Another great vacation in the books... I'm certainly thankful for not only the opportunity to travel, but also a great country to call home. Although our time away was nothing short of adventurous and fun, staying somewhere like Bali can be a quick reminder of how good we have it. That said, Bali was beautiful, the culture was fascinating, and the people were as friendly as you could hope. In full disclosure, I wasn't expecting the level of poverty and lack of education that I saw. It was a little more Third World than I expected. I'm not sure why I expected more development--perhaps less planning than I normally do for an international trip. This takes nothing away from Indonesia or its culture. I'd recommend Bali to anyone. The land itself is beautiful and very similar to Hawaii. Palm trees, coconuts, and volcanoes. The weather---well, it's scorching hot, humid, and sweaty. The food--far better than expected. I'll be seeking out Indonesian eateries in Seattle. The people, religion, and culture are what makes Bali what it is. They're peaceful, inviting, and pleasant. Hindu religion appears to be a constant force in their lives. We met folks at the touristy resorts, along with cooking with locals in the northern villages. They all shared a common Balinese spirit of making us feel welcome. It's a bit hard to describe, but I recommend you go see for yourself!
Singapore was all about the eats. It's basically a concrete jungle, similar to your giant cities like NYC, Tokyo, or London. Although the adventure can be found here or there, it's really all about the food, the family, the people-watching, and relaxing in a nice hotel. Again, Singapore did not disappoint.
I'm currently sitting in the Tapei Airport, knocking out a 6 hour layover. So time to wrap it up. If you've been following along with the blog, I hope you enjoyed it. I'll leave you with an ongoing list Terri and I compiled along the way:
10 Unique Sightings/Experiences in Bali:
1. 25 year-old mother driving a motorbike at 30 mph--
A. Handle bar in right hand
B. Infant baby cradled in the left arm
C. Not a helmet anywhere
2. Ordered by village police to buy a sarong at Besakih Temple. Ignored them.
3. US $100 bill is worthless because it's older than a 2006 version
4. Where being a millionaire (rupiah) can be erased by a nice dinner and a few cocktails.
5. Where Arak Attack is a tasty concoction next to your plate-- not something ordered by George W.
6. Where you can go to the spa, spend $5, and get a 30-minute vaginal steam that will prevent cancer.
7. SCUBA certification? Not necessary. A broken English 5-minute briefing will do.
8. Balinese Cooking Class:
Step 1: Take your shirt off.
Step 2: Always taste seasoned raw chicken before cooking.
9. BBQ Red Snapper and Prawns at a Jimbaran Sunset Dinner. Serenaded by a 5-piece Balinese Band. Song Selection: Sweet Home Alabama.
10. Where you just might find yourself on the phone saying, "We're ready for our butler Drusadi to come drive us to dinnner."
Thanks Bali and Singapore! Till next time...
Sunday, April 04, 2010
Saturday, April 03, 2010
April 3: Singapore, Day 5
One last day on the equator, and guess what? Rain. Rain. Rain. So off to the movies we went. As much as I hate going to the movies in the US, I absolutely love the movie experience in other countries. For example, in Thailand, they have the pledge of allegiance and sing to the King before every showing. Love it! Today's showing was "Clash of the Titans," a movie I've seen no less than a dozen times in my teenage years. It seems every English/History teacher from 1st-12th grade found the old 1981 flick as the only way to teach Greek mythology...
So right off the bat, Singapore has some striking differences at the Cineplex.
1. Box office: The queue was ridiculous long. They have security at the front of the line to let you know when it's your turn, a 50 foot gap, and more security at the ticket counter. No disorder here. No unruliness or you're OUT!
2. Seating: Buy your tickets, PICK YOUR SEATS! That's right. Good Lord, PLEASE let this be the next thing coming to the US. We paid our $27 Singapore ($20 US) for 2 seats for the 3D film. On the LCD screen built into the counter, up pops a real-time seating chart. Red seats are sold already, and white seats are available. We picked two in the dead center of the theater, and couldn't ask for a better spot. I'd be happy to pay a premium to purchase movie tix online in the US, but only if I get my seating choice as well. A lovely benefit of this--no need to arrive 30 minutes early and get visually assaulted by commercial after commercial; your seats are waiting for you as the movie starts.
3. Previews: Some people love them; I loathe them. I feel like I'm held hostage by corporate America every time I go to the movies. Well none of that in Singapore. I think we got 30 seconds of Toy Story 3, and maybe one other. That was it. Once the lights went out, the movie was up and running within 90 seconds.
4. Rating system. Interesting...
PG: Anyone can attend
NC 16: Under 16 not admitted
M 18: Under 18 not admitted
R21: Under 21 not admitted
Also of interest---Movies rated R21 are prohibited in Singapore to be released on video. NOW I get why so many movies go after that US PG-13 rating. Many countries in Asia are quite conservative when it comes to sex/violence/language. I imagine losing these markets worldwide could translate into billions of $ in box office losses.
5. Popcorn: As it should be. I ordered a #1 Combo, which included a medium-sized Pepsi and a medium sized popcorn. By medium-sized, I'm not talking about a mop bucket and a 60 ounce drink. I finished my popcorn just as I gained satiety. $4 US for the combo. If I lived in Singapore, I might go to the movies more than twice a year.
6. Popcorn, Part 2:
BC: "I'll have a #1 combo."
Popcorn Hostess: "Would you like that sweet or salty?"
BC: "HUH?"
Popcorn Hostess: "Sweet, or salty?"
BC: "HUH?"
Repeat 5 more times.
Turns out, salty is regular popcorn (buttery tasting, but not doused with butter most similar in taste/consistency to motor oil). Sweet popcorn is regular popcorn, then draped with some type of sticky honey substance. I opted for salty, but now I'm dying to know how the sweet tastes...
As for the new "Clash," we were impressed by the action, but horribly mystified that the robotic owl was all but left out of the film. Seriously? No owl!!!! Instead, Perseus was led around by some mystical goddess woman, whom of course he fell in love with. Such rubbish. I'm also angered at how he killed Medusa, but I'm digressing here.
The rest of the afternoon was spent completing the "Singapore Chicken Rice Challenge." Hainanese Chicken Rice is a Singaporean food if there ever was one. It's chicken flavored rice, served along with a perfectly succulent srips of chicken breast. The skin is removed just prior to eating. Popular dipping sauces include ginger, chili, and sweet soy. Take a bite of moist chicken, flavored rice, and dip it in all 3 sauces. Ahhhh.... Heaven.
Contender 1:
Terri's family has been going to a spot on Orchard Road for years, known as the Chatterbox. Residing in the Mandarin Oriental Hotel, this upscale diner has been famous for the chicken rice since 1971. They've served it to celebreties, dignitaries, and anyone willing to walk up and pay $25 a plate. This is absolutely an expensive price to pay for one dish. They're either very proud of their chicken rice, or they know people will pay their price in this prime location. There actually was a 10 minute wait for a table. The menu tells the whole story, including how they have their own farm supplying the "superior quality" chickens. Having eaten here last time in Singapore, we knew it was not to be missed. When the food came, the flavors jumped as expected. The chicken was perfect, the rice flavorful, and the sauces as bold as we rememembered. Along with great service in a top-notch hotel, this is the prototype Orchard Road dining exerience. Rating: A
Contender 2:
Immediately after paying our bill, it was off to Chinatown. Destination: Maxwell Road Food Center, and its famous Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken. Exposed to the world on a recent episode of Anthony Bourdain's "No Reservations," Tian Tian was actually sold out minutes before arrival on our first attempt to eat 4 days ago. Today we were prepared, arriving at 3 PM. Tian Tian is located in the middle of a hawker center, about a 10 minute walk from the MRT. It was not easy to find, and you'd need a map and good directions to find the place. Yes, at 3 in the afternoon, I counted the line at 12 people deep. There were about 80 stands in this hawker center, and no other stand had more than 2 or 3 people in line. This is a good sign. Despite a large photo of Bourdain and a review from his show, Terri and I were the only tourists. That is an even BETTER sign. Having just payed $25 for the same exact dish at the Chatterbox, the large-size chicken rice at Tian Tian: $3.30. That is not a typo, and that is in Singapore currency. In US$, that's about $2.50. Although the portion was about 20% smaller, that's a helluva deal for a large portion of rice, chicken breast, and bowl of onion soup. So let's get on with it... Whatever Tian Tian does to their chicken, it was amazing. Clearly more flavor, more moist, and in a word: better. The chicken rice as well, as just a few grains packed the singular taste that makes this dish so good. Although the sauces weren't quite as good (and no ginger), it didn't matter. It was clear we had to re-set our minds as to the best chicken rice in Singapore. Bourdain steered us properly, and the cost was literally 8x less. Rating: A+
With just enough time for a nap and a shower, it was time for... Dinner. Our friend Ian (from Bali trip) met us in the lobby, and Uncle Robert/Aunt Valerie collected us. Destination: Long Beach Seafood Restaurant. I'd be remiss if I failed to reveal just how adventurous it was to ride as a passenger with Robert. At one point, I actually asked, "Ummm, Robert. Did you know we're in the queue for Burger King drive through-right now?" Somehow we all made it safe and sound. The Long Beach boasts the best pepper crab in all of Singapore, and we had the appetite for one last big meal. The place was enormous, hosting table after table of banquet dinners, served family-style. I'd guess there were 300+ people dining at round tables with lazy-susans. Aunt Esther apparently has some pull at the Long Beach, as we had our own private room (along with sliding doors). We all sat down at 7PM, greeted with the information that: "Sorry, we're out of crab." That's pretty much when nuclear war erupted. Aunt Esther is a force to be reckoned with. First of all, the discourse quickly went from English to Mandarin. Aunt Valerie chimed in from time-to-time, and the hostess brought in reinforcements through restaurant management. Esther then delivered a fierce verbal assault that left Ian and myself afraid to look up from our laps... This went on for quite some time, and something seemed to be negotiated. Five minutes later, we were informed our beloved Sri Lankan crabs are being sent by courier from another seafood restaurant. Wow. I've been known to deliver the stinkeye from time-to-time. However, this type of artillery is something that can only be delivered in the form of a petite, feminine assassin.
Ultimately, the Long Beach delivered as promised. Having had pepper crab 2 days ago, this crab was 50% larger and had almost a smoky/peppery flavor to the taste--something completely foreign to me when eating crab. It was fantastic. Another highlight was the drunken prawns. The manager came by with a giant glass bowl of live prawns. Then she pours in a quarter-bottle of brandy, as we watch the little buggars squirm around. Three minutes later, the prawns come back, but about 150 degrees warmer. And completely tasty. Other dishes included roast chicken (awesome), baby gai lan, bean curd, and grouper. Feast is the only word that could describe the scene.
The true highlight of dinner: Terri's 89 year-old grandmother unashamedly stating that nothing tastes good---except for her Guinness. Yes, she still drinks 2 cans of Guinness a day. And has a bigger appetite than most people my age. You go, Ama.
So right off the bat, Singapore has some striking differences at the Cineplex.
1. Box office: The queue was ridiculous long. They have security at the front of the line to let you know when it's your turn, a 50 foot gap, and more security at the ticket counter. No disorder here. No unruliness or you're OUT!
2. Seating: Buy your tickets, PICK YOUR SEATS! That's right. Good Lord, PLEASE let this be the next thing coming to the US. We paid our $27 Singapore ($20 US) for 2 seats for the 3D film. On the LCD screen built into the counter, up pops a real-time seating chart. Red seats are sold already, and white seats are available. We picked two in the dead center of the theater, and couldn't ask for a better spot. I'd be happy to pay a premium to purchase movie tix online in the US, but only if I get my seating choice as well. A lovely benefit of this--no need to arrive 30 minutes early and get visually assaulted by commercial after commercial; your seats are waiting for you as the movie starts.
3. Previews: Some people love them; I loathe them. I feel like I'm held hostage by corporate America every time I go to the movies. Well none of that in Singapore. I think we got 30 seconds of Toy Story 3, and maybe one other. That was it. Once the lights went out, the movie was up and running within 90 seconds.
4. Rating system. Interesting...
PG: Anyone can attend
NC 16: Under 16 not admitted
M 18: Under 18 not admitted
R21: Under 21 not admitted
Also of interest---Movies rated R21 are prohibited in Singapore to be released on video. NOW I get why so many movies go after that US PG-13 rating. Many countries in Asia are quite conservative when it comes to sex/violence/language. I imagine losing these markets worldwide could translate into billions of $ in box office losses.
5. Popcorn: As it should be. I ordered a #1 Combo, which included a medium-sized Pepsi and a medium sized popcorn. By medium-sized, I'm not talking about a mop bucket and a 60 ounce drink. I finished my popcorn just as I gained satiety. $4 US for the combo. If I lived in Singapore, I might go to the movies more than twice a year.
6. Popcorn, Part 2:
BC: "I'll have a #1 combo."
Popcorn Hostess: "Would you like that sweet or salty?"
BC: "HUH?"
Popcorn Hostess: "Sweet, or salty?"
BC: "HUH?"
Repeat 5 more times.
Turns out, salty is regular popcorn (buttery tasting, but not doused with butter most similar in taste/consistency to motor oil). Sweet popcorn is regular popcorn, then draped with some type of sticky honey substance. I opted for salty, but now I'm dying to know how the sweet tastes...
As for the new "Clash," we were impressed by the action, but horribly mystified that the robotic owl was all but left out of the film. Seriously? No owl!!!! Instead, Perseus was led around by some mystical goddess woman, whom of course he fell in love with. Such rubbish. I'm also angered at how he killed Medusa, but I'm digressing here.
The rest of the afternoon was spent completing the "Singapore Chicken Rice Challenge." Hainanese Chicken Rice is a Singaporean food if there ever was one. It's chicken flavored rice, served along with a perfectly succulent srips of chicken breast. The skin is removed just prior to eating. Popular dipping sauces include ginger, chili, and sweet soy. Take a bite of moist chicken, flavored rice, and dip it in all 3 sauces. Ahhhh.... Heaven.
Contender 1:
Terri's family has been going to a spot on Orchard Road for years, known as the Chatterbox. Residing in the Mandarin Oriental Hotel, this upscale diner has been famous for the chicken rice since 1971. They've served it to celebreties, dignitaries, and anyone willing to walk up and pay $25 a plate. This is absolutely an expensive price to pay for one dish. They're either very proud of their chicken rice, or they know people will pay their price in this prime location. There actually was a 10 minute wait for a table. The menu tells the whole story, including how they have their own farm supplying the "superior quality" chickens. Having eaten here last time in Singapore, we knew it was not to be missed. When the food came, the flavors jumped as expected. The chicken was perfect, the rice flavorful, and the sauces as bold as we rememembered. Along with great service in a top-notch hotel, this is the prototype Orchard Road dining exerience. Rating: A
Contender 2:
Immediately after paying our bill, it was off to Chinatown. Destination: Maxwell Road Food Center, and its famous Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken. Exposed to the world on a recent episode of Anthony Bourdain's "No Reservations," Tian Tian was actually sold out minutes before arrival on our first attempt to eat 4 days ago. Today we were prepared, arriving at 3 PM. Tian Tian is located in the middle of a hawker center, about a 10 minute walk from the MRT. It was not easy to find, and you'd need a map and good directions to find the place. Yes, at 3 in the afternoon, I counted the line at 12 people deep. There were about 80 stands in this hawker center, and no other stand had more than 2 or 3 people in line. This is a good sign. Despite a large photo of Bourdain and a review from his show, Terri and I were the only tourists. That is an even BETTER sign. Having just payed $25 for the same exact dish at the Chatterbox, the large-size chicken rice at Tian Tian: $3.30. That is not a typo, and that is in Singapore currency. In US$, that's about $2.50. Although the portion was about 20% smaller, that's a helluva deal for a large portion of rice, chicken breast, and bowl of onion soup. So let's get on with it... Whatever Tian Tian does to their chicken, it was amazing. Clearly more flavor, more moist, and in a word: better. The chicken rice as well, as just a few grains packed the singular taste that makes this dish so good. Although the sauces weren't quite as good (and no ginger), it didn't matter. It was clear we had to re-set our minds as to the best chicken rice in Singapore. Bourdain steered us properly, and the cost was literally 8x less. Rating: A+
With just enough time for a nap and a shower, it was time for... Dinner. Our friend Ian (from Bali trip) met us in the lobby, and Uncle Robert/Aunt Valerie collected us. Destination: Long Beach Seafood Restaurant. I'd be remiss if I failed to reveal just how adventurous it was to ride as a passenger with Robert. At one point, I actually asked, "Ummm, Robert. Did you know we're in the queue for Burger King drive through-right now?" Somehow we all made it safe and sound. The Long Beach boasts the best pepper crab in all of Singapore, and we had the appetite for one last big meal. The place was enormous, hosting table after table of banquet dinners, served family-style. I'd guess there were 300+ people dining at round tables with lazy-susans. Aunt Esther apparently has some pull at the Long Beach, as we had our own private room (along with sliding doors). We all sat down at 7PM, greeted with the information that: "Sorry, we're out of crab." That's pretty much when nuclear war erupted. Aunt Esther is a force to be reckoned with. First of all, the discourse quickly went from English to Mandarin. Aunt Valerie chimed in from time-to-time, and the hostess brought in reinforcements through restaurant management. Esther then delivered a fierce verbal assault that left Ian and myself afraid to look up from our laps... This went on for quite some time, and something seemed to be negotiated. Five minutes later, we were informed our beloved Sri Lankan crabs are being sent by courier from another seafood restaurant. Wow. I've been known to deliver the stinkeye from time-to-time. However, this type of artillery is something that can only be delivered in the form of a petite, feminine assassin.
Ultimately, the Long Beach delivered as promised. Having had pepper crab 2 days ago, this crab was 50% larger and had almost a smoky/peppery flavor to the taste--something completely foreign to me when eating crab. It was fantastic. Another highlight was the drunken prawns. The manager came by with a giant glass bowl of live prawns. Then she pours in a quarter-bottle of brandy, as we watch the little buggars squirm around. Three minutes later, the prawns come back, but about 150 degrees warmer. And completely tasty. Other dishes included roast chicken (awesome), baby gai lan, bean curd, and grouper. Feast is the only word that could describe the scene.
The true highlight of dinner: Terri's 89 year-old grandmother unashamedly stating that nothing tastes good---except for her Guinness. Yes, she still drinks 2 cans of Guinness a day. And has a bigger appetite than most people my age. You go, Ama.
Friday, April 02, 2010
April 2: Singapore, Day 4
After yesterday's foodie adventures, we needed a change of pace. Although breakfast again was Breadtalk, the doughnut shop was open today. I had a crazy strawberry-frosted doughnut with crunchy chocolate balls on top--flatly disappointing. Terri's belgian chocolate/cappucino cream doughnut also missed the mark.
Our next stop was Sentosa Island, as it was time to play "the tourist." Sentosa is a mix of Universal Studios (they just opened one but it's completely sold out), Las Vegas casino (stock full of Chihuly glass), amusement park, and beaches. The "Images of Singapore" exhibit was like something you'd see at Epcot, both entertaining and educational. Someone turned the heat up today, as it was oppressively hot. Basically we just walked around, seeking the next area of air-conditioned refuge.
After yesterday, we'd both hit our threshold of Asian eats. We agreed we need something that tastes like American food. Subway did the trick, and it tasted reassuringly similar to your neighborhood Subway shop. My only complaint was my "sandwich artist's" freestyle manner of adding veggies and various condiments. I held her in check the best I could, especially with the mayo. That nastiness will ruin any art project.
So if we're going to be American today, how about a drink and a snack at an American bar? Since the only one in Seattle closed down last year, Chili's was like a beacon of light in the 95 degree heat. Last time through, we had the original Singapore Sling at Raffle's hotel. Sorry Raffles, but Chili's version was the best ever. Perhaps because the price was $10 instead of $28. So sad that it's easier to get good queso dip in Singapore than it is in Seattle. Come on Chili's--give our southern food appetites some loving up in the PAC NW....
Next stop was the Sentosa Resort Casino. The big new casino on the island, we were curious to see if we could take some money from the island. Singapore has got their gambling laws in check. To keep out the riff-raff and the poor who shouldn't be gambling in the first place, they've imposed a $100 entrance fee to any local who wishes to gamble. Yikes. That will keep the nickel slot players away! Additionally, on a 10 foot high sign, they imposed three additional rules:
1. NO FLIP FLOPS. Ummm, yeah. Terri's wearing flip flops.
2. NO SHORTS. Hmmm, we've got sort a problem here. I'm wearing shorts.
3. MUST HAVE PASSPORTS. Uh huh. 3 for 3. Those are back at the Fairmont.
Crap. I should've just had another Singapore Sling and gotten too drunk to gamble.
After a nice AC break at the hotel, it was back to Orchard Road for dinner. Orchard Road is the central hub of urban life in Singapore. If you're interested in block after block of 5 story malls with boutique clothing for 90 pound females, then this is your place. In my case... Not interested.
Dinner was another spot recommended by Anthony Bourdain's Singapore episode: Straits Kitchen at the Grand Hyatt. Well done, Anthony. We often watch these shows on TV, pondering.... Hmmmm, I wonder if this place really is THAT good, or perhaps just cause the guy got a free meal and he has 30 minutes to fill? Well, Bourdain hit the nail on the head. First of all, there were very few tourists there. Almost everyone looked local. That's a good sign, especially at a downtown hotel. The buffet at the Hyatt had everything you can ask for in Singaporean cuisine. Everything. Chli Crab? Check. Terri's beloved Prawn Noodles? Check. A full-on station of Indian food? Check. All told, I counted 52 individual dishes, spread throughout 7 stations. That doesn't count the dessert station, nor does it count the ice-cream. Yes, they had durian ice cream. Yes, I tried it. And yes, it still smells like garbage in ice-cream form.
After dinner, we ran into Ian (new friend we traveled with in Bali) in the underground. Crazy. City of millions of people, and we see someone we met in Bali in the subway. Ian (from UK) showed off his outrageous new sunburn from the Gili Islands, and we made dinner plans for tomorrow. Should be a fun last day in Singapore.
G'night, everybody. I've brought Terri to the internet cafe tonight to keep the tranny away on the walk home. The walk back should hopefully be uneventful.
Our next stop was Sentosa Island, as it was time to play "the tourist." Sentosa is a mix of Universal Studios (they just opened one but it's completely sold out), Las Vegas casino (stock full of Chihuly glass), amusement park, and beaches. The "Images of Singapore" exhibit was like something you'd see at Epcot, both entertaining and educational. Someone turned the heat up today, as it was oppressively hot. Basically we just walked around, seeking the next area of air-conditioned refuge.
After yesterday, we'd both hit our threshold of Asian eats. We agreed we need something that tastes like American food. Subway did the trick, and it tasted reassuringly similar to your neighborhood Subway shop. My only complaint was my "sandwich artist's" freestyle manner of adding veggies and various condiments. I held her in check the best I could, especially with the mayo. That nastiness will ruin any art project.
So if we're going to be American today, how about a drink and a snack at an American bar? Since the only one in Seattle closed down last year, Chili's was like a beacon of light in the 95 degree heat. Last time through, we had the original Singapore Sling at Raffle's hotel. Sorry Raffles, but Chili's version was the best ever. Perhaps because the price was $10 instead of $28. So sad that it's easier to get good queso dip in Singapore than it is in Seattle. Come on Chili's--give our southern food appetites some loving up in the PAC NW....
Next stop was the Sentosa Resort Casino. The big new casino on the island, we were curious to see if we could take some money from the island. Singapore has got their gambling laws in check. To keep out the riff-raff and the poor who shouldn't be gambling in the first place, they've imposed a $100 entrance fee to any local who wishes to gamble. Yikes. That will keep the nickel slot players away! Additionally, on a 10 foot high sign, they imposed three additional rules:
1. NO FLIP FLOPS. Ummm, yeah. Terri's wearing flip flops.
2. NO SHORTS. Hmmm, we've got sort a problem here. I'm wearing shorts.
3. MUST HAVE PASSPORTS. Uh huh. 3 for 3. Those are back at the Fairmont.
Crap. I should've just had another Singapore Sling and gotten too drunk to gamble.
After a nice AC break at the hotel, it was back to Orchard Road for dinner. Orchard Road is the central hub of urban life in Singapore. If you're interested in block after block of 5 story malls with boutique clothing for 90 pound females, then this is your place. In my case... Not interested.
Dinner was another spot recommended by Anthony Bourdain's Singapore episode: Straits Kitchen at the Grand Hyatt. Well done, Anthony. We often watch these shows on TV, pondering.... Hmmmm, I wonder if this place really is THAT good, or perhaps just cause the guy got a free meal and he has 30 minutes to fill? Well, Bourdain hit the nail on the head. First of all, there were very few tourists there. Almost everyone looked local. That's a good sign, especially at a downtown hotel. The buffet at the Hyatt had everything you can ask for in Singaporean cuisine. Everything. Chli Crab? Check. Terri's beloved Prawn Noodles? Check. A full-on station of Indian food? Check. All told, I counted 52 individual dishes, spread throughout 7 stations. That doesn't count the dessert station, nor does it count the ice-cream. Yes, they had durian ice cream. Yes, I tried it. And yes, it still smells like garbage in ice-cream form.
After dinner, we ran into Ian (new friend we traveled with in Bali) in the underground. Crazy. City of millions of people, and we see someone we met in Bali in the subway. Ian (from UK) showed off his outrageous new sunburn from the Gili Islands, and we made dinner plans for tomorrow. Should be a fun last day in Singapore.
G'night, everybody. I've brought Terri to the internet cafe tonight to keep the tranny away on the walk home. The walk back should hopefully be uneventful.
Thursday, April 01, 2010
April 1: Singapore, Day 3
Today could be most likened to being on an episode of Bizarre Foods: Singapore. This leg of the trip certainly has a culinary theme, as the two main highlights of this city/country are eating and shopping. Seeing as my bags are at capacity (and nothing would really fit me here anyway), sharing food with family has been the primary objective.
We ventured downstairs into the underground for brekkie, finding Terri's beloved Breadtalk. She had her pork floss bun (it's as disgusting as it sounds), and I had a chicken curry bun and a chocolate croissant. We later came across a Singaporean doughnut shop, but shockingly the place DOESN'T OPEN UNTIL 10 AM. Seriously? A doughnut shop that isn't open for breakfast? Sorry Singapore, but that's simply unacceptable.
We again met Ama and Aunt Esther for lunch, this time at Jalan Sultan Prawn Mee. The draw: Terri's beloved shrimp noodles. This dish has a shrimp-based broth with yellow noodles, as well as a few veggies (bean sprouts and chilis) thrown in. Whole prawns were perfectly cooked, bountiful, and ready to be devoured. It's been a wonderful advantage having Terri's family show us around. Basically Terri is picking the food, and they take us to the best spot in the city for that particular item. While I can't say prawn noodles were my favorite, Terri was in heaven. Seeing as she gets them maybe once every 2-4 years, I'm glad we went.
Some afternoon shopping at Tao Payoh Center produced a bag full of foods and jellies that I can neither pronounce nor wish to eat. They will most definitely land onto our pantry shelf in our kitchen I've labeled, "Land of Confusion." That's Terri's domain, and I stay away. I don't even let things I eat reside on that shelf. I want no part of it.
On the way home, we stopped at Auntie Annie's house for a visit. It was nice to see her, as she hosted our wedding banquet at her house for our last visit to Singapore. As it was, she had a pot of Bird's Nest Soup waiting for us. If you haven't heard of this, it's actually a bit of a delicacy in this part of the world (and quite expensive--about $50 to $100 a bowl in restaurants). It's made by harvesting the nests of the swallow bird. The swallow (or swift) creates its nest by using twigs and its saliva to glue them together. Ancient Chinese tradition reveals that to make the soup, you'd place the nests in a pot of boiling water or chicken broth. This will release the saliva/glue from the sticks. Once the nest is removed, the resulting water/saliva is mixed with a few more ingredients. And voila, you have Bird's Nest Soup! Once you get your mind over the fact that you're eating bird spit, it wasn't all that bad. The saliva was gelatinous and gummy, but it had a sweet taste to it with the warm broth. I wouldn't order it in a restaurant, but I'm proud to say I got my entire bowl down.
After some R+R and the hotel, it was back at it for the next round of interesting eats. Tonight was fish-head curry, as well as fried oat prawns and pepper crab. Let's take them one-by-one.
1. Fish Head Curry: Imagine the biggest fish head you've ever seen, a giant squid-looking eye, and piranha-like teeth jutting in all directions. Well, that's pretty much it. The fish head was big enough to cover your average size dinner plate, but a delicious spicy curry accompanied. The cheek meat was pretty tasty, and the curry went great with rice. I was offered the eyeball, but politely passed. Terri's Ama wasted no time, and you didn't need to ask her twice. The 90 year-old took it down like she was popping in a french fry. Damn, it was impressive.
2. Fried Oat Prawns: Pretty much self explanatory. Giant prawns breaded with oats, then deep-fried. Although the breading comes off with the shell, the oat taste remains with the meat. Loved it, especially with the fish-head curry sauce.
3. Pepper Crab: Pepper and Chili crab are usually served as a specialty at many seafood restaurants. Pepper crab is based more on the spice, not the chili pepper. I've had chili crab before, but I was shocked to learn the pepper crab was far tastier. It also reinforced I have no idea what I'm doing with this type of Sri Lankan crab, as I managed to get it all over myself. I'll do my best to keep Terri from posting those photos.
After dinner we all piled into the car in search of dessert. Auntie Esther knew exactly where to go. I've seen this food on many shows, yet to encounter it eye-to-eye. It's the spinous durian fruit, a variety they've appropriately named "Combat Durian." This thing is about the size of a small watermelon. It has porcupine-like spines around the entire sphere. We all pondered if in-fact anyone has ever been killed by one of these landing on their heads. They're heavy and the spines are very sharp. It's a fruit that appears to have come from the depths of hell. And not only due to appearance. The durian stinks. I mean it REALLY stinks. For example, you'll get a $500 fine if you're caught with one in the subway. Hotels do not allow you to bring them inside. We bought two of them, placed them in the trunk, and we could smell them THROUGH THE BACK SEAT as we drove to Ama's flat. The smell, you ask? My best description would be this: Raw chicken meat, thrown in a garbage can, forgotten about for two days, and then open it and take a big whiff. That's pretty much it. As disgusting as the smell is, the texture matches. It's slimy, pasty, and nearly gelatinous. The stench remains on your hands after touching the white, fleshy seeds (about the size of a crescent-shaped lime). Terri grabbed one, went straight to her mouth, and put it down like a champ. Now, my turn. Yeah. It didn't go so well. I had a bitter seed, and it tasted like a combination of sauteed onions and that bitter, rotten chicken described earlier. I don't think in my entire life I've eaten anything so foul. Regardless, I can checkmark that food. Durian. Check. And done. Shower on the way and double mouthwash rinse after toothbrushing. Good night, people. I've got work to do.
Addendum: While walking to the hotel from writing this blog entry, I was approached by a person of questionable gender. Actually, I'm quite certain of gender, but the feminine clothing didn't match the man-hands and adam's apple on his/her neck. I won't go into details, but certain services were offered, especially some type of nefarious massage that promised exciting conclusions. Yes, "bizarre" is the word of the day.
We ventured downstairs into the underground for brekkie, finding Terri's beloved Breadtalk. She had her pork floss bun (it's as disgusting as it sounds), and I had a chicken curry bun and a chocolate croissant. We later came across a Singaporean doughnut shop, but shockingly the place DOESN'T OPEN UNTIL 10 AM. Seriously? A doughnut shop that isn't open for breakfast? Sorry Singapore, but that's simply unacceptable.
We again met Ama and Aunt Esther for lunch, this time at Jalan Sultan Prawn Mee. The draw: Terri's beloved shrimp noodles. This dish has a shrimp-based broth with yellow noodles, as well as a few veggies (bean sprouts and chilis) thrown in. Whole prawns were perfectly cooked, bountiful, and ready to be devoured. It's been a wonderful advantage having Terri's family show us around. Basically Terri is picking the food, and they take us to the best spot in the city for that particular item. While I can't say prawn noodles were my favorite, Terri was in heaven. Seeing as she gets them maybe once every 2-4 years, I'm glad we went.
Some afternoon shopping at Tao Payoh Center produced a bag full of foods and jellies that I can neither pronounce nor wish to eat. They will most definitely land onto our pantry shelf in our kitchen I've labeled, "Land of Confusion." That's Terri's domain, and I stay away. I don't even let things I eat reside on that shelf. I want no part of it.
On the way home, we stopped at Auntie Annie's house for a visit. It was nice to see her, as she hosted our wedding banquet at her house for our last visit to Singapore. As it was, she had a pot of Bird's Nest Soup waiting for us. If you haven't heard of this, it's actually a bit of a delicacy in this part of the world (and quite expensive--about $50 to $100 a bowl in restaurants). It's made by harvesting the nests of the swallow bird. The swallow (or swift) creates its nest by using twigs and its saliva to glue them together. Ancient Chinese tradition reveals that to make the soup, you'd place the nests in a pot of boiling water or chicken broth. This will release the saliva/glue from the sticks. Once the nest is removed, the resulting water/saliva is mixed with a few more ingredients. And voila, you have Bird's Nest Soup! Once you get your mind over the fact that you're eating bird spit, it wasn't all that bad. The saliva was gelatinous and gummy, but it had a sweet taste to it with the warm broth. I wouldn't order it in a restaurant, but I'm proud to say I got my entire bowl down.
After some R+R and the hotel, it was back at it for the next round of interesting eats. Tonight was fish-head curry, as well as fried oat prawns and pepper crab. Let's take them one-by-one.
1. Fish Head Curry: Imagine the biggest fish head you've ever seen, a giant squid-looking eye, and piranha-like teeth jutting in all directions. Well, that's pretty much it. The fish head was big enough to cover your average size dinner plate, but a delicious spicy curry accompanied. The cheek meat was pretty tasty, and the curry went great with rice. I was offered the eyeball, but politely passed. Terri's Ama wasted no time, and you didn't need to ask her twice. The 90 year-old took it down like she was popping in a french fry. Damn, it was impressive.
2. Fried Oat Prawns: Pretty much self explanatory. Giant prawns breaded with oats, then deep-fried. Although the breading comes off with the shell, the oat taste remains with the meat. Loved it, especially with the fish-head curry sauce.
3. Pepper Crab: Pepper and Chili crab are usually served as a specialty at many seafood restaurants. Pepper crab is based more on the spice, not the chili pepper. I've had chili crab before, but I was shocked to learn the pepper crab was far tastier. It also reinforced I have no idea what I'm doing with this type of Sri Lankan crab, as I managed to get it all over myself. I'll do my best to keep Terri from posting those photos.
After dinner we all piled into the car in search of dessert. Auntie Esther knew exactly where to go. I've seen this food on many shows, yet to encounter it eye-to-eye. It's the spinous durian fruit, a variety they've appropriately named "Combat Durian." This thing is about the size of a small watermelon. It has porcupine-like spines around the entire sphere. We all pondered if in-fact anyone has ever been killed by one of these landing on their heads. They're heavy and the spines are very sharp. It's a fruit that appears to have come from the depths of hell. And not only due to appearance. The durian stinks. I mean it REALLY stinks. For example, you'll get a $500 fine if you're caught with one in the subway. Hotels do not allow you to bring them inside. We bought two of them, placed them in the trunk, and we could smell them THROUGH THE BACK SEAT as we drove to Ama's flat. The smell, you ask? My best description would be this: Raw chicken meat, thrown in a garbage can, forgotten about for two days, and then open it and take a big whiff. That's pretty much it. As disgusting as the smell is, the texture matches. It's slimy, pasty, and nearly gelatinous. The stench remains on your hands after touching the white, fleshy seeds (about the size of a crescent-shaped lime). Terri grabbed one, went straight to her mouth, and put it down like a champ. Now, my turn. Yeah. It didn't go so well. I had a bitter seed, and it tasted like a combination of sauteed onions and that bitter, rotten chicken described earlier. I don't think in my entire life I've eaten anything so foul. Regardless, I can checkmark that food. Durian. Check. And done. Shower on the way and double mouthwash rinse after toothbrushing. Good night, people. I've got work to do.
Addendum: While walking to the hotel from writing this blog entry, I was approached by a person of questionable gender. Actually, I'm quite certain of gender, but the feminine clothing didn't match the man-hands and adam's apple on his/her neck. I won't go into details, but certain services were offered, especially some type of nefarious massage that promised exciting conclusions. Yes, "bizarre" is the word of the day.
March 31: Singapore Day 2
Uh-oh. Man-cold in full effect. What a time to get congested and lose my appetite/sense-of-smell. We had some energy bars for brekkie, and tried to sweat it out in the gym. What a foreign idea. A workout? It actually felt good, as did reading the paper at poolside.
I love the international papers--especially how they portray the US. Things aren't quite glossed over as much. Reporting appears to be without bias or the political blinders of the paper's ownership. Maybe it's just that we live in uber-liberal Seattle. But Obama and his recent work doesn't go without criticism in the International Herald Tribune. Soooo.... I guess drilling in Alaska and in the Gulf actually IS a good idea, huh Obama?!?!?!?!? I'm no Palin fan, but I guess ideals change once you become President... I think it's called reality. Drill, Barack, Drill!
We met Terri's Ama (Grandma) and Aunt Esther for lunch, which was appropriately at the "Rendezvous Hotel." Their restaurant features Indonesian curries, supporting chicken, prawns, fish, and beef rendang (my fave). Lord, I wish I could take the restaurant back to Seattle with me. The curries were fantastic. The meats delicate enough to cut with a fork. And the Tiger beer flowing as it should... I'm sure it's doing wonders for my cold too.
After a much needed nap (AC on high), dinner was at another local favorite: The Satay Club. This is actually just a hawker center, with a large open area of plastic tables and stools. Stalls are numbered 1-20, and you order the satays and dishes from whichever you wish. We had all the best eats, including satays with mutton, chicken, the the best peanut sauce on the planet. Sides included some Chinese noodles, gai lan, and a dish Aunt Esther apparently ordered especially for me: Mutton soup. At first I was scared. Then, I saw Esther's great wisdom. In a word, it was phenomenal. I'm salivating currently as I write about it. I wish we could go back, but alas, there are many more foods to try.
In case you didn't notice, Day 2 of Singapore basically goes like this.
Breakfast. Workout. Pool. Rest. Lunch. Nap. Dinner. Sleep.
This vacation continues to keep getting better and better... G'night!
I love the international papers--especially how they portray the US. Things aren't quite glossed over as much. Reporting appears to be without bias or the political blinders of the paper's ownership. Maybe it's just that we live in uber-liberal Seattle. But Obama and his recent work doesn't go without criticism in the International Herald Tribune. Soooo.... I guess drilling in Alaska and in the Gulf actually IS a good idea, huh Obama?!?!?!?!? I'm no Palin fan, but I guess ideals change once you become President... I think it's called reality. Drill, Barack, Drill!
We met Terri's Ama (Grandma) and Aunt Esther for lunch, which was appropriately at the "Rendezvous Hotel." Their restaurant features Indonesian curries, supporting chicken, prawns, fish, and beef rendang (my fave). Lord, I wish I could take the restaurant back to Seattle with me. The curries were fantastic. The meats delicate enough to cut with a fork. And the Tiger beer flowing as it should... I'm sure it's doing wonders for my cold too.
After a much needed nap (AC on high), dinner was at another local favorite: The Satay Club. This is actually just a hawker center, with a large open area of plastic tables and stools. Stalls are numbered 1-20, and you order the satays and dishes from whichever you wish. We had all the best eats, including satays with mutton, chicken, the the best peanut sauce on the planet. Sides included some Chinese noodles, gai lan, and a dish Aunt Esther apparently ordered especially for me: Mutton soup. At first I was scared. Then, I saw Esther's great wisdom. In a word, it was phenomenal. I'm salivating currently as I write about it. I wish we could go back, but alas, there are many more foods to try.
In case you didn't notice, Day 2 of Singapore basically goes like this.
Breakfast. Workout. Pool. Rest. Lunch. Nap. Dinner. Sleep.
This vacation continues to keep getting better and better... G'night!
March 30: Bali to Singapore
Breakfast was worth mentioning today. Included with the villa was breakfast at Dava, a restaurant that would be considered first rate anywhere. Juices were fresh-squeezed. Tasty breads and muffins made our way to the table by the handful. I had an amazing salad including citrus fruit, dragonfruit, avocados, and sprinkled with some fresh mint leaves. That dish should win some kind of award. Next up, steel cut oats with palm sugar and raisins. To top it off, walnut and banana pancakes, Vermont maple syrup, and a side of apple-smoked bacon. REAL bacon, not this English rasher bacon we've been eating for the last week. Butler, please bring the wheelbarrow to get me back to the villa...
Sad to leave Bali behind, it was time to head to the airport. While Bali itself is rather inexpensive, the airport gets you coming and going. $25 entry fee. $15 exit fee. I have no idea if the U.S. charges these lovely tariffs. But that's gotta be one way to pay off this new Health Care package.
The flight was 2.5 hours on Singapore Airlines, perhaps the most comfortable and relaxing airline on planet. Cool towels on takeoff. Good food. Sizable seats. Lovely air hostesses. I'm thinking this is what air travel was like in the US 60 years ago.
Much thanks to our friend Kerensa, who got us the employee rate hookup at the Fairmont Singapore. Very nice room, right across the street from the Raffles (of Singapore Sling fame). Last time in Singapore, we were a 20 minute walk to the MRT (subway). This time, about 5 minutes from room to train. Love it!
Let me first explain Singapore. Terri's family is originally from here. While her brother and parents are in the US, her extended family (including 90 y.o. grandmother remain in Singapore). So what better reason to enjoy air-conditioned everything, world-class eats, and of course, family giving us the grand tour?
Back to hotel location. I think Terri is most excited due to the fact that a "Breadtalk" is below in the underground mall. I'd be remiss by not sharing that basically ALL of Singapore is an underground mall. You can buy just about anything at every MRT station. While I'm disgusted with Terri and her excitement for foods such as pork floss (don't ask), she's in heaven. And I'm sure we'll go over the baggage weight limit upon return. Mostly with foods illegal for entry to the USA.
With just enough time for dinner, we have a long list of places to check off. We thought we'd start with a place we saw on a recent episode of Anthony Bourdain's "No Reservations." While it's probably not a good idea to take dining suggestions in Singapore from a white man, it appeared he was directed to this place from locals. And he raved about it. So we showed up to the Maxwell Food Center around 6:30, and it took us a while to find the right stall. The place was a good ol' fashioned hawker center, with the most random foods going in all directions. Want some pig organ soup? Got it. Shark head curry? Got it. So our destination was Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice. Chicken rice is a "Singaporean food" if there ever was one, although the place truly is a melting pot of Malay, Indonesian, Indian, SE Asian, and Chinese cuisine. So we spotted the stand, with Bourdain's blown-up picture duct taped to the sign. The affable Chinese man on the show was right in place. He immediately saw us as Bourdain fans (which is a stretch to say the least--far more fond of Andrew Zimmern). Sadly, he just gave out his last chicken rice literally 15 seconds before we arrived. It's 6:30 PM, and the place is sold out. Fantastic. I guess the place is the real deal. He was nice enough to give us a free sample of his famous rice, but we'll have to come back another day---for lunch.
Dinner ultimately was nasi lemak, a favorite of Terri's. It included a terribly dried out fish of some alien species. Terrible. But the coconut flavor rice was fantastic, as well as the sambal. I ordered a sweet potato/curry pastry, which was something I'll be tracking down again.
Back at the hotel, we decided dinner just didn't cut it. It took nothing but a glance down the street to find the nearest golden arches. You got it---Round 2 of the International McDonald's taste-test. Long story short, Singapore McDonald's cheeseburger was dead-on exact, as were the fries. They definitely had different buns than Bali, but I could see no difference than the US. Three things of note:
1. They had a Double Big Mac Sandwich. Must've been 6 inches high. No, I didn't dare.
2. A couple of Brits were there as well, doing their own version of the McDee's Challenge. Was interesting listening to them as well, as they had never in their life seen a standard Big Mac. They actually were taking photos of the menu photo.
3. Mc-Delivery. Lord, please let this stay in Asia. Both Bali and Singapore have guys on scooters that will deliver your McDonald's order to your home. Horrifying.
Sad to leave Bali behind, it was time to head to the airport. While Bali itself is rather inexpensive, the airport gets you coming and going. $25 entry fee. $15 exit fee. I have no idea if the U.S. charges these lovely tariffs. But that's gotta be one way to pay off this new Health Care package.
The flight was 2.5 hours on Singapore Airlines, perhaps the most comfortable and relaxing airline on planet. Cool towels on takeoff. Good food. Sizable seats. Lovely air hostesses. I'm thinking this is what air travel was like in the US 60 years ago.
Much thanks to our friend Kerensa, who got us the employee rate hookup at the Fairmont Singapore. Very nice room, right across the street from the Raffles (of Singapore Sling fame). Last time in Singapore, we were a 20 minute walk to the MRT (subway). This time, about 5 minutes from room to train. Love it!
Let me first explain Singapore. Terri's family is originally from here. While her brother and parents are in the US, her extended family (including 90 y.o. grandmother remain in Singapore). So what better reason to enjoy air-conditioned everything, world-class eats, and of course, family giving us the grand tour?
Back to hotel location. I think Terri is most excited due to the fact that a "Breadtalk" is below in the underground mall. I'd be remiss by not sharing that basically ALL of Singapore is an underground mall. You can buy just about anything at every MRT station. While I'm disgusted with Terri and her excitement for foods such as pork floss (don't ask), she's in heaven. And I'm sure we'll go over the baggage weight limit upon return. Mostly with foods illegal for entry to the USA.
With just enough time for dinner, we have a long list of places to check off. We thought we'd start with a place we saw on a recent episode of Anthony Bourdain's "No Reservations." While it's probably not a good idea to take dining suggestions in Singapore from a white man, it appeared he was directed to this place from locals. And he raved about it. So we showed up to the Maxwell Food Center around 6:30, and it took us a while to find the right stall. The place was a good ol' fashioned hawker center, with the most random foods going in all directions. Want some pig organ soup? Got it. Shark head curry? Got it. So our destination was Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice. Chicken rice is a "Singaporean food" if there ever was one, although the place truly is a melting pot of Malay, Indonesian, Indian, SE Asian, and Chinese cuisine. So we spotted the stand, with Bourdain's blown-up picture duct taped to the sign. The affable Chinese man on the show was right in place. He immediately saw us as Bourdain fans (which is a stretch to say the least--far more fond of Andrew Zimmern). Sadly, he just gave out his last chicken rice literally 15 seconds before we arrived. It's 6:30 PM, and the place is sold out. Fantastic. I guess the place is the real deal. He was nice enough to give us a free sample of his famous rice, but we'll have to come back another day---for lunch.
Dinner ultimately was nasi lemak, a favorite of Terri's. It included a terribly dried out fish of some alien species. Terrible. But the coconut flavor rice was fantastic, as well as the sambal. I ordered a sweet potato/curry pastry, which was something I'll be tracking down again.
Back at the hotel, we decided dinner just didn't cut it. It took nothing but a glance down the street to find the nearest golden arches. You got it---Round 2 of the International McDonald's taste-test. Long story short, Singapore McDonald's cheeseburger was dead-on exact, as were the fries. They definitely had different buns than Bali, but I could see no difference than the US. Three things of note:
1. They had a Double Big Mac Sandwich. Must've been 6 inches high. No, I didn't dare.
2. A couple of Brits were there as well, doing their own version of the McDee's Challenge. Was interesting listening to them as well, as they had never in their life seen a standard Big Mac. They actually were taking photos of the menu photo.
3. Mc-Delivery. Lord, please let this stay in Asia. Both Bali and Singapore have guys on scooters that will deliver your McDonald's order to your home. Horrifying.
Subscribe to:
Comments (Atom)