefit of this--no need to arrive 30 minutes early and get visually assaulted by commercial after commercial; your seats are waiting for you as the movie starts.
3. Previews: Some people love them; I loathe them. I feel like I'm held hostage by corporate America every time I go to the movies. Well none of that in Singapore. I think we got 30 seconds of Toy Story 3, and maybe one other. That was it. Once the lights went out, the movie was up and running within 90 seconds.
4. Rating system. Interesting...
PG: Anyone can attend
NC 16: Under 16 not admitted
M 18: Under 18 not admitted
R21: Under 21 not admitted
Also of interest---Movies rated R21 are prohibited in Singapore to be released on video. NOW I get why so many movies go after that US PG-13 rating. Many countries in Asia are quite conservative when it comes to sex/violence/language. I imagine losing these markets worldwide could translate into billions of $ in box office losses.
5. Popcorn: As it should be. I ordered a #1 Combo, which included a medium-sized Pepsi and a medium sized popcorn. By medium-sized, I'm not talking about a mop bucket and a 60 ounce drink. I finished my popcorn just as I gained satiety. $4 US for the combo. If I lived in Singapore, I might go to the movies more than twice a year.
6. Popcorn, Part 2:
BC: "I'll have a #1 combo."
Popcorn Hostess: "Would you like that sweet or salty?"
BC: "HUH?"
Popcorn Hostess: "Sweet, or salty?"
BC: "HUH?"
Repeat 5 more times.
Turns out, salty is regular popcorn (buttery tasting, but not doused with butter most similar in taste/consistency to motor oil). Sweet popcorn is regular popcorn, then draped with some type of sticky honey substance. I opted for salty, but now I'm dying to know how the sweet tastes...
As for the new "Clash," we were impressed by the action, but horribly mystified that the robotic owl was all but left out of the film. Seriously? No owl!!!! Instead, Perseus was led around by some mystical goddess woman, whom of course he fell in love with. Such rubbish. I'm also angered at how he killed Medusa, but I'm digressing here.
The rest of the afternoon was spent completing the "Singapore Chicken Rice Challenge." Hainanese Chicken Rice is a Singaporean food if there ever was one. It's chicken flavored rice, served along with a perfectly succulent srips of chicken breast. The skin is removed just prior to eating. Popular dipping sauces include ginger, chili, and sweet soy. Take a bite of moist chicken, flavored rice, and dip it in all 3 sauces. Ahhhh.... Heaven.
Contender 1:
Terri's family has been going to a spot on Orchard Road for years, known as the Chatterbox. Residing in the Mandarin Oriental Hotel, this upscale diner has been famous for the chicken rice since 1971. They've served it to celebreties, dignitaries, and anyone willing to walk up and pay $25 a plate. This is absolutely an expensive price to pay for one dish. They're either very proud of their chicken rice, or they know people will pay their price in this prime location. There actually was a 10 minute wait for a table. The menu tells the whole story, including how they have their own farm supplying the "superior quality" chickens. Having eaten here last time in Singapore, we knew it was not to be missed. When the food came, the flavors jumped as expected. The chicken was perfect, the rice flavorful, and the sauces as bold as we rememembered. Along with great service in a top-notch hotel, this is the prototype Orchard Road dining exerience. Rating: A
Contender 2:
Immediately after paying our bill, it was off to Chinatown. Destination: Maxwell Road Food Center, and its famous Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken. Exposed to the world on a recent episode of Anthony Bourdain's "No Reservations," Tian Tian was actually sold out minutes before arrival on our first attempt to eat 4 days ago. Today we were prepared, arriving at 3 PM. Tian Tian is located in the middle of a hawker center, about a 10 minute walk from the MRT. It was not easy to find, and you'd need a map and good directions to find the place. Yes, at 3 in the afternoon, I counted the line at 12 people deep. There were about 80 stands in this hawker center, and no other stand had more than 2 or 3 people in line. This is a good sign. Despite a large photo of Bourdain and a review from his show, Terri and I were the only tourists. That is an even BETTER sign. Having just payed $25 for the same exact dish at the Chatterbox, the large-size chicken rice at Tian Tian: $3.30. That is not a typo, and that is in Singapore currency. In US$, that's about $2.50. Although the portion was about 20% smaller, that's a helluva deal for a large portion of rice, chicken breast, and bowl of onion soup. So let's get on with it... Whatever Tian Tian does to their chicken, it was amazing. Clearly more flavor, more moist, and in a word: better. The chicken rice as well, as just a few grains packed the singular taste that makes this dish so good. Although the sauces weren't quite as good (and no ginger), it didn't matter. It was clear we had to re-set our minds as to the best chicken rice in Singapore. Bourdain steered us properly, and the cost was literally 8x less. Rating: A+
With just enough time for a nap and a shower, it was time for... Dinner. Our friend Ian (from Bali trip) met us in the lobby, and Uncle Robert/Aunt Valerie collected us. Destination: Long Beach Seafood Restaurant. I'd be remiss if I failed to reveal just how adventurous it was to ride as a passenger with Robert. At one point, I actually asked, "Ummm, Robert. Did you know we're in the queue for Burger King drive through-right now?" Somehow we all made it safe and sound. The Long Beach boasts the best pepper crab in all of Singapore, and we had the appetite for one last big meal. The place was enormous, hosting table after table of banquet dinners, served family-style. I'd guess there were 300+ people dining at round tables with lazy-susans. Aunt Esther apparently has some pull at the Long Beach, as we had our own private room (along with sliding doors). We all sat down at 7PM, greeted with the information that: "Sorry, we're out of crab." That's pretty much when nuclear war erupted. Aunt Esther is a force to be reckoned with. First of all, the discourse quickly went from English to Mandarin. Aunt Valerie chimed in from time-to-time, and the hostess brought in reinforcements through restaurant management. Esther then delivered a fierce verbal assault that left Ian and myself afraid to look up from our laps... This went on for quite some time, and something seemed to be negotiated. Five minutes later, we were informed our beloved Sri Lankan crabs are being sent by courier from another seafood restaurant. Wow. I've been known to deliver the stinkeye from time-to-time. However, this type of artillery is something that can only be delivered in the form of a petite, feminine assassin.
Ultimately, the Long Beach delivered as promised. Having had pepper crab 2 days ago, this crab was 50% larger and had almost a smoky/peppery flavor to the taste--something completely foreign to me when eating crab. It was fantastic. Another highlight was the drunken prawns. The manager came by with a giant glass bowl of live prawns. Then she pours in a quarter-bottle of brandy, as we watch the little buggars squirm around. Three minutes later, the prawns come back, but about 150 degrees warmer. And completely tasty. Other dishes included roast chicken (awesome), baby gai lan, bean curd, and grouper. Feast is the only word that could describe the scene.
The true highlight of dinner: Terri's 89 year-old grandmother unashamedly stating that nothing tastes good---except for her Guinness. Yes, she still drinks 2 cans of Guinness a day. And has a bigger appetite than most people my age. You go, Ama.
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